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I'm running a Pertronix I (1811) Ignitor and Flamethrower Coil in my 327/300 and had a coil failure during a drive yesterday. I have had the Flamethrower coil and ignition setup for 7 or so years without a problem. A few months back after reading about how the resistor should be bypassed if using the above combo, I checked my setup and found I still had the resistor in the circuitry. Reading here that I wouldn't get full voltage with the resistor wired in, I changed it to bypass the resistor and placed all resistor wires on one post. Now I have a failure after a few months. At time of failure, the coil was far too hot to touch and held that heat for a very long time. Luckily I had the original coil with me for replacement and the long drive home.
I've never had a coil go bad on a car. Did I do something wrong by changing the wiring config or do Pertronix coils have a history of going bad?? Would like to know any experiences you've had with this setup since I'm wondering if I want to buy another Flamethrower or something else. Thanks.........dave
Call the Pertronix tech line and check with them; the latest Flamethrower coil is designed to run on 12 volts (no resistor in the circuit), but I believe the older ones still required the resistor.
I'm running a Pertronix I (1811) Ignitor and Flamethrower Coil in my 327/300 and had a coil failure during a drive yesterday. I have had the Flamethrower coil and ignition setup for 7 or so years without a problem. A few months back after reading about how the resistor should be bypassed if using the above combo, I checked my setup and found I still had the resistor in the circuitry. Reading here that I wouldn't get full voltage with the resistor wired in, I changed it to bypass the resistor and placed all resistor wires on one post. Now I have a failure after a few months.
I bought a Pertronix coil to use with my 7 year old Pertronix ignition and a year later the Pertronix coil died. I wired it per the Pertronix instructions for full 12volts, and it fried.
Petronix makes two coils, one is 1.5 Ohms and the other is 3 Ohms. They cannot be mixed. One is to be used with the resistor, the other is to be used without the resistor. I also fried one of their coils as a result of a mismatch. Jerry
Now, I'm really scared. I installed a Accell coil and it failed. I have the same set up you have. I had my distributor rebuilt by T.I. Specialty's as it was in poor shape and did not want any problems with this 40+ year old car I was rebuilding.
The car would die at a stop for no apparent reason. I kept thinking it was a fuel problem. Well guess what, it was the coil, I installed and wired it as instructed. It work intermittently.
I put the old coil back, and it works great.
Called the supplier Jegg's they told me to take a hike, as I had it to long. I tried to explain that the car was under construction and I ordered the part earlier then needed. Sorry your SOL.
I contacted the mfg Accell which is really Mr Gasket. They had me return it and were to send me a new one, that was May of this yr. still waiting. I contacted them and they told me it's still coming. The mfg went out of business[no surprise]and they have a new supplier, and I should get it in the next couple of weeks. Glad I don't need right away.
Dennis
Now, I'm really scared. I installed a Accell coil and it failed. I have the same set up you have. I had my distributor rebuilt by T.I. Specialty's as it was in poor shape and did not want any problems with this 40+ year old car I was rebuilding.
The car would die at a stop for no apparent reason. I kept thinking it was a fuel problem. Well guess what, it was the coil, I installed and wired it as instructed. It work intermittently.
I put the old coil back, and it works great.
Called the supplier Jegg's they told me to take a hike, as I had it to long. I tried to explain that the car was under construction and I ordered the part earlier then needed. Sorry your SOL.
I contacted the mfg Accell which is really Mr Gasket. They had me return it and were to send me a new one, that was May of this yr. still waiting. I contacted them and they told me it's still coming. The mfg went out of business[no surprise]and they have a new supplier, and I should get it in the next couple of weeks. Glad I don't need right away.
Dennis
I know this is a little off subject and even sneaky. When a supplier does not want to warranty a part here is what I've done in a few instances. I'll buy another from them and then say the one I got was defective. Morally wrong yep, am I loosing any sleep over it no. I end up with two of the same component but at least then I have the one I need and a spare.. Just me...
Petronix makes two coils, one is 1.5 Ohms and the other is 3 Ohms. They cannot be mixed. One is to be used with the resistor, the other is to be used without the resistor. I also fried one of their coils as a result of a mismatch. Jerry
I just had the same question. Went to the Pertronix site and they say to use a coil and resistor based on amps drawn. The 1.5 ohm coil would just pass their amp test (NO resistor).
I would call to verify...and PLEASE post your response!!!!!!
I found the paperwork that came with the coil I fried. It was the 1.5 ohm and the instructions say if your ignition circuit has a resistor wire or ballast resistor then LEAVE THEM IN. But the last sentence states "Eight cylinder applications DO NOT REQUIRE a ballast resistor". Confusing??? you bet!! I think I'll call Pertronix like John Z suggested.
I found the paperwork that came with the coil I fried. It was the 1.5 ohm and the instructions say if your ignition circuit has a resistor wire or ballast resistor then LEAVE THEM IN. But the last sentence states "Eight cylinder applications DO NOT REQUIRE a ballast resistor". Confusing??? you bet!! I think I'll call Pertronix like John Z suggested.
I asked this question because,When i got my car the resister was hooked in line(been that way for 4 years) .I read what you did ,but the Pertronix paperwork, said take it out of the mix. So we took the resister out of the mix. Now i have not drove the car that much ,so no trouble yet. Please ,please post what they say Thanks
My neighbor just purchased a 1.5 ohm Pertronix coil last month and I just went over and asked if he had the instructions. Mine had been printed in 5/99 and his on 1/03. They now have a chart for 1.5 and 3.0 coils and whether a resistor is needed or not. I wouldn't think there'd be any more recent instructions than with the coil he got from Summit last month. Here's the chart info.
1.5 ohm....8 cyl all applications...............remove resistor
4 & 6 cyl racing applications....remove resistor
4 & 6 cyl normal applications... keep resistor in place
3.0 ohm....8 cyl all applications...............coil not recommended
4 & 6 cyl racing applications....coil not recommended
4 & 6 cyl normal applications....remove resistor
I think I"ll still call them and I'll post what they say.
My neighbor just purchased a 1.5 ohm Pertronix coil last month and I just went over and asked if he had the instructions. Mine had been printed in 5/99 and his on 1/03. They now have a chart for 1.5 and 3.0 coils and whether a resistor is needed or not. I wouldn't think there'd be any more recent instructions than with the coil he got from Summit last month. Here's the chart info.
1.5 ohm....8 cyl all applications...............remove resistor
4 & 6 cyl racing applications....remove resistor
4 & 6 cyl normal applications... keep resistor in place
3.0 ohm....8 cyl all applications...............coil not recommended
4 & 6 cyl racing applications....coil not recommended
4 & 6 cyl normal applications....remove resistor
I think I"ll still call them and I'll post what they say.
It occurs to me that Pertronix still doesn't have a clue. Here are some highlights from the instructions for the part numbers 1164,1165 and 1181.
The ignitor is compatible only with a points style coil with a minimum resistance of 1.5 ohms.
If your ignition system presently has a ballast resistor, do not remove it.
To check coil resistance, remove all wiring from it and place the test leads on the positive and negative terminals. You must have at least 1.5 ohms ( they don't say what the maximum is ).
And, the wiring diagram:
Thanks Buns....I think the last note at the bottom of the diagram says it all. "not to be changed in any way" from original setup. Why don't they just say that on the installation instructions. They must have changed their thinking since the 01/03 instruction sheet included with the coil my neighbor just bought. they don't have a clue!!
I guess I fried it by the change to non-resistor....Oh well, I've made more costly mistakes. This one was only $30!!
Petronix makes two coils, one is 1.5 Ohms and the other is 3 Ohms. They cannot be mixed. One is to be used with the resistor, the other is to be used without the resistor. I also fried one of their coils as a result of a mismatch. Jerry
I don't check coils that I buy with an ohm meter, nor do I check web sites for knowledgeable users to tell me how to test new products - in order to install them correctly.
I use the manufacturers instructions and if the product dies in a relatively short period of time, I find another supplier. I think I'm being reasonable. IMO there are too many vendors with good products and good installation instructions to accept substandard components.
Talked to a Pertronix tech today and he said to leave the resistor in the circuit with the Flamethrower coil and Ignitor module as long as the car runs well that way. The Ignitor module needs only 6 volts to function properly. If the car is used for long drives, cruises, etc the resistor should stay to prevent excess heat in the coil. If the car is used for short trips or racing it would be okay to bypass the resistor since there wouldn't be the long term heat buildup issue. Bottom line of the conversation was that if the engine runs smooth with the coil, resistor and module in place then leave it alone.
He couldn't explain the variations in instructions nor the fact that the instructions I have that were printed as late as 1/03 said to remove the resistor.
My car ran fine for years before removing the resistor from the circuit so I'll return to that setup.
Thanks for all the input and experiences from you guys!!
Talked to a Pertronix tech today and he said to leave the resistor in the circuit with the Flamethrower coil and Ignitor module as long as the car runs well that way. The Ignitor module needs only 6 volts to function properly. If the car is used for long drives, cruises, etc the resistor should stay to prevent excess heat in the coil. If the car is used for short trips or racing it would be okay to bypass the resistor since there wouldn't be the long term heat buildup issue. Bottom line of the conversation was that if the engine runs smooth with the coil, resistor and module in place then leave it alone.
He couldn't explain the variations in instructions nor the fact that the instructions I have that were printed as late as 1/03 said to remove the resistor.
My car ran fine for years before removing the resistor from the circuit so I'll return to that setup.
Thanks for all the input and experiences from you guys!!
Thanks for calling and posting what they said. This is going to open up a can of worms. I thought one of the good reason for using the
Pertronix was to give you the 12 volts ,so you would get more spark Maybe Jeff and some others that know allot more than me will jump in
I use the acell 300+ with the regular coil & no resistor.....works great
10 years now.......still have the resistor mounted for looks only or if
i ever need to switch back on the road some where........
I use a MSD Blaster-2 coil (rated at .700 ohms) and the PerTronix Ignitor-II and no ballast resistor. No problems at all.
The Blaster-2 instructions state... "WARNING: When using the Blaster coil with a points or stock style distributor, a 0.8 ohm ballast resistor must be used in-line of the positive wire. Failure to use a ballast resistor could result in personal injury or component failure".
The PerTronix Ignitor-II instructions state... "The Ignitor-II can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at 0.6 ohms or greater. To achieve optimum performance from the Ignitor-II, we recommend removal of the ballast resistor".
Roy