Sidney004

I have had one leak on an older caliper whose seat was corroded. If it is a new, clean caliper and a new speedbleeder where could the leak path be other than thru the seating surfaces? When the bleeder screw is seated, its no different than a normal bleed valve, because of the sealant on the threads the torque and feel to seat them is greater than a normal bleeder so its possible to undertighten them if you are not used to them. If the mating seat is dirty or corroded, anything is possible and a leak is a real possibility.

John Shiels

You can buy a small piece of tubing with a one-way valve that does the same thing and you won't have any leaks. I forgot the name of who makes it (edit KD Tools) and it's a few dollars and you can use it on many vehicles. I never had a regular bleeder leak but I had the speed bleeders leak. They sent me more for free but I gave up on them.

vette6aut0x

Speed bleeders are junk. I with David. Tried them once. They leaked, out they came. Brakes are one of the most important parts of a car. If you can't stop the rest does not matter.

John Shiels

The think I bought cost 5 bucks and works on my Dodge 3500, Excursion, GS Vette, and Wilwood calipers.

BEZ06

Hi Bob

Real high-end power bleed setups have a diaphragm that pushes on the fluid, and air pressure pushes the diaphragm - that way no humid, moisture laden air gets to the fluid to pass its moisture into the brake fluid in your system.

However, I just use the Motive Power Bleeder as a pressure source. I'm just not convinced that the partial pressure of the air (or more properly the water vapor in the air) at an increase in pressure of only about 1/3 atmosphere is going to add a material amount of water into the system - especially if you bleed regularly before and after events.


It's very easy! Below you can see that there's a tube coming from the bottle, and it has a cap on it that just screws onto your m/c. When I got the Motive I ordered on for a GM m/c and it came with this cap:





Here it is hooked up. I just took the OE cap off the m/c and screwed the Motive cap on. I gave the pump a few strokes and the pressure is up to about 5 psi in the picture, (nothing in the bottle but pressurized air), but I usually use 10-12 psi and that works great for me - even pushing the fluid out through my speed bleeders:





BTW, I've had speed bleeders on several vehicles and have NEVER had a problem.

The Power Bleeder with the speed bleeders is overkill, but if I don't have my Power Bleeder with me I can still easily do a bleed without getting my wife to push the brake pedal.

Other Bob

rgg16g

Yes I know, that is why I was looking at them.

So you just bleed like normal and refill the MC reservoir as needed. Hmm, I will look at that but I'm not seeing the advantage at this moment. You still have pressurized outside air forced into the reservoir. Are we thinking less surface contact so less moisture transfer?

I had used a Motive power bleeder on my old track car, 05 EVO, with good success. When I bought my vette last year I decided to not pressure bleed for the mentioned reasons. Thus I added speed bleeders to speed up the pedal pumping bleeding process. It’s still quicker to use the motive so I might go back to it this year. I still use the motive on my other cars, and it’s a very nice tool to have at the track if you need to bleed during an event.

As for increased introduction of moisture to the fluid, I’m going to test it this season. I’m not saying a Motive style pressure bleeder doesn’t introduce more moisture, but the question is; does it affect MY situation? Does it introduce enough moisture fast enough to effect my fluid boiling point? I do bleed frequently (before every event), maybe too frequently, but with a motive (or similar means) it’s easy to do, so why not bleed during you pre-event inspections.

Last year my pedal stayed firm during track days, and as I said, last year I was bleeding with the brake pedal and the speed bleeders.

Bob