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The Exploding Starter

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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 08:26 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rongold
The starter nose exploding is fairly common if there is no brace at the opposite end of the starter. Was the brace there and secure on the starter stud and bolted securely to the block ??? You cannot replace the aluminum nose with a cast iron one--The aluminum nose can only be used with the 153 tooth (small) flywheel and the C.I. nose only works with the 168 tooth (large) flywheel. The bell housings are different too, depending on which flywheel you are running. Why did you have to pull the trans again---I thought the problem was fixed.


RON
Hi Ron,

Yes the rear bracket was in place and tight. I didn't know that about the CI nose, I'm glad you told me that. As far as the trans goes, the rebuilder has now refunded my money and I'm back to square 1. I plan to get a newly rebuilt from David's 4 Speeds with all new internals and just move on.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I think you like sympathy. What are you going to do if something major happens?
I guess I will do like the rest here, post it on the forum and fix it... I'm not pissing and moaning, just trying to learn something here.

~m
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 65specialk
Does anybody shim there starter like we're supposed to??? Wonder if it was to close to the ring gear??? Dave
No, I don't think anyone does. I think the original type shims are still available, but I've never taken a starter out and found any shims in place.

This incident underscores the importance of having the front brace in place and the starter mounting bolts torqued to spec. That goodness Mike is detail-oriented and had those bases covered, or else it may have cost him an engine.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I think you like sympathy. What are you going to do if something major happens?
If there is anything I'm sure of, it's that Mike is not looking for sympathy.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SupremeDeluxe
No, I don't think anyone does. I think the original type shims are still available, but I've never taken a starter out and found any shims in place.

This incident underscores the importance of having the front brace in place and the starter mounting bolts torqued to spec. That goodness Mike is detail-oriented and had those bases covered, or else it may have cost him an engine.
What is the GM part number on the "original" type shims and how could this have cost him an engine?

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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SupremeDeluxe
If there is anything I'm sure of, it's that Mike is not looking for sympathy.
How 'bout drama?

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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
What is the GM part number on the "original" type shims and how could this have cost him an engine?

The shims are only used if you have a problem with engagement of the starter to the flywheel or flex plate. I've never had to use them since I've worked on cars in the last 40 or so years.
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SupremeDeluxe
If there is anything I'm sure of, it's that Mike is not looking for sympathy.
Mike is a great member on here. Just wants to get his car going and looking 100% and will help anyone that would ask from his past doing all the work on his car. Mike great job on pulling that trans out in 45 min,s Now get a starter in that thing and lets get it out on the road... Robert
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Old Feb 19, 2011 | 10:16 PM
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Mike dang the bad luck.. well look at this way I'd rather it happen close to home verses a couple hundred miles away at 2200... Keep your head up we are all rooting for you...


Dave
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 12:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Hitch
Mike dang the bad luck.. well look at this way I'd rather it happen close to home verses a couple hundred miles away at 2200... Keep your head up we are all rooting for you...


Dave
Hey Hitch, It's all good bro... I have fixed, restored so much on this car she's starting to be a real good one now. I don't sweat this stuff too much but I do get irritated here and there when stuff breaks last minute. Welcome to old cars right :o)
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 12:27 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by robert miller
Mike is a great member on here. Just wants to get his car going and looking 100% and will help anyone that would ask from his past doing all the work on his car. Mike great job on pulling that trans out in 45 min,s Now get a starter in that thing and lets get it out on the road... Robert
Thanks Robert. I try and ignore negative comments, especially from people who don't know me or bother to know me.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 07:41 AM
  #32  
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I think exploding starters is great forum stuff. Beats the heck out of all the "whats your favorite color" and "should I install side pipes" threads.

PS - I would be a little pissed by now too and everybody needs someplace to vent. This beats venting on the wife who usually just rolls her eyes and asks if I would mind taking the garbage out.

Dan
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 08:53 AM
  #33  
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Just wondering, what is the possibility the starter was bad all along and had been engaged hence making the whirring noise?
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 09:03 AM
  #34  
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Is the noise he is hearing the drive staying engaged because it is to tight to the ring gear??Drive is held in by centrifical force. When the motor is shut off the starter drive releases on its own. .. I have been a mechanic for 35 years and have seen this happen more than once. When you purchase an after-market starter these shims are included in the box. Dave
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 65specialk
Is the noise he is hearing the drive staying engaged because it is to tight to the ring gear??Drive is held in by centrifugal force. When the motor is shut off the starter drive releases on its own. .. I have been a mechanic for 35 years and have seen this happen more than once. When you purchase an after-market starter these shims are included in the box. Dave
I could see that happening but in my case I 100% for sure have a bad transmission. The starter was shimmed fine before it broke as I checked it when I put my motor back together.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 65specialk
When you purchase an after-market starter these shims are included in the box. Dave
That's so you can compensate for the variables that occur when all the parts in a commercially-rebuilt starter came from bins instead of from the same original starter; we didn't use shims in production with new starters.
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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnZ
That's so you can compensate for the variables that occur when all the parts in a commercially-rebuilt starter came from bins instead of from the same original starter; we didn't use shims in production with new starters.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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All this has me wondering something. The fact that I have the tranny out of my car makes things easy for me to check the starter and make sure the flywheel and bendix gear have the proper clearance okay. If not I can use a shim till they are perfect. My question is, if a car had the trans and bell housing in place and you wanted to check the fly to gear clearance how would you have access to see that? Would you have to merely remove the tin plate at the bottom of the bell? I ordered a new starter and want to be 100% sure I don’t have those issues again, especially if I did something wrong when I re-mounted my starter.

Thanks guys
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 01:20 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by KC John
The shims are only used if you have a problem with engagement of the starter to the flywheel or flex plate. I've never had to use them since I've worked on cars in the last 40 or so years.
Originally Posted by JohnZ
That's so you can compensate for the variables that occur when all the parts in a commercially-rebuilt starter came from bins instead of from the same original starter; we didn't use shims in production with new starters.


Shims are needed frequently with rebuilt starters because the rebuilder often resurfaces the mounting surface to get them flat and true.

Once they do that, they lost .010 or more easily and that throws the gear to flywheel ring gear clearance all off.

If you had odd noises when you were starting, then it was the warning you missed. Often these will egg shape the nose bushing and then eventually bind and not crank.

Without the front bracket, most starters flex enough on the two block mount bolts to survive. But with your front bracket on, all the stress went into your nose piece.
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Old Feb 23, 2011 | 02:44 AM
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Originally Posted by mscaggs
All this has me wondering something. The fact that I have the tranny out of my car makes things easy for me to check the starter and make sure the flywheel and bendix gear have the proper clearance okay. If not I can use a shim till they are perfect. My question is, if a car had the trans and bell housing in place and you wanted to check the fly to gear clearance how would you have access to see that? Would you have to merely remove the tin plate at the bottom of the bell? I ordered a new starter and want to be 100% sure I don’t have those issues again, especially if I did something wrong when I re-mounted my starter.

Thanks guys
You can remove the solenoid and mount the starter. Make sure you use the correct starter bolts with the knurled body. Then use your hand to push the bendix forward to engage the gear to the teeth in the flex plate or flywheel. You only need 1/64"-1/32" clearance. I usually just use a straightened out paper clip for a gauge.
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