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what are the tricks to adjusting door latch - 1960

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Old 06-02-2010, 04:45 PM
  #21  
jimh_1962
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The doors are the worst ones... Now, my driver door lock will not disengage and I thought I was done with the doors.

The doors, windshield, dash pad, gas tank straps and dash insert are all PITA!
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:38 PM
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Frankie the Fink
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Oh quit whining....folks on the '60s GM assembly lines did those little jobs in a few minutes...dozens of times a day.
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Oh quit whining....folks on the '60s GM assembly lines did those little jobs in a few minutes...dozens of times a day.
Was that your positive-thinking Mantra you used while installing your dash pad? I said something similar when I installed mine - "It can't be this hard, it can't be this hard!"
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Old 06-03-2010, 04:24 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DZVette
Herb

I agree with Robert (My58). Adjusting that rod pivot fixed a hanging latch on our '60 passenger door.

Pics in attached PDF might help you get the lay of the land.

Dave Z
you know, the more I look at the photo, I can't help but think that the darn rod is in the lever backwards.....I am not sure, but the more I look at it the more I wonder. I am in Vegas right now, but when I get home, the door panel will come back off and I will take a look again. I also wonder if in the rebuild of the car if I got those switched between passenger and driver door.....wouldnt be the first time....there is something wrong though....and I am bound and determined to get it so that it works 90%+ of the time in stead of 10% of the time......thanks to Dave and everyone else....like was said before, this isnt rocket science, but when you are locked out and the door isnt locked, it sure seems like it is!
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Old 06-03-2010, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
Oh quit whining....folks on the '60s GM assembly lines did those little jobs in a few minutes...dozens of times a day.
and they must have had little hands too! no body with big hands was in those doors trying to keep up with the line......
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Old 06-03-2010, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by firstgear
you know, the more I look at the photo, I can't help but think that the darn rod is in the lever backwards.....I am not sure, but the more I look at it the more I wonder. !
That's what I was telling you in my earlier post and why I supplied the pictures. My painter put my doors together AFU and I found clips missing and lock rods in backwards....I gave him the AIM to use but he 'winged' it and made mistakes...

Frank
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Old 06-03-2010, 09:43 AM
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Oh yea, wait till you have to put on that small "C" clip.
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Old 06-03-2010, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by firstgear
and they must have had little hands too! no body with big hands was in those doors trying to keep up with the line......
Small hands and double jointed arms and shoulders. I am sure they were skinnier and shorter back then.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:28 AM
  #29  
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I have a pair of straight and curved hemostats for such tiny jobs:
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CDwQ9QEwAw

I've had the same set for 35 years and every tool box should have a pair for electrical and other detail work.
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I have a pair of straight and curved hemostats for such tiny jobs:

I've had the same set for 35 years and every tool box should have a pair for electrical and other detail work.
My hands can still do most tasks, its my eyes that are the problem now! For example on the door project in discussion, I can get all the linkages and pieces together no problem, Its getting the kotter pin / retaining clips through the dang needle hole is the problem. Even with cheaters my depth perception is a bit off.

The joys of old age...
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Old 06-03-2010, 11:54 AM
  #31  
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"Even with cheaters my depth perception is a bit off.

The joys of old age..."


I can sure relate to that, I wear progressive trifocals! Makes jobs like this one inside the door or doing stuff under the dash a real adventure.

Good luck with this one Herb. I'm betting on your success!

Dave Z

Last edited by DZVette; 06-03-2010 at 12:52 PM.
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Old 06-03-2010, 12:06 PM
  #32  
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Joys of old age.

Yep I have a sweet spot too close no good too far no good...
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Old 06-07-2010, 10:43 PM
  #33  
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Default rod was installed correctly......

however, if I compare the new rod (from Paragon) and the rod I had in the door, while they both look to result in the ends in the same place, there are differences in the bends and clearances. New rod on the LEFT.


I am not sure if these differences contribute to difficultly in pressing the button and releasing the star or not....

I also did not previously install the washer and spring. Perhaps this aggregated the situation. Perhaps not. At any rate, I am trying to figure out what everyone did to keep the washer from sliding down the rod along with the spring.

I want to take the rod and try and lift a burr up where I want the washer to stop.

What did everyone else do? I saw in one of the PDF files that the spring and washer had slid down the rod and were not really doing anything.

Comments on what did you do to keep the washer and spring from sliding down the rod???


I also saw why the door handle button didn't work, the darn end of the rod had come off the latch mechanism. Fortunately I had bought some new clips since I think the old existing clip was a bit worn in terms of its spring retention.

Let me know what you did to keep the washer and spring in place......

thanks, Herb
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Old 06-08-2010, 06:52 AM
  #34  
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I told you early on the rod might have slipped off!

I saw the same deal with the washer and spring so I looked at the AIM and even that venerable document had two different means of installation (see attachment). I went with the method at the top of the picture that ensures the washer stays in place ... meaning the spring and washer components are on the 'cotter pin' side of the door button actuator plate.

Did it on both doors and there hasn't been a problem in 4 months.

I think the main point of the spring is to make sure the rod doesn't 'wallow around' in the hole and make for sloppy operation. Either means of installing the spring stabilizes the rod but only one makes sure the washer doesn't ride down the rod and make the ***'y ineffective.

Interestingly...in this additional PDF you will see the spring mounted as I recommend above (top photo on Page 2) and AFTER the new door handle reinforcement, etc. is done (bottom photo on Page 2) you will see it mounted in the manner that lets the washer and spring drop out of place. I'm betting the top photo is an original configuration.
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:05 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
I told you early on the rod might have slipped off!

I saw the same deal with the washer and spring so I looked at the AIM and even that venerable document had two different means of installation (see attachment). I went with the method at the top of the picture that ensures the washer stays in place ... meaning the spring and washer components are on the 'cotter pin' side of the door button actuator plate.

Did it on both doors and there hasn't been a problem in 4 months.

I think the main point of the spring is to make sure the rod doesn't 'wallow around' in the hole and make for sloppy operation. Either means of installing the spring stabilizes the rod but only one makes sure the washer doesn't ride down the rod and make the ***'y ineffective.

Interestingly...in this additional PDF you will see the spring mounted as I recommend above (top photo on Page 2) and AFTER the new door handle reinforcement, etc. is done (bottom photo on Page 2) you will see it mounted in the manner that lets the washer and spring drop out of place. I'm betting the top photo is an original configuration.
yup....thanks Frankie for having patience with me! I can see the one with the springs and washers mounted on the clip side working. I will follow that route. Should be fun to get all that in there and my hands and the clip without it all falling into the bottom of the door.....stand by....will make a run at it tonight. Super Chevy show this weekend at Summit Motor Sports Park (Norwalk Dragway) and I plan to take the 60 and the '37 Ford (396 supercharged chevy motor).

I just wanted to make sure that the darn door opened and shut nicely.....
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Old 06-08-2010, 01:57 PM
  #36  
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You'll get it done easily.....I mean; ain't likes its a hardtop or something
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Old 06-08-2010, 02:28 PM
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Herb,

Take a small thin piece of old pinstriping and use it like tape straight across the parts to make the washers and spring one piece. after the fastner is inserted just pull the pinstriping off.

If you have a big magnet or a magnet on a pole, place it at the inside bottom of the door. When / if pieces fall the magnet will usually suck it up as opposed to it bouncing and going under window stop or other bracketry.

Take your time and do not let it frustrate you. Always remember working on these are labors of love.

My bet is on you, I know you will be victorious!
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Old 06-08-2010, 03:17 PM
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Such things never seem to be that hard for me. Unlike my proctologist I have very skinny fingers.
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:17 PM
  #39  
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Default Victory!!!!

After trying to get the spring and washer on while assembly was inside the door panel, I decided there had to be an easier way.

So, I took the door handle off the car and assembled the rod and adjustable pin. This was much easier to get it put together. But now I had to get the door handle back in place, but before I did that I took the key lock out to make more room (this was a real good idea I had, made it much easier). But that darn spring had a mind of its own and I ended up having to wrestle with the rod as it was walking in the hole because of the spring. That made it not too much fun. But after I fussed and fussed, I was able to get the rod in the right position and in the clip.

All rods are in place and the door push button works great and I believe that it will be in good shape going forward.

On a side note, I installed the reproduction latch mechanism from Corvette Central and I give it two thumbs UP!


Thanks to everyone and their help!
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Old 06-08-2010, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by my58
Herb,

Take a small thin piece of old pinstriping and use it like tape straight across the parts to make the washers and spring one piece. after the fastner is inserted just pull the pinstriping off.

If you have a big magnet or a magnet on a pole, place it at the inside bottom of the door. When / if pieces fall the magnet will usually suck it up as opposed to it bouncing and going under window stop or other bracketry.

Take your time and do not let it frustrate you. Always remember working on these are labors of love.

My bet is on you, I know you will be victorious!
thanks, there were only a few words muttered under my breath tonight....about 1.75 hours to get it sorted out and all back together with the door panel and the door/window and lock pulls.

thank you for your comments and insight!
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