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Because the Audio section always seems a little quiet, I figured I’d add some pictures of my new AudioControl dm-608 and the AudioControl sa4100i microphone with lightning connection for your iPhone. Uninstalled right now, but I am hoping to get them in this week.
Good one, I didn't think of that. Some guys probably don't know what the microphone is for. Just an FYI for those guys, it's for listening to your speakers so that you can see the frequencies being played for tuning purposes. It's not for car karaoke.
Good one, I didn't think of that. Some guys probably don't know what the microphone is for. Just an FYI for those guys, it's for listening to your speakers so that you can see the frequencies being played for tuning purposes. It's not for car karaoke.
No not yet. I didn’t get it done prior to leaving for vacation. And now, unfortunately it will have to wait at least another week plus until I get back. I’m anxious to get it installed and hear the results. I’ll post my impressions of it when I get it done.
Ok, finally got my AudioControl DM-608 DSP installed. I installed it in the rear cubby. I had my crossovers for my rear speakers installed in there previously so I built a shelf over the crossovers and now have both the crossovers and DSP tucked away in the cubby. I still need a lot of time to mess with it to learn the software and all the features and then do all the fine tuning. So far I put in the speaker distances for time alignment and used the DSP's auto tune function to give me some basic EQ adjustments. Right now it sounds ok but still a little flat. Keep in mind this is my first experience with a DSP so there is a learning curve to getting this right. Next step will be to use the mic and make EQ adjustments, via laptop, to get the RTA curve I'm looking for and the sound I am hoping for. I'm going to hold off judgement for now, as I got a lot more to do. I had my Pioneer tuned as good as it could possibly be tuned, IMO, and now I am starting from scratch again. I do believe that I will be able to surpass the results I got with the Pioneer alone, but I'm not sure if the results will be night and day difference. Hopefully I won't be limited by my own lack of experience. Will keep you guys posted with the final results for those that care.
Last edited by TorchRedFred; 07-21-2018 at 07:06 PM.
Update: I think I blew my sub. I spent a good part of my day trying to figure out why my sub wasn't working. I thought maybe my DSP wasn't woking since I just installed it. So after a lot of trouble shooting I started to come to the conclusion that I may have destroyed the sub while playing music yesterday before I got the DSP dialed in properly. Now I have to decide if I take the easy way and just replace it with another JL 10TW3 or do I replace it with a 10W6v3 which would require a new sub box. I have been considering upgrading the sub, but I just wasn't prepared to do it now after just purchasing a DSP. Any guesses on what it would cost to have a shop build a custom box? I would want something nice to run the width of the space behind the seats. Similar to this picture but maybe more square-ish and with all wood and no fiberglass.
Last edited by TorchRedFred; 07-23-2018 at 02:01 AM.
Why so bent on a W6? There are tons of other "better" subs that can be run in an SQ build that are shallow. For instance looking at your box setup, this would fit easily and sound great: http://www.illusionaudio-america.com...ts/carbon-c10/ These guys have a reputation as seriously high-end stuff. And not much more room needed. But first question is, how do you know your sub blew? Smell? What was happening at time of "destruction?" FWIW, I thought I was having an amp problem, it turned out is was just a pinched RCA cable. Replaced it for $50, and haven't had an issue yet. I attached a pic of my box since I'm running a 10W7. It has roughly the same space requirements as the W6 (slightly more for the W7) but it gives you an idea of how much more box you would need.
Side note thread crash: I just switched from 2-ways to 3-ways up front. OMG the difference is insane! No idea tweeter placement had such a profound affect on overall sound quality. Something to think about.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 07-23-2018 at 07:29 AM.
Reason: pic added
Well, I have always heard good things about the W6 and have been wanting to upgrade to one. In comparison to the W7, the W7 asks for more than twice the air space of a W6 for a closed enclosure. 1.25 cu ft for the W7 vs .55 cubic ft for the W6. So with the W6 I believe I can keep the box at a more desirable size without it overtaking the rear hatch area.
As far as my current sub, I still need to double check to confirm. But when installing my DSP, in the settings, I had my 2 sub channels summed together and it was sending a clipped signal to my sub. I wanted to go for a ride, so I turned the sub levels down in the DSP and took the car out. As I was driving I noticed I must of turned it down too much as now I had no bass. The next day, I go back to do some tuning and turn the sub back up and nothing. I thought it was something with the DSP and then I started to question if my amp was working as I had unplugged and plugged the RCA cables back in while I was making adjustments to the DSP. I checked the voltage from the amp to the sub and it is getting power. So my guess is the sub is blown as it is not moving or doing anything at all. I still need to take it out and test it. I noticed with my DSP, that with my sub channels being summed, that I was sending out a clipped signal even on the lowest settings. I have since removed the summing from the setting and all is good as far as signal, but I might of realized this too late.
No, I haven't done anything as I was calling it a day at that point. That's why I say I still have to confirm it is the sub. But by "pop test" do you mean using a battery as if checking polarity to see if the cone moves?
Had a 10W6 in the back of my Infiniti FX35 SUV with an XD600/1 on it and it sounded great. Very small airspace requirement for a 10" sub, especially compared to the W7. I have heard some people actually prefer the W6 for sound quality over the W7 but I have not heard a side by side comparison so I can't comment. Recently I put a Sundown audio EV3 12" sub in the FX35 and it sounds pretty damn good. Cost was only $125 on Amazon. Airspace requirement for the Sundown is also smallish at 0.3 cubic feet according to their website, but I would probably do more like 0.55 cubic feet. Those Sundown subs are built very well and can take more than their rated power easily. You could also step up to their SA-10 sub which handles 750 watts and has a similar airspace requirement and a 19mm excursion.
Just saw this thread. Verrrry interesting. I have been debating using an AudioControl amp with the DSP functions built in. I haven't done DSP before in a car, but I am going 3 way for speakers and generally seem to be really going for it on the Vette so...maybe I will.
I saw pictures of the box on other threads but in this one it looks like you can still store the top in there. Verrrrrrry interesting......I was planning the usual corvette stealth box but this has me thinking. It would certainly give me more flexibility with amps...
Just saw this thread. Verrrry interesting. I have been debating using an AudioControl amp with the DSP functions built in. I haven't done DSP before in a car, but I am going 3 way for speakers and generally seem to be really going for it on the Vette so...maybe I will.
I saw pictures of the box on other threads but in this one it looks like you can still store the top in there. Verrrrrrry interesting......I was planning the usual corvette stealth box but this has me thinking. It would certainly give me more flexibility with amps...
Those were 2 different sub boxes. My first sub box (pictured in this thread), held a shallow 10" JL sub and I could still store the targa top in the back. Then I built a second one to hold the larger W6. The larger one with the W6 has the black stained cubby doors but looks similar.
Had a 10W6 in the back of my Infiniti FX35 SUV with an XD600/1 on it and it sounded great. Very small airspace requirement for a 10" sub, especially compared to the W7. I have heard some people actually prefer the W6 for sound quality over the W7 but I have not heard a side by side comparison so I can't comment. Recently I put a Sundown audio EV3 12" sub in the FX35 and it sounds pretty damn good. Cost was only $125 on Amazon. Airspace requirement for the Sundown is also smallish at 0.3 cubic feet according to their website, but I would probably do more like 0.55 cubic feet. Those Sundown subs are built very well and can take more than their rated power easily. You could also step up to their SA-10 sub which handles 750 watts and has a similar airspace requirement and a 19mm excursion.
I ended up going with the W6 and have been real happy with it. The W7 just required way too much airspace for me to even consider it. Also heard good stuff about Sundown, although I have never owned one.
07-03-2018, 09:37 AM
My New Toys (DSP/Mic)
