howzatt

I searched for a thread on this but had no luck. Is the lead hammer the best way to remove the wheels or does anyone have an opinion on the tools available (wrench jig) to remove the spinners? Thanks

Blk63Vette

Hello

IMO you should ALWAYS use a LEAD hammer to remove and put on knock offs (remenber to remove pin first)...Using a rubber Dead blow hammer...WILL NOT CUT it..

juliosz

Go buy yourself a 6# lead hammer. They usually cost under $30.00. Don't use the hammer in your jack kit as this is just for roadside service. I have not heard any overwhelming testemonials for the pricey tools available.

Paul

BlueShark29

When I bought my '65 Coupe it had KO's on it, for how long I do not know. I tried to use the two different wrenches that are out there, to no avail. I knew that the lead hammer was a one time shot, and the spinners would not budge (even after soaking for weeks with penetrating fluid). I got online to McMaster Carr and ordered a 5# brass hammer and with a couple of hard whacks the spinners came off. Brass is soft enough not to mar the chrome finish and hard enough not to deform itself into a not reuseable hammer.

ctjackster

whack the snot out of them (being sure you are whacking in the right direction) while the wheel is on the ground, using something like this:




http://www.performanceunlimited.com/...ls/hammer.html



gook luck.

justatoy

lead

MosportGreen66

That's the hammer I have. I actually think you told me to buy it about a year and a half ago when I posted the same question. Works great.

MikeM

A piece of PVC pipe to slip over the spinner for protection and a short handled STEEL five ound sledge. Good, solid licks with the weight doing the work. No wild flailing with danger of bouncing off and whacking a fender.

I've been the lead hammer route.

ctjackster

Yes, but have you been the 6 lb lead hammer route? not a mark on the chrome spinners (lead being softer than chrome), and even more oomph than your 5 lb hammer. Plus, since the lead deforms, there is no bounce whatsoever, so no chance of "bouncing off and whacking a fender" as there would be with your steel and pvc pipe system . . . . .

MikeM

No, I haven't tried the 6 lb. lead. Started to buy one and then somebody posted about the pvc and steel sledge on here a couple years ago maybe. I tried it and I liked it. What I really liked was that solid feeling the steel gives compared to the impact absorbing lead. It's real easy to "feel" through the hammer handle when the spinner is tight with the steel. There is no appreciable bounce and like I said, no wild flailing that might result in a whacked fender.

Besides, the steel sledge is available at many yard sales for a buck or two, all you have to do is cut the handle off and a piece of pvc can be picked up free at many new home construction sites.

Just an alternative to the lead. If you like it, go for it.

62Jeff

FYI - This is good advice, but only applies to reproduction knock-offs, and originals that were modified by their owner.

Jeff

knight37128

Get a big hammer, now put it down and get the bigger hammer.

Daoust

I agree, Lead only! To make the job easy jack the car until the wheel contacts the floor only enough to keep it from turning. It makes breaking the knock-off lose, quite easy. Remember to keep from damaging the chrome, use Lead! Good luck

MikeM

It seems to work better for me if the full weight of the car is on the wheel when you knock the spinner loose.

r quicke

Lead hammer on the spinner, whack it with a 5lb sledge, comes right off.

ctjackster

completely, and for those who claim to be whacking their KO spinners while the wheel is up in the air, how do you do this on your front wheels, which will be spinning freely?

gyoder

I just had a problem getting my wheels off due to the nuts being almost frozen on the hubs. No amount of hammering did anything to loosen them (used up a lead hammer). I ended up using a tool that is available at the below company that clamps on the spinner at one end and you use a breaker bar at the opposite end to turn. Got the wheel off with no damage to the hub splines. Also real good for a deep dish wheel where a hammer is hard to swing. It is a little expensive but to each his own. I saved money for a new spinner and a new hub so it was worth the expense (and I no longer need to use up lead hammers). Look under "tools for your car" then the Spinner Tool.

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joec

I think a sawzall will work well also..

Aussie67L71

Maybe the rubber down here in Aussie is tougher than what you guys use, or we swing 'em better, but I've been using rubber dead-blows for 10yrs (on to my 3rd - $10 each) with no problems Best Regards, Gary (Perth, Australia).

RizVet

New to knockoffs (not bolt on type). Is is proper to smack/tighten the spinners after each lengthy ride? Are you supposed to take the center cap off, remove the pin, and then tighten away with the lead hammer? If it moves a little tighter, dont you have to keep tightening to realign the next groove for the pin to seat?