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Clock needs a smack !!!

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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 02:20 AM
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Default Clock needs a smack !!!

My clock in my 1967 Coupe will run if you give it a tap (or a smack), but will quit after 20 minutes or so. If you give it another little smack it will start running again. Anyone had this problem. Possibly remove the clock, clean it with electronics cleaner and lube it with graphite spray???

Vance
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 03:32 AM
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The cleaning sounds correct but I don't know about graphite spray. I had my 63 clock cleaned up by a fellow who does antique house clocks, so you might check with someone like that (or fixes old watches) about what oil to use or not use. Some of that stuff collects dust and hardens over time.

Don
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:22 AM
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I did my clock myself and with the same problem, all lub had dryed a long time ago and the clock works need cleaning I used Alcohol and Q tips. A person that does instrument repair and refurbishment gave me a lubrication mix, here it is one drop of STP to a teaspoon of motor oil and the lub will not dry out. The second thing you should check are the points, yes points in the clock. When points close a solenoid fires, winds the main spring and so on. I think a guy named Goldburg worked on the clock? Once this is done there is a speed adjustment
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 07:24 AM
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Hi!

I cleaned the clock in my 63 as described above and used tach-speedometer graphic lube and it is still ticking!

Ray
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 08:15 AM
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The clock runs on a small relay associated with a coil. The relay closes to all power to build in the coil section (almost acts as a capacitor). Once it reaches power saturation the relay releases so no power runs into the clock. The clock then runs for about 20 minutes or so on this power that has been stored. This prevents the draining of the battery.

This issue I think you will find in the coil itself need to be replaced. Its a very delicate job, they don't produce these anymore (that I know of). OK so that is the worst of it, it also could be as simple as a dirty relay, or bad relay.

I brought it to Corvette Specialties of Maryland and they fixed it in 30 minutes. Clock work great. If you are not going NCRS consider a Quartz clock...they are much better and never break.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tentuna
I did my clock myself and with the same problem, all lub had dryed a long time ago and the clock works need cleaning I used Alcohol and Q tips. A person that does instrument repair and refurbishment gave me a lubrication mix, here it is one drop of STP to a teaspoon of motor oil and the lub will not dry out. The second thing you should check are the points, yes points in the clock. When points close a solenoid fires, winds the main spring and so on. I think a guy named Goldburg worked on the clock? Once this is done there is a speed adjustment
When applying the lub mix you must wipe all excess off, the amount of lub left is not visible. Yes you are correct if you can see the lub it's way to much.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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Make sure that you DON'T use a Q-tip or you will have one fuzzy mess (not to be confused with fuzzy math).
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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The clock's winder is powered up by a set of points, similar to the ones in the distributor. They are inside the clock case. Just have to file them clean and then relube the clock mechanism. Did mine 2 years ago and it's been running fine ever since.

It is a bit of a PIA to get the clock apart and back together again, but it's managable.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by EBVette
The clock runs on a small relay associated with a coil. The relay closes to all power to build in the coil section (almost acts as a capacitor). Once it reaches power saturation the relay releases so no power runs into the clock. The clock then runs for about 20 minutes or so on this power that has been stored. This prevents the draining of the battery.

This issue I think you will find in the coil itself need to be replaced. Its a very delicate job, they don't produce these anymore (that I know of). OK so that is the worst of it, it also could be as simple as a dirty relay, or bad relay.

I brought it to Corvette Specialties of Maryland and they fixed it in 30 minutes. Clock work great. If you are not going NCRS consider a Quartz clock...they are much better and never break.

Ah I alwasy wonderd what that noise coming from the dash every 20 or so min was....
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tentuna
Once this is done there is a speed adjustment
Any advice on how to perform this adjustment? Mine runs fast.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 04:46 PM
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I put a quartz movement in mine about 6 years ago. It keeps perfect time. I got tired of the problems with the origional movement.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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Hope these help. Can send you a PDF if you like. E-mail me at d-zuberer@tamu.edu.
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DZ
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Default excellent file

great post. excellent file. my clock does the same thing and may try cleaning it this winter. thanks.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 09:40 PM
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There is a guy that advertises on the bay for 39 bucks will clean and fix clocks_-i can get his name if anyone is interested--Glenn
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 09:31 AM
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Is there any way of slowing the clock down. Mine runs fine but it gains about an hour a week.
Thanks Craig
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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Craig,

I don't remember too well but I am guessing there is a little lever somewhere on the mechanism to set it faster or slower. I know I have seen these on other mechanical clocks(even old wind-up watches). Hopefully, Jason Oliver will chime in here. You can e-mail him at VetteInstruments@aol.com.

My clock is always wrong because my green **** shuts it down. I always listen for that reassuring "light clunk" on the other side of the firewall as the green **** completes the circuit!

Good luck.

DZ
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by DZVette
Craig,

I don't remember too well but I am guessing there is a little lever somewhere on the mechanism to set it faster or slower. I know I have seen these on other mechanical clocks(even old wind-up watches). Hopefully, Jason Oliver will chime in here. You can e-mail him at VetteInstruments@aol.com.

My clock is always wrong because my green **** shuts it down. I always listen for that reassuring "light clunk" on the other side of the firewall as the green **** completes the circuit!

Good luck.

DZ
Most, if not all mid year clocks, are self=regulating. When you advance or slow the time setting, it also speeds or slows the clock thru a built in gear. You can see how this works (if you're somewhat mechanically inclined) when you get the clock apart, the mechanism effectively lengthens or shortens the mainspring, which drives the escapement mechanism. Yours may be sticking, check it out.

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To Clock needs a smack !!!

Old Sep 1, 2006 | 03:29 PM
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Seems like if you regularly disconnect the battery, and stop the clock, it will keep trying to "self correct". It would correct fast or slow depending on where it previously stopped??
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 01:08 AM
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From the "Owners Guide 1966"

.
Resetting the clock provides automatic regulation providing there is an error, either fast or slow, of at least 3 minutes. No regulation will be introduced if the clock is reset for an error of less than 3 minutes. When resetting, pull out the small **** and turn in the direction in which you wish to set the hands-clockwise if the clock is slow, counterclockwise if the clock is fast. Do not move the hands past the correct time. Your clock should be cleaned and oiled periodically.
.
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Old Sep 2, 2006 | 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by buns
From the "Owners Guide 1966"

.
Resetting the clock provides automatic regulation providing there is an error, either fast or slow, of at least 3 minutes. No regulation will be introduced if the clock is reset for an error of less than 3 minutes. When resetting, pull out the small **** and turn in the direction in which you wish to set the hands-clockwise if the clock is slow, counterclockwise if the clock is fast. Do not move the hands past the correct time. Your clock should be cleaned and oiled periodically.
.
Only thing that is true on that is that it should be cleaned and oiled periodically....the "regulation" never worked...looks like a good idea but the brass gears are just too tight to actually function and give a proper setting...now some might a TAD but 95% don't.

The "smacking" is one of two things either the movement is worn and needs a good cleaning/re oiling or the points are sticking.

Jason
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