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It comes with a switch that will operate the cutout. My plan is to get the power + ground for that switch from the cigarette lighter in my dash. Today I cut the end off my cigarette lighter and tested the copper wires with a voltage tester; I learned that the wires get power always, regardless of whether the key is in ignition. It is not switched power.
My worry is that some tiny amount of power drain might be going to my electric cutout motor, even when the switch is not engaged, and I'll slowly drain my battery. I have an under-sized battery installed in my car ( Odyssey PC925 ) as part of my weight reduction project, and so power drain is especially concerning for me.
What do you guys think? Can I rest assured that that switch physically opens the circuit and prevents all power drain when not used?
Yes, I'm a bit of a novice, my apologies if this seems paranoid.
It comes with a switch that will operate the cutout. My plan is to get the power + ground for that switch from the cigarette lighter in my dash. Today I cut the end off my cigarette lighter and tested the copper wires with a voltage tester; I learned that the wires get power always, regardless of whether the key is in ignition. It is not switched power.
My worry is that some tiny amount of power drain might be going to my electric cutout motor, even when the switch is not engaged, and I'll slowly drain my battery. I have an under-sized battery installed in my car ( Odyssey PC925 ) as part of my weight reduction project, and so power drain is especially concerning for me.
What do you guys think? Can I rest assured that that switch physically opens the circuit and prevents all power drain when not used?
Yes, I'm a bit of a novice, my apologies if this seems paranoid.
Probably not, but why not hook up to something controlled by the ignition?
Probably not, but why not hook up to something controlled by the ignition?
I don't believe that's an option. I'm only aware of one Switched ignition source (red wire beneath the passenger footwell) which I'm already using for my stereo. I don't believe I can run multiple devices off of that.
Of course I'm pretty novice, so I have low confidence in my current beliefs.
You could tap the OEM radio's 12v switched line for your stereo freeing up the 12v switched line by the fuse panel.
You could also use an "add a circuit" fuse tap and tap an existing switched circuit in either fuse box.
You could tap the OEM radio's 12v switched line for your stereo freeing up the 12v switched line by the fuse panel.
I think I misunderstood this, but this gave me an idea. Couldn't I use the blue line from my stereo, which is supposed to power my amps?
Like, instead of powering amps, I'll power the cutouts. That should work I think? Or is that blue line out from my aftermarket stereo not intended to put out that kind of power
Last edited by lancedolan; Jul 15, 2018 at 08:17 PM.
or perhaps that line is only intended to be used to tell the amps to turn on, and the amps actually get their power from a separate source, in which case that blue line probably isn't sufficient actually power my cutouts...
But you missed my point.
The OEM Bose harness has a switched power line in it that I assume you did not use to power your stereo because if you did you would not have needed to tap the 12v switched line by the floorboard fuse box. So that is an available fused and switched 12v source.
But you missed my point.
The OEM Bose harness has a switched power line in it that I assume you did not use to power your stereo because if you did you would not have needed to tap the 12v switched line by the floorboard fuse box. So that is an available fused and switched 12v source.
Have you looked into using a fuse tap? You can find a fuse that is switched power (ie, heated seats, radio, windshield wipers) and use that to power your cutouts.
Will this switch drain my battery?
