Aircraft (military aircraft anyway) are described by logisticians as, "...two million separate parts flying together in tight formation".

Although the underlying science concerning reliability is universal the aircraft industry parameters applied (largely due to safety), based on the science, are not.

Which is why aircraft engines are overhauled after several hundred hours and the systems have so much redundancy. When I worked as an engineer on Navy/Marine aircraft every part I touched had my personal "artisan's stamp" on the permanent paperwork (# 4AC97) - I remember the number 35 years later! If one of my components failed (and God forbid a life lost) I was directly responsible.

The consequences of being stranded roadside are considerably less than a system failure at 35,000 feet and 500 MPH....so we should be careful with such comparisons. The science is relevant but its application is vastly different.

When our C1s and C2s break the sound barrier (see pic) I'll be a little more concerned about breaking down !!

But we have drifted far from the topic - it appears that the OP has 4 options:

1) Stay with points
2) Install a points 'under the cap' electronic conversion.
3) Install a complete electronic ignition control system (e.g. an MSD with advanced tuning capability)
4) Install a hybrid (with an electronic box controlled by the factory points acting only as a switch)

Discussions have been presented pros/cons (largely anecdotal) for each option and so he must decide which approach he wants to tackle.

 

Not really- C3 Corvettes have a sensor and warning light to advise when half the brake system has gone out. It's ironic that the brakes need to be applied in the failed state for the warning to be activated, and that the device used by GM to detect the failure partially inhibits full function of the remaining system.

Modern cars have all sorts of warning lights to advise when the vehicle is operating in an abnormal state and have a multitude of back up systems to get you home. The flow down of technology from space-> aviation-> automotive applications is nothing new. I once came across some drawings for the brakes on a mid 50s Fokker aircraft. Guess what showed up on Corvettes less than 10 years later? Almost a spitting image.

My experience (I received my 30 year service pin at work yesterday) is in the design manufacturing and reliability engineering end in the civilian sector. I work at world's largest gas turbine engine manufacturer. The word 'dependable' is in our logo.

But as you said, we digress.

 

My keyboard is wireless so it is not plugged in, and ironically enough, since I'm on a laptop, it does have a redundant backup.

 

Bowtyebob,

I've been following this post for some time and I agree with Tom and Frank regarding the conversion kits. I've personally been using the Lectric Limited Breakerless unit for years in my '62 and it's performed flawlessly. The main reason that I went to the conversion unit was to eliminate "spark scatter". I was having trouble with spark knock and the associated difficulties. I rebuilt the distributor with the conversion unit, new advance springs and weights, vacuum canister, etc, etc, etc,. Installed new plugs and wires. Had Bob Kunz rebuild the carb and she's been running like a dream ever since. Take the time to do it right and you should have no problems! My $.02 worth.

 

Back to the OP.
Sounds like you got plenty of opinions on what to do or not to do.
Many years ago (to many to remember) I installed a new product ( back then)
Mallory uni-lite point replacement and a higher voltage coil. I always kept a set of points
in the glove box (just in case) Well after a dozen years @50,000 miles and several eng. rebuilds the points are still in the glove box. Its on all my older cars, never had one fail.
Hummm... I did buy a spare module years ago also. I guess I should put that in the glove box also, according so some posts it must be pure dang luck it's lasted so dang long?

 

One last parting shot. Took my car over to gas up and ran into a fellow gear head. We started talking cars and out of nowhere he asked if I converted from points yet, on account of he had installed a Pertronix Ignitor II in his stock and restored 65 Nova and ....(Ta da) you guessed it. His car suffered EXACTLY the same symptoms as mine. After wrestling with it for a couple weeks, he surrendered, removed the distributor, reinstalled a new Echlin uniset points and condenser, and told me that his Nova now runs the way it's supposed to. I left the gas station and drove to CarQuest and bought an extra Uniset which is now in the glove box along with a screwdriver amd a 1/8 in. allen wrench. End of story.
Hmm. 64 threads. Apparently this is a hot button subject.

 

...Just one other thing. Anyone who has spent any significant time around those early 'High Peformance' 327s 300, 340HP, etc. with the 1.94 or the 2.02 intake valves in the 461 or 461X heads is probably aware of just how fussy they can be when it comes to overall performance. If things aren't just right they simply won't run right and they are VERY particular about carb and distributor 'curve' being a matched set, right down to intake manifold heat when the ambient temperature drops to below 80 - 85 degrees and the under hood temperature is below 95 -100. These engines WILL respond somewhat favorably to a mild increase in total mechanical advance, but only if the 'factory' curve is NOT altered up the RPM where the 'increase' over stock begins and/or a possible 2 additional degrees of initial advance, say from 8 up to 10 and usually no more. That said, could it be that the Ignitor II from Pertronix 'fiddled' with the dwell just enough to upset timing sufficiently to cause my problem? I suspect, but don't know. What I do know is that after reinstalling breaker points, the engine runs fine through it's entire range from idle to past 6000 RPM from light load to full load with no hesitations, no bog, no problem. Nuff said.

 

Its a matter of degree.

I don't think an automobile 'brake warning light' quite compares to a 'Master Caution' light on an aircraft instrument panel.

Congrats on your 30-year pin (seriously)...but I earned my spurs in the aviation industry and the comparisons pale pretty quickly between those requirements and nearly anything else except space flight.

 

So stay with points - I have a 6700RPM redline in a solid lifter 283 with the hi-lift cam and dual carbs and the Pertronix takes me there and back without a hiccup....so we are both satisfied.

 

I have to jump in on this one. Buy the CRANE MODULE! It's awesome and has a rev limiter built in. Reliable and just great. No more points going bad. AND YES keep a spare one on hand or a set of points. I have never had one fail. Spins to 7500 all the time!!!!!
Lou