C5 car audio advice.
07-06-2017, 01:01 PM
#1
C5 car audio advice.
Ok, guys. Here's what I got going. Currently I have just a plain ole stock Bose setup in a 1998 Corvette convertible. Here is what I would like to do. Replace the stock deck with an aftermarket Pioneer single din. Which I have already picked up. Replace the door speakers(ditch the 8 inch subwoofer and midrange)with an aftermarket component set. Which I do not have yet. And I have picked up some Pioneer coaxials for the rear. I also have a Punch 3 sub I would like to install in a 12 inch flush box. The sub is 6.66 inches mounting depth while the box is 7 1/16 I believe with about 1 cu ft of air space. It should work and sound ok. Provided the magnet isn't too big and it doesn't fit because of that. But If that happens, I can just get another good sub.
I have a 1100 watt Hifonics BRX amp for the sub, but being i'ts only going to be in a 2 ohm load, it will only push 700 watts but should be perfect for that Punch 3. I would like to pick up another BRX for the amping the highs in the rear and the doors. I know some guys may knock on Hifonics but it's what I got and I'd like to stick to one brand of amp with almost the same look for vanity reasons too.
What I need to know guys. I know that I will have to run all new wiring . But what I need to know is exactly what I need in accessories to get this done. Here is what I know so far.
Need single din dash kit
antenna adapter
GM wiring harness
Door adapters for the component set
pig tail adapters (6 total, or does the componet tweeters bypass that?)
4 guage amp kit
Distribution block
Flush box for the Punch 3
Current Hifonics amp for sub
Another Hifonics for the highs
Speaker wires (100 feet?)
Pioneer deck
rear speakers(have them)
Component set for doors(what would you guys recommend, $150 budget)
What am I leaving out?
I have a 1100 watt Hifonics BRX amp for the sub, but being i'ts only going to be in a 2 ohm load, it will only push 700 watts but should be perfect for that Punch 3. I would like to pick up another BRX for the amping the highs in the rear and the doors. I know some guys may knock on Hifonics but it's what I got and I'd like to stick to one brand of amp with almost the same look for vanity reasons too.
What I need to know guys. I know that I will have to run all new wiring . But what I need to know is exactly what I need in accessories to get this done. Here is what I know so far.
Need single din dash kit
antenna adapter
GM wiring harness
Door adapters for the component set
pig tail adapters (6 total, or does the componet tweeters bypass that?)
4 guage amp kit
Distribution block
Flush box for the Punch 3
Current Hifonics amp for sub
Another Hifonics for the highs
Speaker wires (100 feet?)
Pioneer deck
rear speakers(have them)
Component set for doors(what would you guys recommend, $150 budget)
What am I leaving out?
Last edited by IrbyBocksnick; 07-06-2017 at 01:29 PM. Reason: change
07-06-2017, 01:44 PM
#3
Yes, I got that and posted that I know I need new wiring. Was getting some advice too on what would be a good component set and if there was anything I was leaving out for the install. Thanks DD.
Last edited by IrbyBocksnick; 07-06-2017 at 01:50 PM.
07-06-2017, 05:11 PM
#4
Consider the Pioneer DEH-80PRS for the single din.
I prefer a Double Din, the Metra Kit with Pioneer 4201NEX or Kenwood 7704S.
Consider replacing the door speakers with a 6.5" and tweeter component set.
I prefer Hertz, Focal, and Alpine.
Consider not running rear speakers.
They destroy a decent front stage.
Use the money for high quality front speakers.
You can double your component budget without rear speakers.
Run all new wiring.
Consider:
wire ferrules, both 4 AWG and 12AWG
Heat skrink
Copper lugs
T-nuts and stainless screws for the sub
I prefer a Double Din, the Metra Kit with Pioneer 4201NEX or Kenwood 7704S.
Consider replacing the door speakers with a 6.5" and tweeter component set.
I prefer Hertz, Focal, and Alpine.
Consider not running rear speakers.
They destroy a decent front stage.
Use the money for high quality front speakers.
You can double your component budget without rear speakers.
Run all new wiring.
Consider:
wire ferrules, both 4 AWG and 12AWG
Heat skrink
Copper lugs
T-nuts and stainless screws for the sub
07-06-2017, 05:23 PM
#5
I will just have someone do the install for me, being I really will not have time with my new job. As for the speakers in the rear. I already have some 5.5 Pioneers or I don't have to use them at all.
07-28-2017, 06:05 AM
#6
Safety Car
Greetings,
I currently have a 98 coupe c5. Installed already is a kenwood 5 channel amp, pioneer 10 inch sub-woofer and aftermarket front and rear speakers. I am replacing the sony single din with kenwood ddx9904s double din and DoubleD's textured metra bezel.
Sony originally utilized the cars speaker wire and harness that came with head unit, as well as the 3 pre outs.
Here is what I need clarification on. Can I directly wire all speakers and sub-woofer to the amp and use the 3 preouts via patch cables?
I assume the only wires that I will terminate from the Kenwood harness are: ignition, power, ground, p.con yellow battery, parking and illumination to the factory harness in the C5.
I have the car interior ripped apart, so there is no turning back. Please advise if what I am saying makes sense and I am doing this correctly.
Thank you all
I currently have a 98 coupe c5. Installed already is a kenwood 5 channel amp, pioneer 10 inch sub-woofer and aftermarket front and rear speakers. I am replacing the sony single din with kenwood ddx9904s double din and DoubleD's textured metra bezel.
Sony originally utilized the cars speaker wire and harness that came with head unit, as well as the 3 pre outs.
Here is what I need clarification on. Can I directly wire all speakers and sub-woofer to the amp and use the 3 preouts via patch cables?
I assume the only wires that I will terminate from the Kenwood harness are: ignition, power, ground, p.con yellow battery, parking and illumination to the factory harness in the C5.
I have the car interior ripped apart, so there is no turning back. Please advise if what I am saying makes sense and I am doing this correctly.
Thank you all
07-28-2017, 11:24 AM
#7
Pro
Greetings,
I currently have a 98 coupe c5. Installed already is a kenwood 5 channel amp, pioneer 10 inch sub-woofer and aftermarket front and rear speakers. I am replacing the sony single din with kenwood ddx9904s double din and DoubleD's textured metra bezel.
Sony originally utilized the cars speaker wire and harness that came with head unit, as well as the 3 pre outs.
Here is what I need clarification on. Can I directly wire all speakers and sub-woofer to the amp and use the 3 preouts via patch cables?
I assume the only wires that I will terminate from the Kenwood harness are: ignition, power, ground, p.con yellow battery, parking and illumination to the factory harness in the C5.
I have the car interior ripped apart, so there is no turning back. Please advise if what I am saying makes sense and I am doing this correctly.
Thank you all
I currently have a 98 coupe c5. Installed already is a kenwood 5 channel amp, pioneer 10 inch sub-woofer and aftermarket front and rear speakers. I am replacing the sony single din with kenwood ddx9904s double din and DoubleD's textured metra bezel.
Sony originally utilized the cars speaker wire and harness that came with head unit, as well as the 3 pre outs.
Here is what I need clarification on. Can I directly wire all speakers and sub-woofer to the amp and use the 3 preouts via patch cables?
I assume the only wires that I will terminate from the Kenwood harness are: ignition, power, ground, p.con yellow battery, parking and illumination to the factory harness in the C5.
I have the car interior ripped apart, so there is no turning back. Please advise if what I am saying makes sense and I am doing this correctly.
Thank you all
Don't forget your cameras!
Consider the Pioneer DEH-80PRS for the single din.
I prefer a Double Din, the Metra Kit with Pioneer 4201NEX or Kenwood 7704S.
Consider replacing the door speakers with a 6.5" and tweeter component set.
I prefer Hertz, Focal, and Alpine.
Consider not running rear speakers.
They destroy a decent front stage.
Use the money for high quality front speakers.
You can double your component budget without rear speakers.
Run all new wiring.
Consider:
wire ferrules, both 4 AWG and 12AWG
Heat skrink
Copper lugs
T-nuts and stainless screws for the sub
I prefer a Double Din, the Metra Kit with Pioneer 4201NEX or Kenwood 7704S.
Consider replacing the door speakers with a 6.5" and tweeter component set.
I prefer Hertz, Focal, and Alpine.
Consider not running rear speakers.
They destroy a decent front stage.
Use the money for high quality front speakers.
You can double your component budget without rear speakers.
Run all new wiring.
Consider:
wire ferrules, both 4 AWG and 12AWG
Heat skrink
Copper lugs
T-nuts and stainless screws for the sub
Second on wire ferrules... I am currently battling a shitty connection for my amp. Wire keeps working loose from the fuse holder... Project for this weekend. Here's a good YouTube video on their use in car audio... I ordered mine from Amazon.
Both should seriously consider the Big 3 upgrade. I did not do this and have been having a ton of gremlins. Most particularly the remote wire for the amp doesn't always get enough volts to turn on the amp...
07-28-2017, 11:30 AM
#8
Safety Car
unlvrebel;1595239528]Yes, you will use the pre outs to the amp and run new speaker wire from the amp. As to the wiring harness, I don't know what "p.con yellow battery" is, but your wiring will be limited to the power that you have described.
Don't forget your cameras!
Don't forget your cameras!
Bad grammar, I meant p.con (amp power) and I believe the yellow wire was accessory. As for the camera, I have it wired to reverse taillight in the well behind the brake light, I grounded the black to the frame. The issue I am having is when I hookup the rca camera to head unit, there is a red wire hanging off and I am trying to figure where that goes. Thank you for your help.
07-28-2017, 05:16 PM
#9
Pro
Bad grammar, I meant p.con (amp power) and I believe the yellow wire was accessory. As for the camera, I have it wired to reverse taillight in the well behind the brake light, I grounded the black to the frame. The issue I am having is when I hookup the rca camera to head unit, there is a red wire hanging off and I am trying to figure where that goes. Thank you for your help.
With respect to the camera, sounds like you have the hot, ground and video (RCA) taken care of. Is the red wire a loop out and into the camera? If so, these are used for grid lines. Cameras generally have built in grid lines. Cut the wire and you have grid lines. Don't cut, no grid lines.
Remember to test EVERYTHING before putting back together. Power, remote amp turn on, speaker on each individual channel (fade and balance), camera operation, etc. Easier to fix when all the bezels are off...
Good luck!
07-28-2017, 06:00 PM
#10
Safety Car
With respect to the camera, sounds like you have the hot, ground and video (RCA) taken care of. Is the red wire a loop out and into the camera? If so, these are used for grid lines. Cameras generally have built in grid lines. Cut the wire and you have grid lines. Don't cut, no grid lines.
This is the rca and red wire that goes in back of the head unit for rear cam. Any ideas? I looked online but found nothing
07-28-2017, 07:34 PM
#11
Race Director
9904s is a considerably better sounding deck than anything in the pioneer lineup. kenwood did a good job with this deck.
component wise there are none for $150 unless you know what you're doing and build your own. there is a popular tweeter a lot of the DIY guys use and they are only 40 bucks a pair. build your own crossovers and experiment with resistors until you get the balance right. add in a pair of $40 ea woofer, probably something from typhany or SB acoustics. maybe even a good off brand. add a simple 6db coil on the woofer and 12db oct on the tweeter and you're set. this particular tweeter is a tymphany ring radiator with an alpine badge on it. typically crosses 3400-3500hz which means the woofer would go 6db/oct around 3000hz. for an ultra low cost setup it will beat down anything in that price bracket
if all that went over your head the least expensive component set worth buying is the morel tempo ultra which you can haggle dynamic autosound to about $275 a set. sometimes they even have ads up on buy dot com
component wise there are none for $150 unless you know what you're doing and build your own. there is a popular tweeter a lot of the DIY guys use and they are only 40 bucks a pair. build your own crossovers and experiment with resistors until you get the balance right. add in a pair of $40 ea woofer, probably something from typhany or SB acoustics. maybe even a good off brand. add a simple 6db coil on the woofer and 12db oct on the tweeter and you're set. this particular tweeter is a tymphany ring radiator with an alpine badge on it. typically crosses 3400-3500hz which means the woofer would go 6db/oct around 3000hz. for an ultra low cost setup it will beat down anything in that price bracket
if all that went over your head the least expensive component set worth buying is the morel tempo ultra which you can haggle dynamic autosound to about $275 a set. sometimes they even have ads up on buy dot com
Last edited by racebum; 07-28-2017 at 07:37 PM.
07-28-2017, 08:57 PM
#12
Safety Car
9904s is a considerably better sounding deck than anything in the pioneer lineup. kenwood did a good job with this deck.
component wise there are none for $150 unless you know what you're doing and build your own. there is a popular tweeter a lot of the DIY guys use and they are only 40 bucks a pair. build your own crossovers and experiment with resistors until you get the balance right. add in a pair of $40 ea woofer, probably something from typhany or SB acoustics. maybe even a good off brand. add a simple 6db coil on the woofer and 12db oct on the tweeter and you're set. this particular tweeter is a tymphany ring radiator with an alpine badge on it. typically crosses 3400-3500hz which means the woofer would go 6db/oct around 3000hz. for an ultra low cost setup it will beat down anything in that price bracket
if all that went over your head the least expensive component set worth buying is the morel tempo ultra which you can haggle dynamic autosound to about $275 a set. sometimes they even have ads up on buy dot com
component wise there are none for $150 unless you know what you're doing and build your own. there is a popular tweeter a lot of the DIY guys use and they are only 40 bucks a pair. build your own crossovers and experiment with resistors until you get the balance right. add in a pair of $40 ea woofer, probably something from typhany or SB acoustics. maybe even a good off brand. add a simple 6db coil on the woofer and 12db oct on the tweeter and you're set. this particular tweeter is a tymphany ring radiator with an alpine badge on it. typically crosses 3400-3500hz which means the woofer would go 6db/oct around 3000hz. for an ultra low cost setup it will beat down anything in that price bracket
if all that went over your head the least expensive component set worth buying is the morel tempo ultra which you can haggle dynamic autosound to about $275 a set. sometimes they even have ads up on buy dot com
Thank you
Last edited by johnson333; 07-28-2017 at 08:58 PM.
07-29-2017, 12:54 AM
#13
Race Director
http://www.morelhifi.com/product-category/car-audio/
check out their whole line up. i've heard a LOT of car audio speakers and if you have a good deck and quality amplifier these speakers will easily rival quality home audio.
remember, everything matters. you need a good deck AND good amplifiers. i have heard very high end speakers sound wonderful on one amp and tank on another. it matters what you drive them with and you may be limited with size and what will fit in the car
classical is hard to get right if you have a trained ear. my best advice is increase your budget.
Last edited by racebum; 07-29-2017 at 03:32 AM.
07-29-2017, 09:46 AM
#14
Safety Car
consider tonal balance over lossless, both obviously being ideal. high quality files are absolutely magic but these decks all have their own colored sound. in my opinion the better alpines are the most accurate followed by kenwood then pioneer. the new kenwoods really aren't that bad if you enjoy their interface
http://www.morelhifi.com/product-category/car-audio/
check out their whole line up. i've heard a LOT of car audio speakers and if you have a good deck and quality amplifier these speakers will easily rival quality home audio.
remember, everything matters. you need a good deck AND good amplifiers. i have heard very high end speakers sound wonderful on one amp and tank on another. it matters what you drive them with and you may be limited with size and what will fit in the car
classical is hard to get right if you have a trained ear. my best advice is increase your budget.
http://www.morelhifi.com/product-category/car-audio/
check out their whole line up. i've heard a LOT of car audio speakers and if you have a good deck and quality amplifier these speakers will easily rival quality home audio.
remember, everything matters. you need a good deck AND good amplifiers. i have heard very high end speakers sound wonderful on one amp and tank on another. it matters what you drive them with and you may be limited with size and what will fit in the car
classical is hard to get right if you have a trained ear. my best advice is increase your budget.
Wow, nice but way out of my budget.
07-29-2017, 02:45 PM
#15
Race Director
tempo ultras can be had for roughly $250-275 a pair for the component set from a couple of vendors. they are still a good speaker
go to buy dot com, search morel
should see the tempo ultra 602 component set for 274.99
go to buy dot com, search morel
should see the tempo ultra 602 component set for 274.99
Last edited by racebum; 07-29-2017 at 02:46 PM.
07-31-2017, 10:47 AM
#16
Pro
That red wire is camera power. Should be hooked up to your reverse lights if you want power at back up only. Alternative is to wire it to ACC power if you want on all the time and toggle the HU to camera.