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Well, i went and got me a diff amp to power my front polk components . Ill be bridging the chanells 3-4 [ rear ] on new amp to power my down firing 12 pioneer sub.
ONLY question i have is on my HEAD UNIT [ PIONEER ] it has 4 RCA out, 2 for front and 2 rear, and also a left & right output which is sub.. So im going to bridge amp's 3-4 output to run sub,, I know you only use amp or deck to adjust filters, so im thinking i run all my sterio [4] outputs to rca inputs on amp, or do i use sub output on deck to 3-4 input on amp. ??..
Oh my head unit is the AVH-X3500BHS, and i have a pioneer GM-D8604 amp, rated at 100 watts RMS @ 4 Ohms per chanell,and bridged it's 300 x 2.--- which should be fine for my single voice coil 4 ohm pioneer shallow sub part # is
Pioneer TS-SW3001S4
Last edited by carls2004; May 21, 2014 at 06:52 PM.
Reason: forgot info
Run HU front RCA's to amp ch A, set to HPF, Hz **** around 80-100.
Run both HU sub RCA's to amp ch B, set to LPF, Hz **** around 80-100.
Ignore HU rear RCA's, but tape over ends to make sure they don't find a way to short out behind radio.
Once HU settings and amp gains are set properly that should sound good
OK, So all the HPF, and Hz settings are set at the amp, Right ?. I gotta look at my deck, but if i have it set to sub on, wont it wanna control some of the settings.. Dont have car with me this min to check my deck.
OK, So all the HPF, and Hz settings are set at the amp, Right ?. I gotta look at my deck, but if i have it set to sub on, wont it wanna control some of the settings.. Dont have car with me this min to check my deck.
I use both. Use HU settings for actual controls (so you can adjust on the fly if needed) but also set amp ***** just a bit off since they're not as accurate.
If HU front HPF at 80, set amp **** around 60. If HU sub LPF at 80, set amp **** around 100.
After setting gain ***** to limit distortion you can experiment with the actual filter settings to see where they blend the best. Sometimes exactly the same is best, sometimes there's overlap, sometimes it sounds best with a gap if the cutoff isn't very steep.
I use both. Use HU settings for actual controls (so you can adjust on the fly if needed) but also set amp ***** just a bit off since they're not as accurate.
If HU front HPF at 80, set amp **** around 60. If HU sub LPF at 80, set amp **** around 100.
After setting gain ***** to limit distortion you can experiment with the actual filter settings to see where they blend the best. Sometimes exactly the same is best, sometimes there's overlap, sometimes it sounds best with a gap if the cutoff isn't very steep.
OK, I went and looked at my audio settings, when i turn sub on on deck. Here is what i see that i can adjust..
[phase] , [ level -24-0], [freqrency 50-125 Hz ]-- Then there is this group of setting's,[ HPF] [Bass boost.]
So if im correct- leave phase at normal.--set level at ??, and freqency ??
So set HPF at 80.And bass boost to my taste.. So my manuall says the cut off frequency has settings of 50hz-125hz and says ,only frequencys lower than tho;s in selected range are out putted
So if im correct,,, frequency is the LPF,, BUT LEVEL in my manuall says thats output level of sub, - so not sure on that
Last edited by carls2004; May 21, 2014 at 09:43 PM.
Reason: more info
HU = Sub output on, start LPF at 80, level at 0, boost off. Front HPF at 80. EQ on flat or off.
amp = sub on LPF, 100 Hz. Fronts on HPF, 60 Hz.
Play a 50 Hz test tone on 'repeat' (or a song with good low bass). Set both amp gains at 0, HU volume at 75%, turn up amp gain until you hear 50 Hz tone go from smooth rumble to a nasty clipping fart sound (distortion), back off just a tad. That's your sub amp gain adjustment.
Play a song that is your most common type of music. Adjust front amp gain up until it blends well with sub.
That's as quick and simple as setup can get and still have it sound great.
Once gains are set, tweek HU settings (Hz, EQ, boost....) to make it sound best to you.
HU = Sub output on, start LPF at 80, level at 0, boost off. Front HPF at 80. EQ on flat or off.
amp = sub on LPF, 100 Hz. Fronts on HPF, 60 Hz.
Play a 50 Hz test tone on 'repeat' (or a song with good low bass). Set both amp gains at 0, HU volume at 75%, turn up amp gain until you hear 50 Hz tone go from smooth rumble to a nasty clipping fart sound (distortion), back off just a tad. That's your sub amp gain adjustment.
Play a song that is your most common type of music. Adjust front amp gain up until it blends well with sub.
That's as quick and simple as setup can get and still have it sound great.
Once gains are set, tweek HU settings (Hz, EQ, boost....) to make it sound best to you.
Thanks,, Ive been playing around with adj and i think i got it best its gonna be for now,, untill i get that better amp in the car.. Mine thats in there now is under powered for the sub with it bridged,, so im sure this makes it that much harder..-- I had to set boost up all the way on the deck to really get sub to do anything close to what i think it should....Hopefully new pioneer amp that i should have tommorow will be easier to adjust... AS of now it seems i can put HPF & LPF on amp at any setting and dont see a diff. Again, i think its all cause im under powering the sub with the amp i got in car now.. Its only 75 watts rms @ 4 ohms per channell, so if im correct im only got 155 rms feeding my 300 watts rms single voice coil 4 ohm sub.. mmmmmmm, Now that i rechecked,, its a 400 watt rms 4 ohm sub, whooooo am i under powered , whoooops
Last edited by carls2004; May 22, 2014 at 07:43 PM.
Reason: more info
I am running the Pioneer GM-D9601 which is way overkill for what I need, but the price was right. I do love the wired remote for the volume. When you're driving along and find the bass is too much, it is easy to change that, or vice-versa.
I am running the Pioneer GM-D9601 which is way overkill for what I need, but the price was right. I do love the wired remote for the volume. When you're driving along and find the bass is too much, it is easy to change that, or vice-versa.
From what i read it sounds like a nice amp. How many sub's u running and the ohms ?? if i may ask. I suppose to have mine today but is the Pioneer GM-D8604. and im bridging the rear channel to my 4 ohm single flat pioneer sub
I am running a single 4 ohm JL Audio sub. I would love to have more, but these cars have no room in them and we need space for the shotguns and ammo when we go do Sporting Clays...............
I am running a single 4 ohm JL Audio sub. I would love to have more, but these cars have no room in them and we need space for the shotguns and ammo when we go do Sporting Clays...............
Ugggghh,, I got the new pioneer amp in, and right channel, [ A ] IS BAD....
Doubled checked my connections to. Right side has hardly any sound and a buzz now. I have to adjuust balance 80 % to the right to even it out.. I doubled checked hook up too. So then i just reversed my left/right leads on output side of amp to confirm its the amp. yuk.. Just called sonic and they are emailing me a return R.A. Stinks as the low price amp i had in there,, that alot of people would bash--- was tho CEA compliant at 75 watts per channell at 4 ohms.- And i get a new popular one, and its bad...
Last edited by carls2004; May 23, 2014 at 06:25 PM.
So i was wondering, when i get my new pioneer amp in that is to replace defective one that did come, and is rated at 300 watts rms bridged at 4 ohms .and think max output bridge is 600... Was wondering if a class D amp at same rms 300[ min ],, would have any advantage ??? than mine that is bridged for 300 rms.@ 4 ohms.
Reason is, i was thinking of adding a class D amp, but if no advantage over what i got coming and has same min RMS @ 4 ohm's should i bother getting. ????
Only thing diff of the class D amp i may add, is the max RMS that its rated at , 1500 [ matches sub]
Last edited by carls2004; May 29, 2014 at 06:56 PM.
The RMS rating at the resistance of your sub is what matters. If both are 300wRMS at 4ohms, then no advantage.
I can't recall ever seeing an amp with 300wRMS and 1500wMax at the same ohm rating. Are you sure the 1500wMax isn't at 1ohm.
Only advantage of class D over others is that the amp is usually a good bit smaller. AB would 'sound better' to most people, but on a sub it's hard to tell the difference.
The RMS rating at the resistance of your sub is what matters. If both are 300wRMS at 4ohms, then no advantage.
I can't recall ever seeing an amp with 300wRMS and 1500wMax at the same ohm rating. Are you sure the 1500wMax isn't at 1ohm.
Only advantage of class D over others is that the amp is usually a good bit smaller. AB would 'sound better' to most people, but on a sub it's hard to tell the difference.
yea, i think i had that max wrong markcz, just checked pioneer site. Model of amp was D-8601
And i guess the max wouldnt matter much would it to mine that is bridged,--- As how often do we really hiit the max..
I think the place that sold me the low profile pioneer sub is looking at the max of amp and sub, and the D-8601 Matches the sub max power closer,,they sold me [pretty dead on.]. But again, how often do any of us push our amp//sub combo to the max, Seldom if im correct..
Last edited by carls2004; May 29, 2014 at 08:49 PM.
I used an older brother of that sub being fed by 350wRMS for a while, you're gonna like it (my old sub & box available for $75 shipped if anyone wants it)
I don't think you'd notice a difference at all between the bridged amp you have now and the single channel you're considering, so I'd save the money and just use the one you already own.
I used an older brother of that sub being fed by 350wRMS for a while, you're gonna like it (my old sub & box available for $75 shipped if anyone wants it)
I don't think you'd notice a difference at all between the bridged amp you have now and the single channel you're considering, so I'd save the money and just use the one you already own.
Hey guys, stay away from pioneer amp GM-D8604, IM on my second replacment.. right channel bad.. pioneer needs to address this..
ANd my cheap jenson 760-4 is back in and sounds and works great. but not enough power with it bridged for my sub. Or i keep it..
Hey guys, stay away from pioneer amp GM-D8604, IM on my second replacment.. right channel bad.. pioneer needs to address this..
ANd my cheap jenson 760-4 is back in and sounds and works great. but not enough power with it bridged for my sub. Or i keep it..
whooops i goofed. I went to add my bigger ground and pos wires today, as replacment amp comes tomorow Hifonics BRX640.4 Brutus Vehicle Multi-Channel , And found i had bad connection at my ground end when i put on term. -- Now i see my pioneer amp is fine.
mmmmmmmm do i keep the pioneer GM-D8604, OR return it and use the Hifonic's ???. They are almost ident spec's. but pioneer has 100 watt rms @4 ohms per channell and matches my polk compone in my doors.
Pioneer seems to sound pretty clean signal
Last edited by carls2004; Jun 6, 2014 at 05:07 PM.
I have never had any issues with Pioneer amps. Can't say the same thing about some Kenwoods I have used in the past. When they popped, they took the speakers AND head unit with them! Never saw that happen before. Switching supplies can do strange things when they decide to go though............
I have never had any issues with Pioneer amps. Can't say the same thing about some Kenwoods I have used in the past. When they popped, they took the speakers AND head unit with them! Never saw that happen before. Switching supplies can do strange things when they decide to go though............
I just got my Hifonics amp BRX640.4 ,A/B AMP
My question is do i keep that or my current pioneer D8604 that i fixed and is working now. [ me bad, ground cable] - Their almost same spec's.
Pioneer- 100 W,RMS @ 4OHM. 300 X 2 BRIDGED.
Hifonics- 80 W,RMS @ 4OHM. 350 X 2 BRIDGED
Pioneer fits nice, as i have it tucked behind my waterfall in convert.- The hifonics brutus amp is pretty BIG,
So any sugestions guys would be great.--And im running a pioneer inclosed down firing sub in back TS-SW3001S4
And Polk DB6501 IN Doors..