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Stripped a little insulation from the front 4 wires and soldered in my RCA cable. Installed power for the amp directly from the battery in the car, used the 10mm bolts to secure the terminals there. The only connection that was "rigged" was the remote wire - I temporarly jumped it from the B+ on the amp since I had not run it yet and wanted to test out the system. I am using a Fosgate mono amp (300M?) and the system whines like crazy when the car is running. The whine seems to be coming from the front speakers, like it's being backfed from the amp. When I unplug the RCA's the whine is gone.
Other details -
I have 2 guage main power wire to dist. blocks, then 4 to the amp.
The RCA cable is a shieded Monster cable and I ran it down the center consol to the back of the car. I am using a 10" fosgate HX2 sub.
Yep. Assuming everything's wired correctly, it's a classic ground loop. Use isolators or run a new ground from the head unit to the amp ground location.
Yep. Assuming everything's wired correctly, it's a classic ground loop. Use isolators or run a new ground from the head unit to the amp ground location.
I'll try the ground first as you suggest - I thought ground loop issues are there even if the car is off, and my whine is only there when the car is running.......
Do you just tap into the gnd wire at the radio and tie it into the ground at the amp?
I'll try the ground first as you suggest - I thought ground loop issues are there even if the car is off, and my whine is only there when the car is running.......
Do you just tap into the gnd wire at the radio and tie it into the ground at the amp?
Normally you're only going to hear a ground loop/alternator whine when the engine is turning. I clipped the head's ground wire and tied it off to only my new ground for the amp to eliminate multiple ground points.
Cut it at a convenient point where it can be re-spliced later, and run it ONLY to the amp ground location.
When ground loops exist, they exist whether the car is running or not. When the car is running, you're hearing the alternator's AC generation sneaking into the audio path provided by the multiple ground potentials.
I am not looking forward to pulling the dash apart again!!
Oh well - looks like no other choice. When I cut the gnd, will I loose power to the radio and need to get it unlocked?
Thanks for the help!
You will not lock the radio. I've had my NAV unit disconnected completely and the negative post on the battery disconnected more times than I can remember at this point and never had any trouble.
here is what i have started doing on every C6 after having alt wine issues on a few cars. I connect my 4 positive rca leads like normal, but off the rcas i take all the negatives combine them together and ground it to a screw on the headunit chassis, and no noise at all. Ive done my last 3 C6s this way, and ive had to do this on someone elses car after tehre install because they had horriable noise and this fixed the problem
thanks for the reply... just trying to visualize this: going into the 4 rca jacks that are routed back to the amps, you've got the 4 positive leads tapped from the hu low level outs, and you've got 4 "negative" leads that are summed and connected to the hu chassis? do you just leave the 4 negative leads tapped from the hu low level outs hanging, or are those also attached into the rca jacks?