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C2 Alignment spec analysis needed

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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 10:41 PM
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Default C2 Alignment spec analysis needed

Just had the '63 aligned at Southwest Alignment on Richmond in Houston. The owner did the work. He was very careful and allowed me to work in unison with him. It was Friday,hot as hell. He did it on a drop in. I don't mind going back for a re-tune on an off day.
Those in the know? Please analyze my specs? My rear tire fender clearance has been reduced since re-doing my trailing arms. Any suggestions for adjustments to increase clearance?

Left front Right Front

Camber: .03 Deg .25 Deg

Caster: 1.06 1.45

Toe: .08 .21



Left Rear: Right rear

Camber: .14 .19

Toe: .10 .09


Thanks in advance.

Last edited by MiguelsC2; Aug 23, 2010 at 10:44 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 11:10 PM
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Setting negative camber on the rear will help with you rear fender clearance (also help with handling). VB & P has a very interesting table on alignment specs. http://www.vbandp.com/Tech-Info/ There is a pdf file you can download with the info here.
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Old Aug 23, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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On my last alignment the finished specs were:

Front Left/Right
Camber -0.4/-0.4
Caster 4.1/3.9
Toe 1/16 / 1/16

Rear Left/Right
Camber -0.6/-0.4
Toe 1/16 / 1/16

Car steers effortlessly (jeep P/S box upgrade) and tracks straight down the road. Tires are 205/75R15 on six inch rims.

Rich
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sttexan
Just had the '63 aligned at Southwest Alignment on Richmond in Houston. The owner did the work. He was very careful and allowed me to work in unison with him. It was Friday,hot as hell. He did it on a drop in. I don't mind going back for a re-tune on an off day.
Those in the know? Please analyze my specs? My rear tire fender clearance has been reduced since re-doing my trailing arms. Any suggestions for adjustments to increase clearance?

Left front Right Front

Camber: .03 Deg .25 Deg

Caster: 1.06 1.45

Toe: .08 .21



Left Rear: Right rear

Camber: .14 .19

Toe: .10 .09


Thanks in advance.
With 1.06 caster on the left and 1.45 on the right. it will probably pull left a little.
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 09:39 AM
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I agree with Wayne..the specs do not mention the cross camber or caster tolerances which is generally the left reading minus the right.

Anything more than 0.5 degrees could induce a pull or lead....

john
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:26 AM
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right to left differences might be a road camber (drainage) compensation. The rear camber ought to be around -1 degree. As others have suggested it will increase clearance and keep the rear end planted in corners. I'll also agree that VBP has some good recommendations on alignment.

Harry
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by John BX NY
I agree with Wayne..the specs do not mention the cross camber or caster tolerances which is generally the left reading minus the right.

Anything more than 0.5 degrees could induce a pull or lead....

john

Cross camber is .22
Cross caster is .39
Total toe is .29
Set back is .13

Last edited by MiguelsC2; Aug 24, 2010 at 12:16 PM.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 02:05 AM
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Anymore opinions before I head back to the alignment shop?
Do the fronts need negative camber?
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 1sttexan
Anymore opinions before I head back to the alignment shop?
Do the fronts need negative camber?
For normal "street" operation, front camber should be zero, and rear camber should be zero-to-1/2* negative.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
For normal "street" operation, front camber should be zero, and rear camber should be zero-to-1/2* negative.
John -- any different for repro bias ply (say, 4-Ply 7.75 x15) and radial (say, 205/75 R15) ?
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
For normal "street" operation, front camber should be zero, and rear camber should be zero-to-1/2* negative.
I need a little extra tire clearance on the rear. Would 1 degree negative camber on the rear be ok for aggressive street driving?
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 1sttexan
I need a little extra tire clearance on the rear. Would 1 degree negative camber on the rear be ok for aggressive street driving?
Absolutely OK. The factory spec is -0.5* +/- 0.5*, so at -1* you're within limits.

Harry
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BADBIRDCAGE
On my last alignment the finished specs were:

Front Left/Right
Camber -0.4/-0.4
Caster 4.1/3.9
Toe 1/16 / 1/16

Rear Left/Right
Camber -0.6/-0.4
Toe 1/16 / 1/16

Car steers effortlessly (jeep P/S box upgrade) and tracks straight down the road. Tires are 205/75R15 on six inch rims.

Rich
how did you get that much caster in the front.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by midstyle
John -- any different for repro bias ply (say, 4-Ply 7.75 x15) and radial (say, 205/75 R15) ?
The only setting difference between bias-ply and radials is front toe-in. Use the factory specs for bias-ply tires (1/16" to 1/8" per side), and for radials use zero-to-1/16" TOTAL toe-in.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ

The only setting difference between bias-ply and radials is front toe-in.

Use the factory specs for bias-ply tires (1/16" to 1/8" per side),

and for radials use zero-to-1/16" TOTAL toe-in.
THAT'S what everybody forgets, and that's why you see so many posts about "lousy" bias ply tires that wander all over the road, etc.

The specs changed, and JohnZ has posted the correct ones.

IF you put bias ply tires on a car aligned to radial tire specs, it'll be a nightmare to handle.

Look at the significant difference in the toe in, 1/16 to 1/8 PER SIDE for bias and 0 to 1/16 TOTAL for radials.

Chuck
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by street62
how did you get that much caster in the front.
VBP Offset upper control arms. Relocated ball joints.

Silverslashstreak has posted how to have your upper control arms machined to make it possible without going to aftermarket parts.

Rich
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