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I apologize for the dumb thread, but I'm **** at wiring.
Bought an alpine head unit and the associated interface (RP5 GM11) and spent today getting the harnesses ready and connected. When it comes to the power and ground wires the little tabs on the wires say to run both interface sets into the radio harness power and ground. Makes sense but the accessory power relay has a wonky split off of it and the power and ground pins off the radio to interface were already cut and taped. I'm just trying to make sense of how best to splice everything together.
that's been butchered...
connect the yellow and black wires from that relay/transistor back to the harness with the short black and yellow wires. Tape that back up and you'll have the yellow and black wires still coming from that tap. The relay/transistor should only have a red wire coming out of it. You can then connect three yellow wires (long yellow from car side of the harness and yellow wire from black harness together with the yellow wire from radio. Same thing for the black wire.
The red coming from that relay/transistor output should go to the red of the radio.
Don't forget the Blue with white from adapter goes to the radio's blue with white wire. this turns on the factory amp.
I didnt think the short power and ground off the interface was right but it came new in box with them cut that short and taped up. I appreciate your assistance!
parking brake bypass comes in tomorrow that's why I haven't connected the remote yet.
Last edited by Withnasty; May 22, 2020 at 08:17 PM.
Pac had an issue with their power wires on a percentage of their RP5-GM11 interface. At some point they made a modification to include some kind of jumper wire where you connect it normally but also do a second connection where you jump over the Pac module as a backup connection. I am not 100% sure of the specifics as mine did not have the jumper wires and I never went back and added the jumper wires because I am yet to have any problems. There should be something in the directions. Here is a link. Scroll down to the the yellow highlighted area that states "important instructions for double din radios".
Pac had an issue with their power wires on a percentage of their RP5-GM11 interface. At some point they made a modification to include some kind of jumper wire where you connect it normally but also do a second connection where you jump over the Pac module as a backup connection. I am not 100% sure of the specifics as mine did not have the jumper wires and I never went back and added the jumper wires because I am yet to have any problems. There should be something in the directions. Here is a link. Scroll down to the the yellow highlighted area that states "important instructions for double din radios".
Fred is correct, this was an issue mostly when the interface was used with Double Din units as they draw more power, this caused an issue in some of the interface modules that would overload something in the module, and once it's gone, it's gone, so adding the jumpers after it quits woking will do you no good. Since then they came out with those instructions on how to add the jumper wires (if you have an older one) which reduces the load on the module, and have since added the jumpers themselves at the factory to their newest ones, instead of fixing the issue with the module itself, I guess it was a cheaper fix for them. Fred, I know you've been lucky up to this point, and haven't had any issues with yours, but I'd sure recommend adding them to yours and anyone else who has one of the older ones, as a preventive measure to help ensure you don't have any issues with it, after all they issued these instructions for a reason.
Fred is correct, this was an issue mostly when the interface was used with Double Din units as they draw more power, this caused an issue in some of the interface modules that would overload something in the module, and once it's gone, it's gone, so adding the jumpers after it quits woking will do you no good. Since then they came out with those instructions on how to add the jumper wires (if you have an older one) which reduces the load on the module, and have since added the jumpers themselves at the factory to their newest ones, instead of fixing the issue with the module itself, I guess it was a cheaper fix for them. Fred, I know you've been lucky up to this point, and haven't had any issues with yours, but I'd sure recommend adding them to yours and anyone else who has one of the older ones, as a preventive measure to help ensure you don't have any issues with it, after all they issued these instructions for a reason.
I know you are right Pete. Truth is, if it goes, it will just give me an excuse to upgrade to a newer head unit. I don't want to go through the hassle just to add the jumpers. If I have to remove the head unit, to add the jumpers or replace the RP5, that will be a perfect time to upgrade my head unit. I have to admit, part of me is hoping it stops working.
I know you are right Pete. Truth is, if it goes, it will just give me an excuse to upgrade to a newer head unit. I don't want to go through the hassle just to add the jumpers. If I have to remove the head unit, to add the jumpers or replace the RP5, that will be a perfect time to upgrade my head unit. I have to admit, part of me is hoping it stops working.
I didnt think the short power and ground off the interface was right but it came new in box with them cut that short and taped up. I appreciate your assistance!
parking brake bypass comes in tomorrow that's why I haven't connected the remote yet.
Yessir. Microbypass came in today so I put it all together. Bummed that i ran out of black connectors and had to use the pink ones, but took all of 10 minutes after your breakdown and the updated instructions. I appreciate the assistance.
Sanity check
