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Old Oct 16, 2007 | 10:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by piper
...Maybe Jeff and some others that know allot
more than me will jump in
I'm afraid I don't have much to contribute here. The diagram I developed to clarify the different wiring options, always references the Ignitor II, not the Ignitor I module. I too had found the Petronix instructions to be a bit confusing but after a discussion with JohnZ to clarify some things for me, I built this diagram and thought it was going to help people. Now I'm not sure how many warnings or disclaimers I need to add to it about coil rating, heat dissipation, etc.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 12:25 AM
  #22  
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Jeff...after talking the the Pertronix tech today I'm not sure they even know what disclaimers etc. to make. Certainly not your fault that the instructions in the box can be read to go either way with or without the ballast resistor in line. The tech said if it runs well with the resistor in then leave it but I don't see how there can be any voltage advantage for using their coil over a stock one if you do. Still doesn't make alot of sense to me.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 08:21 AM
  #23  
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I guess after all these years I will stick with Points in both my C-2 and C-3. I hear nothing but problems with the Pertronix system on this forum. There is always someone having a problem with it. When is the last time anyone complained of problems they had with points?

If I decide to go electronic I will use the factory GM distributor pre - computer box with the old 4 prong D1906 Delco Module in it. I have that same distributor in my Street Rod and '70 Monte Carlo and no problems whatsoever.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 11:56 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 67-427ci
I use a MSD Blaster-2 coil (rated at .700 ohms) and the PerTronix Ignitor-II and no ballast resistor. No problems at all.

The Blaster-2 instructions state... "WARNING: When using the Blaster coil with a points or stock style distributor, a 0.8 ohm ballast resistor must be used in-line of the positive wire. Failure to use a ballast resistor could result in personal injury or component failure".

The PerTronix Ignitor-II instructions state... "The Ignitor-II can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.6 ohms or greater. To achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor-II, we recommend removal of the ballast resistor".
Roy
Note that there are two different issues here - the Blaster-2 instructions cover the power feed to the coil and require use of the ballast resistor (just like the stock coil) to avoid frying the coil, and the Pertronix Ignitor II instructions relate to the power feed to the Pertronix module, not the coil; the Pertronix techs have ALWAYS said that the module requires a full 12 volts for optimum operation.

If Pertronix would include 62Jeff's diagram in their instructions, it wouldn't be so confusing.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 01:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
Note that there are two different issues here - the Blaster-2 instructions cover the power feed to the coil and require use of the ballast resistor (just like the stock coil) to avoid frying the coil, and the Pertronix Ignitor II instructions relate to the power feed to the Pertronix module, not the coil; the Pertronix techs have ALWAYS said that the module requires a full 12 volts for optimum operation.

If Pertronix would include 62Jeff's diagram in their instructions, it wouldn't be so confusing.
Thanks John, now I am 62Jeff's diagram shows the ballast resistor bypassed when using the Flame Thrower coil. Looking at the spec's on the MSD Blaster-2 coil, they are the same as the Flame Thrower. Have I totally misunderstood the Pertronix Ingitor-II instructions in leaving the ballast resistor out? Am I flirting with a failure? My car is running great and had no problems on my recent 5,000 mile trip to TX.
Thanks, Roy
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 08:34 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JohnZ

If Pertronix would include 62Jeff's diagram in their instructions, it wouldn't be so confusing.
It wouldn't make any difference. It was the flame thrower that died in my car hooked to 12volts.
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Old Oct 17, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Here's the information I got from Pertronix about 5 years ago when I installed the Igniter I and flamethrower coil on mine.
To determine if you system's coil is compatible with the Ignitor, perform the following tests. Caution! While perfoming this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time. Set your voltmeter at 15-20 volt scale. Attach 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive lead of voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resitance wire or resistor is present. A typical resistance wire or resistor will provide 9-6 volts. The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle. Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down. Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage. Four cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Six and eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8.5 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher that the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.
Example: Voltage - 12
Resistance 1.5
12/1.5=8
Total amperage is 8

My Flamethrower coil according to this test did not require a ballast resistor and It has run without problems for 5 year.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by K2
Here's the information I got from Pertronix about 5 years ago when I installed the Igniter I and flamethrower coil on mine.
To determine if you system's coil is compatible with the Ignitor, perform the following tests. Caution! While perfoming this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time. Set your voltmeter at 15-20 volt scale. Attach 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive lead of voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resitance wire or resistor is present. A typical resistance wire or resistor will provide 9-6 volts. The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle. Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down. Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage. Four cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Six and eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8.5 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher that the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor.
Example: Voltage - 12
Resistance 1.5
12/1.5=8
Total amperage is 8

My Flamethrower coil according to this test did not require a ballast resistor and It has run without problems for 5 year.
Thank you K2 for the info. I'll test mine.
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