Head Light Up/Down Switch
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 60
From: Buffalo New York
Head Light Up/Down Switch
The switch operating the headlights on my 66 only works now in the down function. In order to get the up side to work I have to play with the switch until I can find the magic spot where it makes contact. Last night I couldn't even do that and had to roll them up by hand. I see this switch is pretty expensive to replace so I want to take a shot at repairing it if I can. I am thinking about the electrical contact cleaner that can be found at Radio Shack. Take the switch out disassemble if I can. Maybe some light steel wool and the contact cleaner. Anybody ever done this or have a better way to clean this switch?
Last edited by Dennis Beck; Oct 3, 2005 at 08:59 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,497
Likes: 509
From: Willowbrook IL
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16
That is how you do it. There are two small metal retainer holding the switch together. After disassembly look for any broken parts. If there are none then rebuild/repair the switch. After cleaning the contacts with spray, go over the contact points with a piece of emory cloth. Then clean again, and reassemble, some will recommend an application of dielectric grease to the contact points, some won't. Reassemble, but before installation, check the eletrical operation of the switch with an ohm meter. If all still good, install and reconnect the wiring harness.
Don
Don
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,019
Likes: 1,098
From: Aggieland TX
Dennis
Here's what you'll find inside the switch. The switch lever rocks back and forth on the raised contacts. It's a pretty simple mechanism. Mine was whacked badly by a previous owner. Be real careful with those two clips that hold it together. They're hard to come by.
Good luck.
DZ
Here's what you'll find inside the switch. The switch lever rocks back and forth on the raised contacts. It's a pretty simple mechanism. Mine was whacked badly by a previous owner. Be real careful with those two clips that hold it together. They're hard to come by.
Good luck.
DZ
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 60
From: Buffalo New York
Great picture! Now I have a better idea before I get in there. Since it wants to work sometimes I wonder if it is dirty or the up contact is out of shape somehow or the rocker is worn too far to keep the contact from closing. Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it comes out.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 1
From: Henderson MI
Here is a series of pictures showing disassembly of the head light switch
Chuck
http://71.65.16.138/vette/frame.php?Dir=HeadlightSwitch
Chuck
http://71.65.16.138/vette/frame.php?Dir=HeadlightSwitch
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,068
Likes: 27
From: St. Joseph Mo
DZVette:
Ref. your picture: The contact plate has one plastic ear broken off. This will make it hard to get contacts closed with the rocker.
Dennis Beck:
Use a points file to shine up the contacts. Spray cleaner is mostly useless.
Check the fit of the female gang plug to the switch. The plastic creeps over time and the pins lose contact. They can be bushed with a strip of brass shim stock. Preform around a finish nail.
For best performance electricly, clean all the connections in the rollover circuit including the bulkhead connection. Don't forget the battery connections.
If all else fails, dissamble the gearmotors and inspect the output gear. The teeth distort and eventually start binding up. Usually this will show up on one side but not the other.
A pair of new output gears and a SS toothbrush is all that is needed to have reliable headlight buckets.
Vette-66
Great pics.
http://71.65.16.138/vette/frame.php?Dir=HeadlightSwitch
Last in series shows how to remove the clip. Push in the tab with a pin punch and pull out the clip.
Ref. your picture: The contact plate has one plastic ear broken off. This will make it hard to get contacts closed with the rocker.
Dennis Beck:
Use a points file to shine up the contacts. Spray cleaner is mostly useless.
Check the fit of the female gang plug to the switch. The plastic creeps over time and the pins lose contact. They can be bushed with a strip of brass shim stock. Preform around a finish nail.
For best performance electricly, clean all the connections in the rollover circuit including the bulkhead connection. Don't forget the battery connections.
If all else fails, dissamble the gearmotors and inspect the output gear. The teeth distort and eventually start binding up. Usually this will show up on one side but not the other.
A pair of new output gears and a SS toothbrush is all that is needed to have reliable headlight buckets.
Vette-66
Great pics.
http://71.65.16.138/vette/frame.php?Dir=HeadlightSwitch
Last in series shows how to remove the clip. Push in the tab with a pin punch and pull out the clip.
Last edited by 67L36Driver; Oct 3, 2005 at 11:48 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,019
Likes: 1,098
From: Aggieland TX
"DZVette"
"Ref. your picture: The contact plate has one plastic ear broken off. This will make it hard to get contacts closed with the rocker."
Carl,
I should have specified that this was the guts of the old switch (beyond repair) and the reason I needed a new one ($$). Believe it or not, the old one was "welded" together with a generous layer of JB Weld on the back of the harness conector, etc. Couldn't disconnect the harness connector without pulling one of the pins out of the switch either. Not just a car, it's an adventure! All is well with the new harness and switch!
Thanks for the clarification to others!
DZ
"Ref. your picture: The contact plate has one plastic ear broken off. This will make it hard to get contacts closed with the rocker."
Carl,
I should have specified that this was the guts of the old switch (beyond repair) and the reason I needed a new one ($$). Believe it or not, the old one was "welded" together with a generous layer of JB Weld on the back of the harness conector, etc. Couldn't disconnect the harness connector without pulling one of the pins out of the switch either. Not just a car, it's an adventure! All is well with the new harness and switch!
Thanks for the clarification to others!
DZ
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Originally Posted by 67L36Driver
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,817
Likes: 21
From: Somerset, NJ
Originally Posted by Dennis Beck
The switch operating the headlights on my 66 only works now in the down function. In order to get the up side to work I have to play with the switch until I can find the magic spot where it makes contact. Last night I couldn't even do that and had to roll them up by hand. I see this switch is pretty expensive to replace so I want to take a shot at repairing it if I can. I am thinking about the electrical contact cleaner that can be found at Radio Shack. Take the switch out disassemble if I can. Maybe some light steel wool and the contact cleaner. Anybody ever done this or have a better way to clean this switch?
Last edited by ffas23; Oct 6, 2005 at 07:31 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,665
Likes: 60
From: Buffalo New York
I got the switch out of the dash 2 nights ago. I found one of the little black tabs broken off and floating around in the switch. I also found the the plug side of the harness was not being captured by the two little clips as it should have been and allowing the switch to float a bit in the housing. That could have been related to the little tab being broken. I took a points file and cleaned up the contacts and I epoxied the little tab back in place and then let everything dry. Assembled the switch last night and put it back in the car. Put the dash back together and everything works great once again. Thanks everybody for your photos and tips.
Last edited by Dennis Beck; Oct 6, 2005 at 07:22 AM.
