How much to strip a vette??
Here is my scenario
Decklid and hartop were already stripped.
1. Body shop managed to strip 90 percent of the car, but cut into fiberglass with DA sanders. The rear taillamp panel and front grill/below headlight area are not stripped.
2. Doors, hood, hardtop, and decklid are in first coat of filler primer.
3. Headlight buckets were fit(in other words-the area around the headlight buckets were sanded)
What would you expect to pay for this work??
It looks like a lot of work has been done, but if your saying - say 80 grit DA paper has left you problems with some of the fiberglass I don't know. Perhaps a heavy coat of primer.
I have used an 80 DA on a lot of paint work, but always was working on steel.
I am about to have a nervous break down. When i first dropped the car off it was suppose to be media blasted for 2,200, but then something happened and they chose to strip it with a DA sander. I asked how much that would cost comparatively speaking and he said the same amount it just takes longer obvioulsly. Well, they didnt even finish stripping the damn car and all they did with the hood doors decklid and hardtop was spray one coat of primer on them-they havent even been filled or blocked yet. This is going to get ugly. Not to mention the paint on myother car has problems.
I am going to try to cool down over the weekend before i call b/c i think i might start aggressively yelling and threatining if i call anytime soon. Many cold beers will be had this weekend.
I had pulled my engine prior to also which does make it easier.
I have pics after the job ... which I can send along if you like.
addy
From what I can tell 2 k should have sufficed... They definitly took advantage of your dad and didn't HONOR what they told you.. I'm not sure what you pay per hour, but here on LI, NY most places are $60/hr so @2k they have 33hrs and @4k they have 66hrs. I don't even think they hit they 33hrs...
Your wise to cool down over the weekend with some brews, but next week I would tell them to give you back 2k (or stop the check today!!) or have them give you the rest of the $$$ to fix their shoddy workmanship....
Sorry that happened to you...
/joe
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Not a bad idea. I think when they said "something happened and we used the DA instead"......that "something" sounds like more $$$$ ending up in their own pocket. Good luck with this and try to enjoy the holiday.
Than go over on Monday, tell them you put a stop on the check and why and than settle for what was agreed upon although from what I can see even $2k seems awfully high for what has been done so far.






Mark
Mark
very easy to oversand and round off the sharp feature lines of the car.
Someone in the past did that to my car and when it was in for new paint last year my bodyguy.painter had to rebuild up the peaks of the fender because of that as they were too rounded over from oversanding.
I personally feel chemical stripping is by far the safest method to strip a Corvette body - less risk of damage that way. Sanding can round off sharp feature lines and razor method can end up with gouges in the fiberglass that require repair if you aren't extremely careful.
Right now I have the 2nd corvette in a year in the paintshop for a complete strip and repaint and the '65 last year was chemical stripped and this current one is being chemical stripped.
Rich
Captian Lee's seems to be the most popular one.
As Rich stated, water neutralizes it but the painter that did my '65 goes to extremes just to be on the safe side. He has specialized on paining old vettes (only does vettes and only does C1, C2 and C3 cars) for 30 years and it's the only way he strips a car.
He does one panel at a time only.
after stripping a panel he wipes it down with lacquer thinner, than washes with soapy water, rinses with clean water, than another wipe down with lacquer thinner.
Than he moves on to the next panel.
After stripping the entire car he than goes thru the entire cleaning process as listed above again.
After stripping and cleaning the car he lets the car sit for at least two weeks to "vent". This allows any possible remaining chemical residue to vent out of the fiberglass before starting any needed bodywork or prep for paint
As I said, he takes it to extremes but in 30 years he claims he hasn't had a single car come back with solvent popping issues!
I can say that the paint on my '65 is now a year old and no issues at all with solvent popping from the chemical strippers



















