I am looking to add a JL Audio HD900 or a XD 400 and 600. The install shop has informed me that I need a 10 farad cap for the install. Is anyone else using JL amps and did you notice any headlights dimming, etc.? I want to do things right, but I did not win the PowerBall last week.

Thanks in advance!

 

You're fine without a cap under normal conditions. If you sit at idle for extremely long periods of time with the radio cranked way up, then you may eventually get to a point that you might have a low voltage issue.

 

you dont need a cap for that setup or an extra battery. a good battery and big3 is plenty

 

I agree with everyone else. Usually there is nothing that can be accomplished with a cap that cannot be done better with a second battery. However, as said before, a big 3 and a good battery should work for you. Unless you are really jamming-out in a parking lot with the car idling for a long time.

 

I'll be the odd ball.

I have done the Big 3, and my battery is relatively new. I do notice headlight dimming when I crank up the music at night and the song has a heavy bass line. I'm running an Arc Audio XDi805 and a 10" JL woofer in the back. Wiring is good.

I've been wondering whether my car is the issue, or the other guys on this forum just don't listen to the same type of music or as loud. Cap is easy to install. As is the Big 3. So I would suggest you go without one, then add as needed.

In case you didn't know, "big 3" refers to adding supplemental wiring to the electrical system. A batt. neg > chassis, chassis > engine , and alternator > batt. pos

 

I have a HD900 in my 2008 with the original factory battery, no problems at all. I have not done any electrical upgrades. I don't have any issues with dimming or flickering lights.

 

Use a Kinetic 600, they are small and way out perform a 10 farad cap... and yes you should use something, as a new battery and big 3 dont accomplish strain and drain on a start battery or the electrical.. you still have the pull... it your total amp draw at load (from amps) pulls more than your factory is capable of producing then what do you eventually think will happen. And no its not warranted from GM.. If you want to do is absolutely correct, then install a secondary battery (again i suggest just a hc600 will do) and install a battery isolator, then your car stereo battery will never affect your primary battery (start battery).. That is the absolute CORRECT way to do it, it you want to not go through that much, then simply parrallel your start and secondary battery. And please before anyone starts to question my references or knowlege, ive been both a shop owner and competor years back, and this is my living, and have quite a nice reputation in the DFW area, not to mention many a custom build and rep builder in the past, specifically Orion.. This is just advice.

EDIT: I reread your post, at quick glance i assumed you were putting in 3 amps, i guess this is not the case.. if you are running a hd900, i believe a 5 ch. amp your amp draw will be around 60 amps at draw.. if your running a 400 and 600, you have tad more power on the sub side and your draw runs up to 90 amps at that point.. either way your under gms alternator (which not sure on your vette but is 135-140 factory i assume) but also remember this is stereo draw only with nothing else running, so with other accessories then your total draw on the car will be more... The sub out put is where you will get your deep draws, and if your going to maximize the ohm load on the sub side. The main purpose of your cap or extra battery is to store your energy or reserve power.. with either, your bass notes will hit and that draw will come from whats inline first (your secondary storage source), if hooked to primary battery only, it will draw from that first.. remember you dont need a battery to drive a car, just to start it... so all the bass and goodies directly pulls from that battery, then when weakend pulls the available power from the electrical system.. with a secondary like a cap or small hc600 (cap killer they say) power is pulled form it, and the electrical instantly charges it, and its quick, and it minimizes the draw and potential damage to your primary battery.. without a secondary, one day, your car just doesnt start bacause its been weakend enough it wont charge by your electrical.. now the purpose of a isolator on the secondary is simple, it still works the same way, but the current draw is limited to the secondary, it doesnt feed back through the primary start battery, insuring if the items on the secondary go completely dead, then your primary is still fine, and the isolator still charges both batteries at same time

Ive rambled and maybe confused some trying to make this quick..

My suggestion, if your ok with the power on the 5 ch. i would go that route, as its actually fairly efficient, and probably no secondary is needed, if you go with 2 amps like you have in option 2, also more than likely no secondary is needed... Me personally i like to run a HC 600 on most anything i do, but dont always recommend it to a customer unless hes hitting in the 120 amp range, or unless they like to simply dog on the system at high volume and really work the amps.. or if i felt you were anything like me with your vette, and liked the upgrades and etc and i see you have done alot for example, supercharges, add ons, etc., and were doing a 2 amp system, at even 90-100 amps, then i would recommend it, as it would be less strain.. but i woul recommend the battery before a cap.. just my .02 cents worth.. good luck either way.

 

^ Lots of good info there. I'd definitely recommend running the hc600 or comparable second battery instead of a cap. Of course, there is always the option of a higher amp alternator. Your stock one (assuming you are driving a 2010 Grand Sport) is a 145 amp unit.

 

thanks for the input, wasnt sure what the vette alt. was.. good info to know... hc600 you should be able to find $60-$99 in that range.. a used one from a rep. source could be had at a deal as well..

Kinetik HC600 Power Cell
More powerful than 100 1 farad caps! Extreme power in a small package. Mount near your amplifier for tons of power reinforcement. Easily starts a V8 engine!

Specifications

Weight: 14lbs
Ah: 20
Dimensions: 7"x3"x6.5"
Suggested Retail: $199.99

Common Specifications

AGM Technology
Sealed Non-Spillable Design
Mount In Any Position
Ultra Low ESR
More Plates For Stronger Energy Density
Higher Voltage Under Load
Tightly Packed Cells
Superior Heat & Vibration Resistance

 

even though the Arc is a Hybrid, it has less power than the JLhd900 on all channels and has 50% more pull on the amperage than the JL. Arc are some great amps, just not real efficient.