Anyone use ShockStrap tie downs?
09-11-2019, 11:34 AM
#41
Safety Car
Valid point about not corssing the rear due to the straps having to "straighten" in hig load movement.
We all know trailer limitation/car limitations push you into one method or the other.
I don't see how you can "straight strap" a car with points inline with the tires like the C5/C7. The frame holes are not inboard enough to go straight unless you are finding a spot on the LCA's or cradle.
I cross the front, and straighten the rear but I'll need to revisit the rear due to potential strap/deck rubbing.
We all know trailer limitation/car limitations push you into one method or the other.
I don't see how you can "straight strap" a car with points inline with the tires like the C5/C7. The frame holes are not inboard enough to go straight unless you are finding a spot on the LCA's or cradle.
I cross the front, and straighten the rear but I'll need to revisit the rear due to potential strap/deck rubbing.
09-11-2019, 11:47 AM
#42
Safety Car
i don't get it. So the straps in the ad do what any good straps should. If yours stretch, like when they get wet, you need better straps. I'm a Mac's dealer and it's all I use, their 10k direct hook stuff, and also with t-hooks into the frame. Though I cross mine front and rear both. Three years ago a texting teen came over a rise, in my lane, and hit my trailer, ripping both tandems completely out from under it. Car didn't move ('98 Camaro 3429 pounds). About 19 years ago a guy I know fainted while driving home, down into a drainage ditch with his brand new C5Z (this was end of Sept. 2000). His car slid off the trailer sideways about a foot. NONE of his straps were crossed otherwise I bet it would not have moved. And that accident totalled his Lightning, the frame was bent like a pretzel when it came out of the hole. And yes, he was luckily ok.
Also. No way did hitting that deer take him from 70 to 7. His brakes might have but that's not "in no time". I've hit deer and as much damage as they can do, let's face facts, that's not a light truck, add the trailer weight to it, and the momentum of 70mph and that deer went for a ride, he didn't come to a stop from hitting it.
Also. No way did hitting that deer take him from 70 to 7. His brakes might have but that's not "in no time". I've hit deer and as much damage as they can do, let's face facts, that's not a light truck, add the trailer weight to it, and the momentum of 70mph and that deer went for a ride, he didn't come to a stop from hitting it.
Also interesting that he has no straps mounted along the direction of the impact (like you would with a car on a trailer). They are mounted roughly 90* to the direction the parts would have wanted to move. Another point...2000lb of dead weight I don't think would move much anyways hitting a deer. Now if you slam a immovable object like they do in crash test...sure watch out. 10-12K of rolling mass at 70MPH hitting a stationary fleshy 300lb object? No contest.
I guess they are selling you on the fact that allowing the rubber joint to expand/stretch slightly is better than a theoretical rigid strap which would rip/break??
09-11-2019, 12:05 PM
#43
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If you use the wheel cribs or whatever they call them all of the loads on the car and suspension are the same as if you're driving it. If you hook into the frame somewhere and it causes a crack or pulls through you have effectively totaled your car. There's a thread on here somewhere about a guy that totaled his c7 when he ran over something in the road that caused a crack in the frame. There is no approved repair. For me that's enough to keep me from using holes in the frame that were not designed for that. Here's the article on Road and Track. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...oscopic-crack/
09-11-2019, 06:00 PM
#44
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If you use the wheel cribs or whatever they call them all of the loads on the car and suspension are the same as if you're driving it. If you hook into the frame somewhere and it causes a crack or pulls through you have effectively totaled your car. There's a thread on here somewhere about a guy that totaled his c7 when he ran over something in the road that caused a crack in the frame. There is no approved repair. For me that's enough to keep me from using holes in the frame that were not designed for that. Here's the article on Road and Track. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...oscopic-crack/
09-11-2019, 06:42 PM
#45
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The T hooks are utilized to haul the car from the factory. That is the reason they are there. If a little drill stopping and doubling with a plate scares you, you probably ought to avoid flying in any aircraft and I mean ANY aircraft. That is the approved procedure for repairs.
09-12-2019, 07:56 AM
#47
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I'm not really sure how to make it clear enough for you to understand but I'm going to give it another try. If you get a crack in the frame on these cars the insurance companies are going to Total it no matter how you feel about the repair. That is all I'm trying to say. I'm not arguing with you about the effectiveness of the repair. I'm not talkin about different grades of aluminum. I'm talking about how the insurance companies will handle a crack in the frame.
Last edited by badhabit_wb; 09-12-2019 at 07:57 AM.
09-12-2019, 10:46 AM
#48
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I'm not really sure how to make it clear enough for you to understand but I'm going to give it another try. If you get a crack in the frame on these cars the insurance companies are going to Total it no matter how you feel about the repair. That is all I'm trying to say. I'm not arguing with you about the effectiveness of the repair. I'm not talkin about different grades of aluminum. I'm talking about how the insurance companies will handle a crack in the frame.
09-12-2019, 10:49 AM
#49
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This is what happens when there is no approved repair. Nobody , that knows better, will take on that kind of liability. I agree that it's nuts that a crack like that would total a car. The sad thing is anyone that repairs it is on the hook for life if anything ever happens. I would have loved to have gotten the c7 in that article and repaired the crack and used it as my track car.
09-12-2019, 10:56 AM
#50
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This is what happens when there is no approved repair. Nobody , that knows better, will take on that kind of liability. I agree that it's nuts that a crack like that would total a car. The sad thing is anyone that repairs it is on the hook for life if anything ever happens. I would have loved to have gotten the c7 in that article and repaired the crack and used it as my track car.
As an aside: I just paid my yearly premium of $749.00 for the ZR1. I suppose I can expect that to go up when a few more get a wrinkle or two. Considering the C8 has 3 and 1/2 times more bonding than the C7 I can only imagine what toll those will take.
Last edited by SouthernSon; 09-12-2019 at 11:00 AM.
09-12-2019, 11:01 AM
#51
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I guess this begs the question of whom, and possibly a collaborative effort of two or more entities, wrote the volume of 'approved repairs'? It is truly the silliest thing I have ever heard.
As an aside: I just paid my yearly premium of $749.00 for the ZR1. I suppose I can expect that to go up when a few more get a wrinkle or two. Considering the C8 has 3 and 1/2 times more bonding than the C7 I can only imagine what toll those will take.
As an aside: I just paid my yearly premium of $749.00 for the ZR1. I suppose I can expect that to go up when a few more get a wrinkle or two. Considering the C8 has 3 and 1/2 times more bonding than the C7 I can only imagine what toll those will take.