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Heat Riser Problem..

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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by magicv8
IMO none.

It will not take longer to warm up either. All a properly operating heat riser does is send
more heat under the carburetor to assist earlier vaporization in cold weather. The engine
warms up at the same rate.

With today's fuels, I believe the heat riser is unnecessary, and I took the blocking plate
out of my heat riser about 15 years ago. I also blocked off the intake manifold ports that
send hot exhaust to the base of the carb.

My car starts and runs fine even in single digit cold weather in Illinois, Wisconsin,
Colorado, and Montana, and I have the choke in my carburetor disconnected.
I think today's high quality premium fuels (particularly winter blends) vaporize and start more easily by nature, than fuels from back in the day, even with lower octane (read more volatile).
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 06:56 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Riz71WBY
I have a 71 AC car that spews heavy vapor on the right side and nothing to speak of on the left
(not smoke but vapor) side even after a 15 minute idle. Could a stuck control valve cause this? Its bothersome to see. Thanks
It's could very likely it's stuck closed or partially closed. But, if properly working it will be closed at idle (hot or cold) and you will have exhaust out of one side only. With the hood open you should see the weight on the valve rotate when you rev the engine up. It will open up only when the exhaust flow counteracts the spring or the counterweight that keeps it closed.

I would wire it open or remove it - it's been so long since I've messed with one of these that I had forgot about muffler life until reading the above posts. It used to be common to go through several sets of passenger side mufflers and pipes before the driver side rusted out.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 11:39 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mscaggs
For 20 bucks I just ordered the spacer and called it good.
$20 bucks + tax + shipping. My procedure costs nothing and took 5 minutes and I have twenty bucks more than you right now.
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:05 PM
  #24  
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isnt the heat riser critical to proper choke operation? Taking it out might disrupt the choke...no?
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #25  
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Everytime I check under the hood, I give it 2 or 3 manual cycles and have never had a problem with it in 25 years.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 11:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Riz71WBY
isnt the heat riser critical to proper choke operation? Taking it out might disrupt the choke...no?
Yes, it's essential to the operation of '66-'67 chokes, which use the remote thermostatic coil mounted in a well on the crossover passage in the intake manifold. Pre-'66 chokes use hot air from the exhaust manifold.
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Old Jan 10, 2011 | 12:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Ron Miller
The biggest effect I believe you'll see is much longer right side muffler and exhaust system life, especially if you do very much short trip driving. Lots of us have already wired the heat riser valve open permanently. Or, replace it with the spacer used on FI cars . . .

Ditto on the longer life. I put all new pipes on about 25 years ago, and after 10 years the right exhaust wore out and I had to replace it. I have had the valve wired open and then removed since then. I have been able to run without chokes in FL for 30 years now but this global warming can make it challenging the first mile or so.
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Old Feb 18, 2011 | 10:58 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mscaggs
http://www.etvette.com/heatrisers.htm

Make sure all call as the email address is not correct on his site. Nice guy too BTW..


I second the nice guy and great service. Website email is old....East Tennesse Vette.....current email jacketvette@gmail.com , his name is Jack, he knows exhaust, one man operation that is never too busy to answer a question or talk cars....I like that!

http://www.etvette.com/index.html

Keith
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