Draw test on c6
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Draw test on c6
So both console/aux and cig lighter are intended to be always on. I am putting a mm in series on the neg battery conn and plugging my cell phone in to charge on the console. I also tried the cig lighter. The car is off been off for 1 hr.
Why no draw?
mA scale, meter set correct & all. Thoughts?
What fuses/circuits are always on?
Why no draw?
mA scale, meter set correct & all. Thoughts?
What fuses/circuits are always on?
Last edited by froggy47; 02-25-2019 at 06:01 PM.
#2
Race Director
Thread Starter
I took off the meter & conn the batt. 2 good 20a fuses and yes they are hot with the ign/car fully off. Both are function tested.
So why can't I read the draw thru the meter? When I have it in series? mA range? 0.000
Am I attaching the meter wrong? It's a new Klein mm400.
ugh
So why can't I read the draw thru the meter? When I have it in series? mA range? 0.000
Am I attaching the meter wrong? It's a new Klein mm400.
ugh
#3
Assuming you have the black MM cable on COM. MM Black to Neg bat and MMRed to Neg cable. Typically you start out higher (Amp--->ma) and dial down till you get a reading. Even if the car has been off for some time, once you make the connection between the two it will wake the computer up.
#4
Race Director
Thread Starter
Assuming you have the black MM cable on COM. MM Black to Neg bat and MMRed to Neg cable. Typically you start out higher (Amp--->ma) and dial down till you get a reading. Even if the car has been off for some time, once you make the connection between the two it will wake the computer up.
This is pizzing me off.
Even if this wakes up the car the console and the cig lighter will be on. I should be able to read the change in draw by attaching devices to those & then taking the devices off. I am getting zero's draw.
Last edited by froggy47; 02-26-2019 at 01:17 PM.
#5
Does it work if you set to measuring voltage?
Im at a loss unless something happen to burn up.
Meters should have both (10A) and ( ma) RED jacks, Front Switch with options for to select A or ma . The meter should have Button to select either AC or DC.
(10A) jack---Switch turned to 10A-----Button pushed to select DC
(ma) jack---Switch turned to ma----Button pushed to select DC
(Ua) jack is the same as (ma)---Switch turned to Ua---This is specific to DC
Common is black always.
Im at a loss unless something happen to burn up.
Meters should have both (10A) and ( ma) RED jacks, Front Switch with options for to select A or ma . The meter should have Button to select either AC or DC.
(10A) jack---Switch turned to 10A-----Button pushed to select DC
(ma) jack---Switch turned to ma----Button pushed to select DC
(Ua) jack is the same as (ma)---Switch turned to Ua---This is specific to DC
Common is black always.
#6
I have burned up a few meters before when testing in series on the positive side of the battery when load side of the meter connection slipped and hit Ground with the other end still connected.
#7
Race Director
Thread Starter
Does it work if you set to measuring voltage?
Im at a loss unless something happen to burn up.
Meters should have both (10A) and ( ma) RED jacks, Front Switch with options for to select A or ma . The meter should have Button to select either AC or DC.
(10A) jack---Switch turned to 10A-----Button pushed to select DC
(ma) jack---Switch turned to ma----Button pushed to select DC
(Ua) jack is the same as (ma)---Switch turned to Ua---This is specific to DC
Common is black always.
Im at a loss unless something happen to burn up.
Meters should have both (10A) and ( ma) RED jacks, Front Switch with options for to select A or ma . The meter should have Button to select either AC or DC.
(10A) jack---Switch turned to 10A-----Button pushed to select DC
(ma) jack---Switch turned to ma----Button pushed to select DC
(Ua) jack is the same as (ma)---Switch turned to Ua---This is specific to DC
Common is black always.
#9
#11
Typical wallwarts are AC-DC converters. If you look at the box your plugging into AC it will have DC output rating on it.
Here is picture of spec's to one.
Input AC output DC. two wires coming out are +/-
Here is picture of spec's to one.
Input AC output DC. two wires coming out are +/-
#12
example using phone charger
Below is an example using a spare Samsung phone charger.
two wires...red and white cut in half.
keep the red wires connected and used the white wires apart and used the HF meter to measure the current draw of my phone when plugged in.
two wires...red and white cut in half.
keep the red wires connected and used the white wires apart and used the HF meter to measure the current draw of my phone when plugged in.
#13
Race Director
Thread Starter
I tried reading the device end of the wart without any device (no load) is that what I do to test the meter?
I see your pics, I need the load. Can you post the full pic, I got a closeup.
So the meter is in series with either of the two wires of the wart, then the device is charged & read the meter.
I see your pics, I need the load. Can you post the full pic, I got a closeup.
So the meter is in series with either of the two wires of the wart, then the device is charged & read the meter.
Last edited by froggy47; 02-26-2019 at 07:43 PM.
#14
Yes you will need some type of load. After I make the splice I plugged the wallart in and plugged in the phone I actually used to take the pic. As you can see from the second picture it showed load when plugged the phone in while taking the picture it was charging the phone as the same time.
#15
Race Director
Thread Starter
Yes you will need some type of load. After I make the splice I plugged the wallart in and plugged in the phone I actually used to take the pic. As you can see from the second picture it showed load when plugged the phone in while taking the picture it was charging the phone as the same time.
#16
I assume you are trying to find a parasitic current drain.?
You will need some type of draw to get any type of reading and will need to make sure you have your meter set to pick up the smallest load or you will not get a reading. So setting it on 10A might not give you a screen reading of fractional Ma's.
You will need some type of draw to get any type of reading and will need to make sure you have your meter set to pick up the smallest load or you will not get a reading. So setting it on 10A might not give you a screen reading of fractional Ma's.
#17
Race Director
Thread Starter
I assume you are trying to find a parasitic current drain.?
You will need some type of draw to get any type of reading and will need to make sure you have your meter set to pick up the smallest load or you will not get a reading. So setting it on 10A might not give you a screen reading of fractional Ma's.
You will need some type of draw to get any type of reading and will need to make sure you have your meter set to pick up the smallest load or you will not get a reading. So setting it on 10A might not give you a screen reading of fractional Ma's.
I also have some buddy fuse taps for radar detector and the exhaust cut out. I am almost 100% sure there is no drain when those are off (unless they draw a standby current like tv's - but I don't think they do. off=off as far as I know.
I can't just pull fuses because all the computers talk to each other & this causes the car to wake up/go to sleep with some fuses. So ultimately will try to measure voltage drop over each fuse, but I'm a bit over my head, not even knowing how to ck the meter.
Seems like even disconnecting the car battery at neg. messes up the whole plan. With the sleep/awake and all.
Last edited by froggy47; 02-26-2019 at 08:01 PM.
#18
You might just have a bad meter for testing current draw. The battery test should work but you will need to leave it alone until it goes to sleep and make sure you don't have your fob near. The in series battery test is to easy and if you are not getting a reading I am thinking you might have something wrong with the current side of the meter. Do you have another meter?