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Console paint problem.

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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 05:04 PM
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Default Console paint problem.

Now that I have most of the interior out of my '62, I have attempted to paint the console twice. Initially, I sanded it, primed it, sanded it again, cleaned it with water, let it dry and then painted it they Seymour black. I got Fisheyes...

I thought maybe there was silicone on the surface, so I took laquer thinner to remove the paint I had just applied and tried again. I got Fisheyes...

What next? It looks as though the console was painted the same maroon color as the car at some point (Enamel?) and then repainted black (Lacquer). The reason I am painting is that it looked so poor. Now I see why.

Should I strip it completely and start over? Can I get the console out to enable easier working indoors? Is it the temperature causing the issue (around 50 degrees in the garage)?

Ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Steve
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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I don't think you can paint successfully at 50F.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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Default temp

Most likely the temp in garage
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 05:54 PM
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The paint will not "flow" as it is designed to do. I worked for Inmont Chemical many years ago and we made aftermarket car paints, among other things like fexible ink and car headliners. The paints were tested at different temperatures and one of the problems of low temp spraying is not only the paint temp, but the material temp it is being applied to. What you call "fisheyes" is the molecular coagulation or the paint.

Go into the kitchen and tell your wife you need to do a little spray painting in there. Trust me, she'll understand.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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I agree with the above. I would also suggest one or two light mist coats. Allow each to dry, then spray how ever many coats you want. The mist coats give the top coats better "adhesion" when spraying certain materials.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 09:07 PM
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Armor All will cause fish eyes.

Don
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 09:13 PM
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If you sanded it first before you cleaned it then you grinded the silicone into the dash and thats why it fish eyed. Don is right, silicone from armor all causes fish eyes. Always clean it before sanding. Clean it again and maybe it will work.
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 09:55 PM
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Another vote for "too cold".
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Old Feb 3, 2007 | 10:53 PM
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TOO cold...and try some etching primer when it warms up...
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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The temp is way too cold. If you are going to paint in 50 degrees use a heat gun to warm the parts and then spray while the heat gun is on to eliminate fish-eyes. Also do not use water as your cleaning product. Use Preps All or Wax and Grease remover (very similar products). If I were you I would start from scratch. Chemically strip the console, Preps all it, Prime it, Preps all again (lightly so the primer does not come off) and then spray black. Make sure to heat the part or use the heat gun.

*Note. Most paint shops that have paint booths paint cars while using the paint booth heater. Temp while painting is very important.
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 02:01 AM
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Everything posted above is correct, but the only other problem is lacquer over enamel, it doesn't work. Strip the enamel off first if you are using lacquer now. Enamel over lacquer is OK.

Sanding the enamel can work, but the texture of the dash prohibits the sanding reaching all surface areas adequitly.
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 05:46 AM
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I don't know anything about painting BUT, when I had my car painted Black (PPG Base / Concept 2002 Clear) I had some Fisheyes right on the hood. I brought it back and they redid the hood. They gave me a box of all the materials they used when they repainted it. One of those items was a can of "PPG Fisheye Eliminator". It is part #DX73. (I've attempted to attach the link to the instructions on how it's used, but if it doesn't get you there just do a search of "PPG DX73")

http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/d...00_DCU2002.pdf

Like I said, I know NOTHING about painting, but the problem was eliminated.
Good Luck,
Vinny
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 07:08 AM
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An old "indian trick" that seems to work is to wipe down the parts with white vinegar.

Don't know the chemistry. I know that vinegar is acetic acid.

That being said, 50 degrees is WAY too cold to spray paint.

Chuck
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Hey... in the process of doing the same thing in my '62... console is my biggest concern at this point... what kind of stripper and primer did you use on the console? I have had to hold off on the painting as the temps have been in the 40s... waiting for it to warm up... have all of the trim pieces in the house to warm up... going to do the "paint outside... bring inside" to cure...
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Old Feb 4, 2007 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
An old "Indian trick" that seems to work is to wipe down the parts with white vinegar.

Don't know the chemistry. I know that vinegar is acetic acid.

That being said, 50 degrees is WAY too cold to spray paint.

Chuck
Chuck and others are on the money. I've painted many corvettes in my prior years. All too often owners would load on the Armor All only to leave me the problem of Fish Eye. Lacquer over Enamel as has been stated is a big "Absolutely Not". Spray some window cleaner on the console. Look at the Chrome portion and see what happened. Did it Bead up noticeably? Whether it did or not is irrelevant but will tell you if someone put a Silicone based dressing on your console.
I'd recommend a harsh cleaner like Simple Green or Mr Clean, diluted 10/90. Mix your cleaner and apply it with a spray bottle, washing multiple times. The spray bottle keeps your wash solvent uncontaminated. Now, again using a spray bottle, a thorough flush with denatured Alcohol. No Wiping! It only spread the bad stuff around. Respray with the soap mix and if it still "Beads Up" repeat. If so additional solvents such as those commercially available "may" help. Do purchase and use commercially available Fish Eye eliminator. Be aware that it contains trace amounts of Silicone in them to bind "like type" substances. Keep us posted. Al W.

Last edited by 67vetteal; Feb 4, 2007 at 01:55 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 05:49 PM
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After you get everything cleaned and warmed up, you might try using "Bulldog Adhesion Promoter" as your primer. It is a clear primer and works great on stubborn areas.
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