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From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by VQT88Vette
CentralCoaster,
Where can I get that flat GM adapter at?
I believe its a scoche kit, or one of the regular companies. it's a generic GM kit. Make sure you get the centered one.. the ones with the 1/2 din pocket above or below won't fit.
It came with the little GM mounts that are on the bose unit to bolt into the car, but they didn't line up right.. so i used the metal ones out of my car.
Just remembered, it came from crutchfield... so whatever they carry. It was free with the h/u, which i ended up returning. They told me to keep the adapter and wiring harness and 1 yr subscription to car and driver. Good deal!
My installer did a fantastic job. He did tell me that removing the Bose system was very complicated and it should not be attempted by a novice. He said it would take hours to properly remove all parts involved.
The "very complicated" part is a bit over stating it. That sounds more like a sales pitch perhaps. If you've ever installed an amplifier or a head unit in a car, you've got the skills to remove the Bose crap. Dont under-estimate yourself! But I guess on the same token, dont do something that you think you'll screw up. If you ever need to be talked thru something like audio system removal / installation, im sure there would be plenty of people here willing to help.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
I would say its overcomplicated.
Dissecting the doors to remove bose pods, fabricating door speaker mounts, running new wiring front and rear, and the optional removing of dash and cutting speaker plates and recovering.
Yeah I'd say it's pretty involved. And with an amp, just running the battery and ground wire can be a royal pain to do correctly.
Dissecting the doors to remove bose pods, fabricating door speaker mounts, running new wiring front and rear, and the optional removing of dash and cutting speaker plates and recovering.
Yeah I'd say it's pretty involved. And with an amp, just running the battery and ground wire can be a royal pain to do correctly.
I was just trying to suggest that doing it yourself is not that difficult. Thats all. If you have the tools needed already, than more than likely you've done something complicated enough in the first place to warrant the purchase of such tools. The tools needed are really a dremel, jigsaw, drill, basic screwdriver set, allen wrench set (including torx type bits), socket set, maybe a router. Then there is the amount of time reqired to set aside to do the project from start to finish. If you dont have the tools, it would probably be cheaper, or at least break even to just pay someone to install it. But dont be afraid to DIY....you cant possibly screw up more than the guy at the audio shop can - unless you know the guy does good work. Its hard to find people like that at Circuit City or Best Buy. The managment at both places are notoriuos for shying away from vettes. I've tried it myself a couple of times, just to see what they said. I was told that they dont to Corvetes or any car with bose. I kind of got a chukle out of it.
I didn't have to re-wire anything. I just cut the amp. off and re-used the existing wires. Nothing wrong with re-using the old wire unless you want to use bigger wire. I also put a 50 W/channel (4 channels) in the space behind the pass. seat., including a 12 cd changers in there too. It tight in there but fit nicely. Only place I find for ground for the amp. is the nuts/bolts that attach the rear of the seat.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
There's been some debate here on the effectiveness of the seat bolts.
It appears to be a fiberglass pan with steel strips reinforcing these bolts, I'm guessing the only way it finds its way to a good ground is indirectly through the power seat wiring harness.
I didn't feel to confident using the bose preamp wires for running the amped signal, they're pretty small. But then again, all aftermarket car stereo wiring is wayyy oversized.
But then again, all aftermarket car stereo wiring is wayyy oversized.
Im not the only one who thinks this. Of course, im guilty of buying some monster cable 12 guage wire for my subwoofer wires. But for buck a foot at Radshak, I couldnt help myself. Its really silly, since the wire leads on the speakers are mostly 16-20 guage and even then, the voice coil is as thin as a strand of hair.
If anyones wiring to their speakers gets warm from overcurrent, PM me the name of your amplifier, i'll pick one up
There's been some debate here on the effectiveness of the seat bolts.
It appears to be a fiberglass pan with steel strips reinforcing these bolts, I'm guessing the only way it finds its way to a good ground is indirectly through the power seat wiring harness.
I didn't feel to confident using the bose preamp wires for running the amped signal, they're pretty small. But then again, all aftermarket car stereo wiring is wayyy oversized.
Now that I think about it a little more, I used oversize wires to run from the amp to the head unit. But was too lazy to re route the wire thru the doors and the back panel so I used the original wires . Defeting the purpose of using the big wire wasn't it. It was bought thru Crutchfield also and didn't want to sent thing back.
Good idea for using power seat ground wire as ground point.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by VQT88Vette
Good idea for using power seat ground wire as ground point.
Actually what I should have said more clearly, is it's a bad idea. Consider the current draw of the amp with a 30 amp fuse, or two of em, and you want a ground connection that can handle more than the fuse and current draw of the seat motors at the same time.
Glad to hear it sounds great. But they didn't happen to put in one of those spacers that stick the h/u out of the dash did they?
It's not needed, even though Metra and the aftermarket literature all say to use it.
The standard flat GM 1-din centered on 1.5din adapter works, just requires a small piece of plastic behind there to be cut.
After looking at yours a little more, I decided to order the 'flat' kit from Crutchfield. Ordered it Monday and got here today. Just finished installing it and it looks a lot cleaner/neater. I'll take some pictures during the day time. Thanks for adice, cut that little 'donut' at the back of the old tray and everything slipped right in.
After looking at yours a little more, I decided to order the 'flat' kit from Crutchfield. Ordered it Monday and got here today. Just finished installing it and it looks a lot cleaner/neater. I'll take some pictures during the day time. Thanks for adice, cut that little 'donut' at the back of the old tray and everything slipped right in.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by 87Clwy
Just got back from Barrett-Jackson, I'll take some tomorrow
Buy a stablemate?
Waitin on pics.... I fixed the stereo install on timspeed's vette, the damn thing was sticking out about 1". I managed to reuse his crappy adapter somehow by flipping it around and cutting some new holes.
Somebody needs to rewrite the book over at circuit city.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; Jan 31, 2005 at 04:53 AM.
Waitin on pics.... I fixed the stereo install on timspeed's vette, the damn thing was sticking out about 1". I managed to reuse his crappy adapter somehow by flipping it around and cutting some new holes.
Somebody needs to rewrite the book over at circuit city.
No new stablemate (yet), prices got to outrages for me. Here's the picture with the new flat faceplate set up. I like it a lot better ...