Starting problems
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 4
UPDATE DECEMBER 4th
UPDATE:
I just pulled the distributor from my car and put it in my fathers. The problem is still there. I then switched out the coil and the distributor cap and the problem is still the same-NO START or stumble.
i checked to make sure there is spark at the coil wire and at the number 1 spark plug and there is. My timing light wasnt showing it for some reason, but it is there when i hook up a spark plug to the wires and ground it to the engine.
Do you think this could be an engine ground problem??
The engine has two wires, one running from each engine mount to the frame. The negative battery cable is mounted to the rear of the bellhousing with the wire from the starter harness grounded in the same location.
Thanks again for the help and ideas. I certainly need it at this point.
I just pulled the distributor from my car and put it in my fathers. The problem is still there. I then switched out the coil and the distributor cap and the problem is still the same-NO START or stumble.
i checked to make sure there is spark at the coil wire and at the number 1 spark plug and there is. My timing light wasnt showing it for some reason, but it is there when i hook up a spark plug to the wires and ground it to the engine.
Do you think this could be an engine ground problem??
The engine has two wires, one running from each engine mount to the frame. The negative battery cable is mounted to the rear of the bellhousing with the wire from the starter harness grounded in the same location.
Thanks again for the help and ideas. I certainly need it at this point.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Thanks all!
I have 12 volts going to the coil on both sides.
I hooked a test light up and it started to go on off on off, but then went to dim, bright, dim, bright and continued to do so the next several times we cranked the car with the occassional off-bright.
What does this mean-pertronix, rotor, cap??
I have 12 volts going to the coil on both sides.
I hooked a test light up and it started to go on off on off, but then went to dim, bright, dim, bright and continued to do so the next several times we cranked the car with the occassional off-bright.
What does this mean-pertronix, rotor, cap??
If it's bright/dim/bright/dim, I'd say your Pertronix isn't breaking to let the coil fire. That's the way it is with points. That's on the - side of the coil that goes to the distributor.
Last edited by MikeM; Dec 14, 2007 at 11:54 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
Thanks all!
I have 12 volts going to the coil on both sides.
I hooked a test light up and it started to go on off on off, but then went to dim, bright, dim, bright and continued to do so the next several times we cranked the car with the occassional off-bright.
What does this mean-pertronix, rotor, cap??
I have 12 volts going to the coil on both sides.
I hooked a test light up and it started to go on off on off, but then went to dim, bright, dim, bright and continued to do so the next several times we cranked the car with the occassional off-bright.
What does this mean-pertronix, rotor, cap??
If it's bright/dim/bright/dim, I'd say your Pertronix is not breaking to let the coil fire. That's the way it is with points. That's on the - side of the coil that goes to the distributor.
I read your update while I was typing this. Somethig doesn't add up here.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 49
From: Ventura Calif
John
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 4
What i was saying was that it appeared to be out of whack before. I pulled the distributor and reset it so that when the car is at 10 BTDC the rotor button is pointing to the 7-8 o clock position.
UPDATE December 4th @ 10:45pm
I pulled the valve covers and it hasnt jumped a tooth on the timing gear. The car exhales very healthy as it rotate up to TDC on the number 1 cylinder and right after it lines up on the 0 mark on the balancer. This is just so bizzare since the car was running fine once started. The timing might have been off just a touch, but nothing extreme.
Before i took anything off the car or messed with anything i did try to move the distributor clockwise and counterclockwise to see if it would crank-nothing.
UPDATE December 4th @ 10:45pm
I pulled the valve covers and it hasnt jumped a tooth on the timing gear. The car exhales very healthy as it rotate up to TDC on the number 1 cylinder and right after it lines up on the 0 mark on the balancer. This is just so bizzare since the car was running fine once started. The timing might have been off just a touch, but nothing extreme.
Before i took anything off the car or messed with anything i did try to move the distributor clockwise and counterclockwise to see if it would crank-nothing.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,671
Likes: 10
From: california
you got spark, you got gas, and you said the dist. seemed to be in the wrong position. CHECK THE TIMING CHAIN--pull the dist cap and push on the fan belt while moving the fan back and fourth while looking at the dist. rotor. if you can move the crank more than 10 degrees (sometimes a lot more) before the rotor moves you need a chain. 
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 4
Unfortunately that is not the case-everything is tight as a drum. I think the timing was just out a little before from the last person that set it. I just adjusted the valves and it gave out a quick kick like it was going to start, but then it stopped and now only turns over and over again. Unfortunately i am running out of free time so i think i will winch it on my trailer and drop it off at a good speed shop tomorrow.
Unless of course, anybody can think of something else i should check.
Perhaps i will add a larger ground strap from the engine to the frame before i give up.
Unless of course, anybody can think of something else i should check.
Perhaps i will add a larger ground strap from the engine to the frame before i give up.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 768
Likes: 0
From: Leavenworth Washington
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 4
Any idea why it would do that with three different pertronix kits. The old one, a new one just installed, and a proven one on a different distributor from my 65 corvette??
Thanks
Is there anyway that this could be a ground issue?
Thanks
Is there anyway that this could be a ground issue?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
If you want to test this, just run a wire from the distributor to the - side of the battery.
You don't have to have the distributor in the engine to do the test light thing. You can lay it on the manifold and twirl the gear with the fingers. Same thing. Light should flash.
I suggest you get a point distributor and try it.
Last edited by MikeM; Dec 5, 2007 at 10:29 AM.
Racer
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 269
Likes: 0
From: Berea, KY, USA
I see you adjusted the valves......and now it will not run.....
Probably have the valves too tight....will cause exactly what you discribe. back everyone off 1/2 turn if hydrolic lifters and give it a try. Get it running then readjust the valves.
Dave62
Probably have the valves too tight....will cause exactly what you discribe. back everyone off 1/2 turn if hydrolic lifters and give it a try. Get it running then readjust the valves.
Dave62
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 4
Dave-the valves are fine. I only adjusted them last night. If you go back and read, the car hasnt run in about 1-1/2 weeks. It started out slow-had trouble starting and now will not start.
I loosened the valves last night, let them sit for 45 minutes, then went back and only gave them 1/2 turn after i felt tension on the pushrod. Adjusted intake when exhaust for that particular cylinder was opening and adjusted exhaust when intake on that cylinder was just about to close.
On another note-I tried the jumper wire today from the positive wire to the positive side of the coil. This was recommended as worth a try by a mechanic.
However, i have not yet had a chance to try the jumper wire from the negative post to the negative side of the coil. I'll call my father and get him to go out to the garage and give it a go.
Thanks all!
I loosened the valves last night, let them sit for 45 minutes, then went back and only gave them 1/2 turn after i felt tension on the pushrod. Adjusted intake when exhaust for that particular cylinder was opening and adjusted exhaust when intake on that cylinder was just about to close.
On another note-I tried the jumper wire today from the positive wire to the positive side of the coil. This was recommended as worth a try by a mechanic.
However, i have not yet had a chance to try the jumper wire from the negative post to the negative side of the coil. I'll call my father and get him to go out to the garage and give it a go.
Thanks all!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
There's no reason to look at the ballast resistor if your test light lights up at the coil. Besides, you've already bypassed the resistor when you wired from the battery to the coil.
Your distributor(s) is NOT breaking the coil circuit as evidenced by you saying the test light went dim/bright/dim/bright.
mike
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 4
I got it to run yesterday for a few seconds by squirting some oil into the cylinders and clamping off the fuel line. That was it though. After that it just cranked and cranked like it had no compression again.