Hello:

Just finished my install and had no remote turn-on power from the PAC-AOEM. Talked with Peripheral and they "have seen issues with the remote turn-on circuit in some of these units...?" What the hell is that supposed to mean?

I figured out that the remote turn on wasn't working because the amp wouldn't power up. I jumped the remote lead at the amp with the 12V power wire and everything worked. I then ran the remote turn on wire to the 12V switched (yellow wire) under the passenger foot well and everything works until I turn off the car. No RAP.

I spliced the PAC green remote turn-on wire into the dark green wire (pin 8) on the black plug from the radio. I see just about 6V there whether the PAC unit is hooked to it or not. (I know the RAP is working like it should because my rear speakers stay on when I turn the key off).

If I didn't get power from the PAC remote turn-on to start with, I think the box is bad as Peripheral said. Does everyone here agree? (By the way, no one I talked to at PAC was much help at all with the problem). What's weird is everything else works...Fade, Treble, Balance, etc., as well as all of the speakers. I'm running new components and a sub.

By the way, at the risk of sounding stupid, where is the I/P fuse box that I see some referring to here ? It seems I might be able to pick up an RAP wire there? Is there an easy way to tap into it? I read a post on here somewhere that an individual had a similar problem and was told by PAC that only year 2002 and up C5's could keep RAP with the AOEM...? Anyone familiar with that?

Looking forward to getting pics of the completed install to everyone, but I want to wait till I can put the damn carpet back in...

Thanks Guys...

Rossi

 

The radio is what generates the 12v RAP power. If you used an in-line splice to tap the pin 8 wire on the radio side of the pac and used that as the amp turn on instead of the wire on the harness side of the pac, you should get what you need.

 

Didn't work, Mark:

I did splice into that green wire as you said and initially I had ZERO power to the amp. I was told by Peripheral that the green wire from the PAC was the same circuit as the blue turn-on wire coming out of the other end of the unit. (They do both say "remote turn on.")

Then I took the amp remote turn-on wire direct to that 12V source and everything worked. (Even without removing the green wire). There is only 6V at that green wire, but what's confusing is I think that is correct. When I turn off my ignition, the stock speakers (still powered by the H/U) remain on until I open a door...

I have a new box coming tomorrow...Maybe I'll check back then if no one can figure this one out...

Thanks,

Rossi

 

Are you sure you're on the right wire? Look at the OEM wire harness attached to the car, see which wire on the PAC harness that goes between there and the radio lines up to the dark green wire at pin 8 of the black plug, that's the wire you need to tap for your RAP 12v signal. Splice into it on the radio side of the PAC, disconnect the blue wire coming out of the PAC. Ignore whatever the directions say for now, use your own eyes to see which wire in the PAC setup lines up with pin 8 of the black plug.

If that wire doesn't have 12v when the radio is on, try cutting the wire that splits off and goes to the PAC (in case the interface is shorted out). If it still doesn't have 12v then your radio has to be the problem, since it is what generates the 12v.

The stock speakers are powered by the radio itself, they are independant of the rap signal.

If you only have 6v at the green wire, you'll only have 6v at the i/p fuse box, since the green wire behind the radio is what supplies the wire at the fuse box.

Worst case, your radio is only putting out 6v instead of 12. If that is the problem you can probably hook up a relay with a 5v coil and use 12v constant through the contacts as your amp trigger

 

From what I can see, Mark, there is only one dark green wire on a black plug at the back of the radio. It's also the one that is at a number 8 location and that's the one I used. The only other dark green wire on that side of the radio is on a white plug...

I see what you're saying about the radio possibly being the problem, but everything worked until I wired in the PAC and the rest of the equipment. (Everything usually does work until you screw with it)!

I'll try again tomorrow, hopefully with another box, and see what happens. If I can't figure it out, I'll wire the PAC in, use the 12V switched in/near the fuse box, and keep researching this. Or spend another $135.00 and get a Window Valet..?

Thanks,

Rossi

 

Mark:

Forgot to ask...

Why no power to the amp when I first hooked up the PAC? Doesn't that point to a problem with the unit? The only way I can get 12V to the amp is to run the remote turn-on wire independent of the PAC...

Rossi

 

What did you use it for?

When you get the new PAC, start over with your wires in the dash. Do this:
-disconnect the amp turn on lead and anything other than the RCA plugs that are connected to the old pac. Leave the two big plugs connected between the radio and oem harness.
-before opening the box for the new pac, figure out which wire going TO THE PAC BOX is connected to the green pin 8 wire of the old pac. Cut that wire so it no longer connects to the box.
-take the amp turn on wire going to your amp and splice it into the harness side of the wire that connects to pin 8 (don't do anything on the actual green wire, do it on the wire in the new harness that connects between the radio and the original harness).

That should let the pac supply the audio signals, but will have the radio directly connected to the amp trigger.

You can't use the rap wire in my post #9 (6v at radio = 6v at fuse box), only the switched pigtail wire (non-rap) would work.

What are you using as the 12v source? The green wire or something else?

Either the pac is bad, or you have something connected wrong. I have to admit, at this point I have no idea what you connected where

 

Looking at this picture...



What did you connect the loose greenish wire on the inlet side of the pac box to?

 

That wire is connected to pin 8, dark green wire, black plug on radio harness. There's a sticker on the wire that says exactly where to hook it up, so I don't see where else it could go. The blue wire shown in the photo is the remote turn on wire. I wired it to the remote turn on at the amp. With everything wired like this I get no power at the amp.

I took the blue remote turn on wire and ran it to the yellow wire under the passenger foot well and everything works...except RAP...Hope that makes sense.

 

if u dont have 12 volts on the darkgreen wire at the radio then u either have wrong wire or something is wrong with the radio

all the pac does is pass the remote signal straight through

 

Run a wire directly from the amp trigger terminal to the dark green wire at pin 8. However, instead of using the actual green wire in the oem harness, splice into the wire in the pac harness that matches up to it (it's hard to tell by the pics avail online, but it looks like that wire is white?).

If that doesn't get your amp to come on (and stay on with RAP), then it's almost definitely the radio.

 

with pacaddvet1 there is no wire that matches up to it. you splice a wire from the pac to the dark green oem turn on wire and then on the other side of the pac it gives u a blue wire to hook to ur turn on wire.

 

Greg:

If I plug everything back in to the way it was prior to the PAC being installed, including one Bose speaker back into the harness on the doors, and then turn the radio on and off again and RAP works, would that prove anything?

Rossi

 

u dont need to even install a bose speaker in the door it has nothing to do with rap either

rap turns the radio on and off, then the radio remote wire dk green triggers the bose amps in the doors, bose sound processor (maybe?) and antenna (unless a z06). IMO you need to get a voltmeter and make sure u are at the correct dark green wire behind the radio if i recall there are multiple in the main big plug it should show 12 volts with radio on and go to 0 a few sec after radio goes off

 

Greg:

I checked that green wire at pin 8...6 volts. Radio is still on when I turn the car off so I'm not sure what's up. I'm going to check it upstream of the radio tomorrow and see what I get there. I'm also going to check the rest of the harness and see if there's another 12 volt wire in there.

Peripheral said today it's possible that the factory radio would work with 6 volts and not aftermarket equipment? They also said that I could buy a LVT2 box that would convert that six volts into 12 for $15.00...When I try the new box tomorrow and come up with the same thing, maybe that's what I'll do...

Stumped here for the moment brother...!

Rossi

 

radio is gonna stay on till u open a door thats how its supposed to work

are you 100% sure you are checking the proper wire, multiple ppl have had issues with this and its cause they were using the wrong wire.

 

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6.../120701858.jpg

#3 is remote

 

Yep. That's the one. 8 pins over from the left side of the harness, looking INTO the radio...

 

if thats the case something is wrong with ur radio or something is shorting somewhere causing a voltage drop.

 

So, Greg:

Back to my thought on hooking everything back up...If I remove the PAC and then hook up the Bose speakers and the rest of the factory equipment works as advertised...?