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I need some help from you guys. I have read a number of threads thru the search on this and now I’m really confused. So humbly I’m asking for help. As much as I know about mechanics I will easily yield to you guys on this subject.
I have a 2002 Z06; I would like to be able to use my Ipod in the car. After reading page after page of threads on this subject I have decided that is the wrong direction to go. Why spend $100 to $150 to be able to do that, wonder about electrical drain just to be able to use the Ipod. One thread I read recommended just upgrading the head unit instead to spending the money just to be able to use your Ipod. I agree with that logic. I also really need Bluetooth as I can not shift the Z and talk on the phone at the same time.
I’m from the 70’s era so my only choice for a head unit is Pioneer. I looked on Pioneer’s web site and it looks like the DEH-P6100BT or the Crutchfield’s signature model the DEH-P610BT will work fine for my needs. I think I will need an adaptor to make it fit in the stock opening in the dash. Is that right?
Speakers are where I really get confused. I saw a picture in a thread of my type of speaker setup. Looked like a speaker and a small amp right next to it. So one of my questions is, when upgrading the head unit can you use the stock speaker wires for an aftermarket coaxial type speaker? Can you use a Pioneer coaxial speaker and mount them in the doors and still use the stock Bose speaker cover so everything still looks stock? I’m sure I have 4 speakers but looking at Crutchfield’s / Pioneer’s web site I’m even confused about that. Any information will be appreciated.
I've had a good experience with Pioneer products and see no reason to avoid them. I just purchased a brand new sat/dvd unit (x910bt) for $422 after $100 rebate including shipping and tax. To me this is a smoking deal, nothing you can buy in that price range can compare. Even most of the used units go for more than that.
Last edited by gregm999; Feb 26, 2010 at 03:50 PM.
I installed a new shifter in my Z06 a couple of weeks ago. I had to remove the radio / ac bezel to be able to remove the shifter. So pulling that bezel is no big deal anymore. I could have had the stereo out easy. I just need help with speakers & wires.
To put in an aftermarket radio WITH THE STOCK SPEAKERS you'd need an ROEM-Vet1 OR GMCRV2 as the interface adapter.
You also need a mounting plate. The cheap plastic kit works great and centers the new radio in the big opening. If you want to get fancy, try a lighted bracket. I had the Blue Corvette version above my radio in the C5.
That would play the new radio through your stock speakers. An easy upgrade to that is just replacing the 3.5" door twiddlers to get better highs. Many have been happy with Polk db351 or Boston Acoustic S35.
If you want to install an external amp with component speakers in the doors, you really need to add a sub in the back. The stock door subs aren't anything special, but without them there is essentially no bass.
markcz, that's great info. I've been reading a number of post from you in the search of this forum. I've seen the speaker adapters that some have bought for the openings in the front doors. Does someone have a pattern in pdf of the piece? The interfaces that you listed, thanks again, anyway here's my question on that. By using that interface can you use the stock speaker wires or is the interface only for the power/high side supply just to make the head unit work and it has nothing to do with the speakers?
hattitude, thanks for the link to DD, I had found them from the search function. I was first looking at their Ipod interface for the stock unit but I don't think I will go that way.
To put in an aftermarket radio WITH THE STOCK SPEAKERS you'd need an ROEM-Vet1 OR GMCRV2 as the interface adapter.
You also need a mounting plate. The cheap plastic kit works great and centers the new radio in the big opening. If you want to get fancy, try a lighted bracket. I had the Blue Corvette version above my radio in the C5.
That would play the new radio through your stock speakers. An easy upgrade to that is just replacing the 3.5" door twiddlers to get better highs. Many have been happy with Polk db351 or Boston Acoustic S35.
If you want to install an external amp with component speakers in the doors, you really need to add a sub in the back. The stock door subs aren't anything special, but without them there is essentially no bass.
Can you not go with the accessory valet as well if reusing the Bose speakers?
I haven't seen any pdf templates for the C5 door speakers. It's pretty easy to make your own bracket by tracing the stock mount in your car now.
If you go with aftermarket components on new plates, that would imply an external amp. If you're using an external amp with a new radio and all new speakers/sub, the only interface you'd need is a GMRAP OR Accessory Valet. With all new equipment you don't have to run new speaker wires, but it is MUCH easier, and sounds better if you do install new wires. It's super easy to run wires in C5/C6.
The two interfaces I linked to above would only be required if you kept the stock door subs and twiddlers. That would use the stock speaker wires.
Simply put:
New radio with stock speakers = ROEM with stock wires (new 3.5" twiddlers optional)
New radio, new speakers, sub in trunk, external amp = GMRAP with all new wires
Not that I'm trying to confuse you even more, but the GMRAP or AV are actually optional. If you don't want to keep the radio going until you open a door (Retained Accessory Power feature), you could use the switched accessory wire in the passenger footwell for free
Not that I'm trying to confuse you even more, but the GMRAP or AV are actually optional. If you don't want to keep the radio going until you open a door (Retained Accessory Power feature), you could use the switched accessory wire in the passenger footwell for free
Not to hijack the OP. But if I stick with the AVIC-Z2 with stock Bose system, but also want to keep RAP: I believe I need two interface modules correct? what interface modules do I need?
All the GMRAP or AV do is turn the radio on/off with RAP. Everything else is up to you. They are only really an option if you're gutting all of the stock stuff.
Originally Posted by andrewdonald1
... if I stick with the AVIC-Z2 with stock Bose system ... want to keep RAP ... what interface modules do I need?
Just one of either the ROEM or CRV2. They are the same thing by two different companies. They control the radio coming on with the car and off with RAP, they send the proper signals to the stock speakers and door sub, and are used to connect the wire from the new radio to the proper pin on the stock harness in order to power the stock door subs when the radio is on.
All the GMRAP or AV do is turn the radio on/off with RAP. Everything else is up to you. They are only really an option if you're gutting all of the stock stuff.
Just one of either the ROEM or CRV2. They are the same thing by two different companies. They control the radio coming on with the car and off with RAP, they send the proper signals to the stock speakers and door sub, and are used to connect the wire from the new radio to the proper pin on the stock harness in order to power the stock door subs when the radio is on.
Are the wiring diagrams available on the net for the GMRAP and the cheaper of the two ROEM or CRV2? I want to start working on the single line wiring diagram that I need if I go with stock Bose speakers and my AVIC
Mark, can't I just have a new Stereo unit and coaxial door speakers with new wires and not have a external power amp and sub? Then also have new rear speakers and just have them powered by the head unit. I really don't want an external amp.
Mark, can't I just have a new Stereo unit and coaxial door speakers with new wires and not have a external power amp and sub? Then also have new rear speakers and just have them powered by the head unit. I really don't want an external amp.
Yes, that is very possible, and would be easy to hook up, however...
1) Your low-end bass would be non-existant. It would almost definitely sound better if you keep the stock door subs and just replace the 3.5" door twiddlers with 2-way aftermarket speakers. [with this option, the internal radio amp is still powering the speakers, you just have 3.5" speakers and a sub in the doors instead of the 6.5" aftermarket setup] The rear speakers in a C5Z are 5.25", you could replace them with aftermarkets also if you want to (there are much better and more costly options, but I'm happy with these for the rear fill in my C6)
2) Most radios don't put out enough power with their internal amp to properly drive a good set of aftermarket 6.5" speakers.
Mark - "To put in an aftermarket radio WITH THE STOCK SPEAKERS you'd need an ROEM-Vet1 OR GMCRV2 as the interface adapter."
Ok, let me ask. If you just get a new head unit and use one of these interface's. Does this interface go between the GM plug that went in the back of the Bose unit and the new unit? If that is so then there is no other wiring that is required, other than the antenna?