You only mentioned the 10amp hole, you should be in the MA hole. These cars, once the computers shut down only draw about .025 amps (not enough to show on the 10 amp setting). Plug into the MA hole, set the scale to the highest the meter has and connect your cables. Once connected, change to the next lower setting on the meter one at a time until you get a reading. My 08 started out at just over an amp and settled down after about 2 minutes to .025 amp (25 ma).

 

There are two amp holes. I will try what you said. Once I get to the baseline (say .025) then I plug in my phone to the console (always on) power supply it should read another .500 mA or so CORRECT?

Please try this on yours to verify if you can.

 

You will see an increase with any type of load created.

 

Correct, I am just getting this "sense" that these standard load tests don't work with late model cars & all the computers etc. Hope I am wrong. Maybe the tech2 would do a test, I have one (clone) that I haven't used much yet.

 

what kind of reading are you getting when you touch the red and black leads together? Take a picture of meter settings.

 

Will get back, day job busy, thx, stay tuned.

B

 

This little device makes it real easy to test the current drain from your battery:



http://rd.bizrate.com/rd2?t=https%3A...eative_id=2913

Install this between the neg battery post and the neg cable. De-activate the under-hood lamps, close the doors, and keep all accessories off. Put your PKE fob out of range. You'll need to find a way to connect your phone without opening your doors. Wait a minute or so to let all the computer stuff go to sleep. Connect your amp meter/multimeter, set for 100 mA, to the two bolts of this switch, then open the switch. You'll see the "residual current drain". Plug in your phone to see the difference.

 

Thanks I have a couple of those but they never fit quite right, now that batteries are in little boxes.

 

This


Now try again on the c6z.

 

i'm curious as to what you get......i did a parasitic draw test when i first bought mine, and it was much higher than the recommended .035 or lower.

 

Digital meters are a bit different with polarity.

Your analog meter has -/+ marked on the probes/meter. You will need to make sure you have your polarity correct is this case. Flip your connection to the wall wart wires.

 

Yes, will try that. Do you mean use the other wire on the wall wart, or just move the probes on the wire I have split?

 

flip the probes on the wire you have split.

 

Check

 

Analog meter learning

Thanks for teaching froggy.

 

No problem Froggy. Glad to give back. I have learned a lot from your channel.

 

fyi, i have a customer's car at the shop tonight complaining about dead battery. I will do the parasitic draw on his and mine tomorrow.

 

Please post, I have got bzy, can't do mine yet.

 

making a homemade shunt now, will start on it shortly

 

Okay, i tested both cars

mine, 2008 mn6, targa
aftermarket equipment
pioneer radio, pac harness, back up camera, pdx 5ch amp, sirius.....no factory amp/radio

his 2010, auto, convertible
pioneer radio, pac harness, back up camera, sirius, and a dash cam (which is run off the pac interface acc)

all measurements done with an old craftsmen meter, and backed up with my new, TRMS milwaukee meter on the mA scale (didn't want to damage the nice one, also the craftsmen could do 20amp while the milwaukee was only 10)


initial battery unhook
Mine his
.18-.21 .50-.56

15 minutes to sleep
.03-.04 .06-.08

unplugged aftermarket, no radio connected at all
.02-.03 .04-.06

oem radio connected
n/a .04-.05

based on the MECP accepted amount of parasitic draw of .035mA, mine is a bit over the accepted amount, and his is almost double. neither are daily drivers (mine has 32k, his 11k miles) Mine sits fully connected to a battery tender, and my battery has been fine since i swapped a few years ago. Customer leaves it connected, and claims battery tender, but what he described is nothing like the ones I ever saw. I wasn't paid for a full trouble shoot, so no pulling fuses to see why his is more than mine. I may look into mine more throughly when it gets warmer, but I am not too concerned. I checked both cars throughout the day, but only posted what seemed important.

also, why i was at it, i did an ac ripple test on mine, and got 250mV, so good on that end. I did however have quite a bit of rust on my negative terminal, and about 200 ohms between terminal and wire, so I cut it off and put a kicker top mount battery terminal. Looks better and should get more flow. Curious to see what you guys are getting.