Equalizer settings?
#1
Drifting
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Equalizer settings?
Got rid of all the Bose in my C5. components in the doors, aftermarket rear speakers, 12" sub in the hatch and amp running at all. Pioneer Double-Din head unit.
Not my first foray with this, but no matter what I do it's still sounds muddy to me. Obviously, ideally you would need to be in the car and everyone's ears are different, but can anyone shed some light on which of these settings I should mess with to make things more clear?
Not my first foray with this, but no matter what I do it's still sounds muddy to me. Obviously, ideally you would need to be in the car and everyone's ears are different, but can anyone shed some light on which of these settings I should mess with to make things more clear?
#2
Safety Car
Any time I use the EQ, I always up the bass, tune down the midrange, and up the treble, to me it's the midrange that makes it sound muddy.
#3
Le Mans Master
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This is going to sound more complicated than it is, but playing pink noise through your system while looking at an RTA scale to adjust your EQ properly is the way to go.
http://www.carstereochick.com/2012/0...-audio-system/
http://www.carstereochick.com/2012/0...-audio-system/
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BlackHellcat (03-13-2019)
#4
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This is going to sound more complicated than it is, but playing pink noise through your system while looking at an RTA scale to adjust your EQ properly is the way to go.
http://www.carstereochick.com/2012/0...-audio-system/
http://www.carstereochick.com/2012/0...-audio-system/
#5
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I have used two different apps. One is RTA or RTA Pro by Studio Six Digital by Andrew Smith. (App symbol below).
https://appadvice.com/app/rta-pro-by...tal/1138871694
The other app is Signal Generator by Media Punk Studios.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/sign...543661843?mt=8
I use SG to play the pink noise. The RTA app also has a pink noise player, but for some reason doesn't work for me. FYI, pink noise should be a constant "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" but the RTA app would play "shh shh shh shh".
https://appadvice.com/app/rta-pro-by...tal/1138871694
The other app is Signal Generator by Media Punk Studios.
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/sign...543661843?mt=8
I use SG to play the pink noise. The RTA app also has a pink noise player, but for some reason doesn't work for me. FYI, pink noise should be a constant "shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" but the RTA app would play "shh shh shh shh".
Last edited by TorchRedFred; 03-13-2019 at 11:11 PM.
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BlackHellcat (03-14-2019)
#6
Melting Slicks
Usually muddiness is too much level around the 90Hz-350Hz area, which approximately goes from the middle of the bass region to the middle of the low mid-range. Try EQing down that area and see if it improves.
The reason for this is that for every 3db of reinforcement, twice the power is required and power is not infinite. People tend to adjust by adding and with a multi-band EQ is very easy to go overboard. This will overload the amp, making it clip and therefore distort.
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BlackHellcat (03-14-2019)
#7
I know you said this is not your first foray into audio, so I would assume you know this, but you know the saying about assuming! So I would add: you did not mention any crossovers on your front and rear speakers. They should have a high pass crossover somewhere around 80hz to keep frequencies they can't reproduce at high volume out of them. If you are cranking it with no crossover applied the chances you are driving those speakers into distortion are pretty good. This would cause a "muddy" sound for lack of a better term.
#8
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I know you said this is not your first foray into audio, so I would assume you know this, but you know the saying about assuming! So I would add: you did not mention any crossovers on your front and rear speakers. They should have a high pass crossover somewhere around 80hz to keep frequencies they can't reproduce at high volume out of them. If you are cranking it with no crossover applied the chances you are driving those speakers into distortion are pretty good. This would cause a "muddy" sound for lack of a better term.
Last edited by BlackHellcat; 03-15-2019 at 11:06 PM.
#9
Safety Car
On the Pioneer unit, did you adjust the Low and High Pass Filters accordingly ?
Last edited by madsonp; 03-16-2019 at 01:31 AM.
#11
Safety Car
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BlackHellcat (03-17-2019)
#12
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Well, according to the owners manual for yours, you do have adjustments for them, look at page 41 of your owners manual. If you don't have the manual for it, you can find it here. https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/S...nual071118.pdf
#13
Melting Slicks
#14
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https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...ng-Crossovers-
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BlackHellcat (03-17-2019)
#15
The passive crossovers only handle the transition from mid to high. They don't filter out the low frequencies that are hard for small speakers to reproduce. As others have mentioned, you need to use the electronic crossover either in your head unit or your amp to apply a high pass crossover to your front and rear speakers. As I mentioned, a good starting point is 80hz.
Now's also a good time to check that you have a low pass filter on the subwoofer also - again a good starting point is around 80hz.
Also, what amp are you running? You need to make sure that if you decide to use the crossovers on the head unit that the amp crossovers are set to full range (or vice-versa).
I'd also move that wire from in front of the tweeter like that. Probably not going to be something too noticeable, but anything you put in front of a HF driver will have an effect on it's sound as they are very directional.
Now's also a good time to check that you have a low pass filter on the subwoofer also - again a good starting point is around 80hz.
Also, what amp are you running? You need to make sure that if you decide to use the crossovers on the head unit that the amp crossovers are set to full range (or vice-versa).
I'd also move that wire from in front of the tweeter like that. Probably not going to be something too noticeable, but anything you put in front of a HF driver will have an effect on it's sound as they are very directional.
Last edited by daverulz; 03-17-2019 at 09:09 PM.
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#17
Drifting
It looks like your tweeter is half covered up by the wires....move the wires.
Relocate Tweeter up higher, outside of door panel, on the A-pillar. I am assuming you care more about brightness and clarity vs. imaging. Also, you can try to use a separate amplifier just for the tweeters, that way you have 100% control over the levels/crossover points.
Also, I have an excel spreadsheet you can use to tune your system, but you will need to use a cheap-o Radio Shack SPL meter. The spreadsheet is calibrated specifically for it. If you want it, send me a PM with your email address and I can send it to you.
Relocate Tweeter up higher, outside of door panel, on the A-pillar. I am assuming you care more about brightness and clarity vs. imaging. Also, you can try to use a separate amplifier just for the tweeters, that way you have 100% control over the levels/crossover points.
Also, I have an excel spreadsheet you can use to tune your system, but you will need to use a cheap-o Radio Shack SPL meter. The spreadsheet is calibrated specifically for it. If you want it, send me a PM with your email address and I can send it to you.
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BlackHellcat (03-24-2019)
#19
Drifting
Your speakers might be out of phase with each other or with your midranges....try switching the positive and negatives around on the speakers.
tweeters alone to match.
Then midrange alone to match.
Then play tweeters and mids.
Then swap both tweeters OR both mids and try again.
Thats probably your problem.
tweeters alone to match.
Then midrange alone to match.
Then play tweeters and mids.
Then swap both tweeters OR both mids and try again.
Thats probably your problem.