racebum

didn't you buy hertz? that's what they do in car. in an enclosure in a room in a stereo shop they sound much different than in car

2-3khz is probably what you're hearing. eq that down, see if it helps

Homer3D

Yeah I picked up the hertz. The EQ was set to flat and the mids were painful. I adjusted the EQ and it sounds much better. I will check what I have 2-3k set at when I get back to the car.

racebum

somewhere between 1khz and 3.5khz is where our ears are most sensitive to hard E sounds, shrill, nails on the chalkboard type stuff. it's also the hardest area to get right in most any sound system

Homer3D

Thanks for the tip. On the 13 band EQ, I dipped the bar between 1khz and 4khz and it sounds much better. I can finally turn it up without it hurting. Now it was loud and clear versus sounding like the singer is yelling at me.

Rob 02

A lot of speakers have to break in. At first the suspension is stiff and needs to loosen up. They might sound better after a couple days.

Homer3D

Spent some time today working on the steering wheel controls. The iDatalink doesn't seem to want to play nice. Programed it twice and tried 2 different units. The buttons do not do what the programming saying it will do. Switched it out for the RP5-GM11 and that seems to work a little better but the hang up button doesn't hang up, it mutes the radio. Reprogrammed mutliple times and still mutes. All the rest of the buttons work like they should. I have placed an order for the RP4-GM11 to see if that works better as I want 2 functions per button (quick press plus 'press and hold').

Rob 02

Thanks for the update. I have a C6Z wheel that I may use on my C5 at some point in the future.

Homer3D

Finally got around to replacing the RP5-GM11 with the RP4-GM11. Programming the steering wheel controls work exactly like they should. It is possible I had a bad RP5 because, not only could I not get the programming to do what I want, the chimes never worked. Now with the RP4, everything is working.

Driving around today I felt everything sounded better. I am not sure if that is just in my head. I did, however, introduce a little bit of whine. I picked up a couple of ground loop isolators so that should be an easy fix.

JDebler

Bringing this one back up (found by searching). Is it safe to say that the iDatalink Maestro RR just isn't compatible with our cars? I ask because I am interested in one for mine.

Homer3D

Hard to say if it is compatible or not. I can only say I could not get it to work properly with my 2013 GS. I had much better luck with the RP4-GM11.

I also found there is no benefit to using the iDatalink because even it I did get it to work, it would just be for steering wheel controls. You will not get all the other cool things iDatalink offers, link displaying vehicle information. So with the corvette you aren't really getting the "Maestro RR" but the "Maestro SW" instead.

JDebler

That's a bummer. I really wanted some cool gauges to add to my new head unit. I guess I'll just keep the PAC harness that I already have. Thanks for the confirmation!