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I'm considering having my numbers matching engine rebuilt. I'd prefer not to have the block decked. Should this be my decision or the engine builders? Can the determination be done ahead of time as to whether it needs to be done? I just don't want my pad re-stamped and the engine builder can't stop his milling machine.
The last 2 engines I had I told the builder not to deck the blocks. 1 was a 1957 283 (bored 12 over), the other 327 340hp (bored 40 over). Both builds were fine. Have his check it and if there is anything really out to tell you. Ask for his recommendations and then post what he said here to get a second, third, fourth ninth etc opinion.
i would say DONT deck the block. ive seen lots of rebuilds with no decking and they all work fine. ive done lots of head gasket repairs to and even in severe overheats its the head that warps not the block, we would just have the heads surfaced and screw them back together, never a problem. decking a block is mostly done to correct piston to deck hights on hipo builds. save those numbers, youll be fine.
What does decking the motor really do? Doesn't it just 'square' up the deck and make it 'perfectly' flat to bolt on the heads?
It sure does, it also will allow you to make sure that you have both sides of the block symetrical to the center line of the crank. Unfortunately it also will machine off the numbers on the stamp pad of your block. This effectively makes the numbers matching stamped block an Non Original Motor car after the fact as there is no way to prove it otherwise. Or I guess you could restamp the numbers but then you have to match the font and the broach marks. If you don't care about the Numbers matching game go right ahead. This is you car. JMO. Dave
There's a 99% chance that you don't need to deck your block. Most GM blocks are with in a couple thou. All the blocks that I have checked are dead on. If your Machinist insist on decking it take the block take it somewhere else. The only time I have a block decked is if I want the piston zero decked. My LT1 block that I used for a Blower motor(wanted the most CCs) was .002" corner to corner. Thats better than alot of shops out there will be able to do.
There's a 99% chance that you don't need to deck your block. Most GM blocks are with in a couple thou. All the blocks that I have checked are dead on. If your Machinist insist on decking it take the block take it somewhere else. The only time I have a block decked is if I want the piston zero decked. My LT1 block that I used for a Blower motor(wanted the most CCs) was .002" corner to corner. Thats better than alot of shops out there will be able to do.
That's an interesting statement as it seems that every block that I've come close to is grossly off. Mine in particular was as follows cylinder 1 .022 cylinder 7 .028 cylinder 2 .028 and cylinder 8 .20. Another block was similar. So I just always assumed that as the General was building motors that as long as it was close they were happy.. Needless to say I decked my block as it's not numbers.. I now have each piston .009 to .010 in the hole.. Just my luck.. Dave
All the GM blocks that I have checked are very close to perfect. I have a few Mopar buddies and the blocks that I checked for them were off as much as .015 end to end. Haven't found a good one yet.
If the latter-you can find a junkyard 327 relatively cheap- compared to the total cost of a rebuild -machine it all you want-make it run and look original (maybe even have the machine shop stamp "numbers matching" on the pad) while the original engine sits in the basement or garage.
9.025" is nominal deck height. If the left side is higher then the right, you can deck that side.
I have never seen or heard of a machine shop being able to deck a block and leave the pad. But there is a way to do everything. I would not imagine how you could get the cutter to stop before the pad, and then have it work around the pad, to get the top and bottom. But I guess with C&C machines you could probably do anything.
I watch a computer program run on a block that had the cutting tool moving all over the block cutting away at any and all flat surfaces. I guess it was to lighten the block.
Have the car documented now before doing the rebuild. Still there is no reason why you should not be able to find a builder to deck the block but leave the pad alone.
Unless you are uptight about internal motor parts get the block decked and the motor done right. You can end up with an easy additional 25% of torque and horsepower over what you have now and still have your old numbers left unmolested on the pad.
The only area where you will need to give extra consideration is your head and what your limitations are with your intake and exhaust manifolds.
Almost everyone likes their car more with more power
9.025" is nominal deck height. If the left side is higher then the right, you can deck that side.
I have never seen or heard of a machine shop being able to deck a block and leave the pad. But there is a way to do everything. I would not imagine how you could get the cutter to stop before the pad, and then have it work around the pad, to get the top and bottom. But I guess with C&C machines you could probably do anything.
I watch a computer program run on a block that had the cutting tool moving all over the block cutting away at any and all flat surfaces. I guess it was to lighten the block.
For a number of years now we've been "squaring-up" the deck surfaces while leaving the "pad" untouched. We do a high number of units for "restorations", on the Vette's, Chevelle's, Camaro's, etc.
Before any shops had the "CNC" mill available, it was performed by using both the standard block mill AND the "Bridgeport". They would be "broached" on the block miller up to the pad then placed on the "Bridgeport" to finish the pad area. Numbers remained intact. It was somewhat "labor intensive" but it was "correct".
Now that the "CNC" is in the picture it's a fairly "simple and straight-forward" procedure. Done on the one machine, easily and most accurate!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. It takes all of about 60 minutes to "square" it all up AND leave the original pad and numbers "as-is" from G.M. Remember, not touching the pad leaves the original "broached" area as well here.
Go ahead and deck the block. Who cares about $10,000 of value?
Certainly not ME ! ! ! I wouldn't pay one cent more for a number stamped into a piece of metal that doesn't do anything for the proper operation of the piece.
As others have mentioned, "Decking' is only necessary to cure an out of "True" block. Even so, if such a condition does exist you most likely can reinstall the cylinder head that was on the right side of the block as the mating surfaces are currently compatible. They should remain so in the future. We are not talking about anything but a Naturally Aspirated here. The original numbers on that engine a significant to the car and it's history. Al W.