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My 1960 has had a problem of pulling to the left on braking since I got the car. Some times a slight pull, some times really strong. Rebuilt both front brakes with all new parts ( cylinder, all other parts) except shoes which were new. Bleed brakes several times. Same issue. It also seems worse after driving for a while.
Any suggestions? Thanks!
Looked at them when I changed the wheel cylinders. Looked OK from the outside at that time. Plenty of flow our the bleeder. thinking it could be restricted?? Replace??
Definitely replace them....they typically 'hour-glass' on the inside and can act as a one-way valve when the brake pedal is pushed...this defect isn't really visible externally...
In addition to replacing the hoses, check your Brake drums for out of round which could also cause a wheel to grab. Does the car drive straight down the road, how's the alignment, steering, and front end play? Pilot Dan
Check your Master cyl. also. I had a leaky (internally) master and when I hit the brakes hard it would pull hard to one side. Replaced M/C and problem is gone.....
To check M/C hold your foot on brake pedal hard and wait about 5-10 seconds. If pedal starts to go down a little bit (mine dropped about 2inch.) then you have an internal leak within the M/C. Change it out.
Last edited by vettefred; May 25, 2011 at 10:43 PM.
Frankie is right, had this happen to me 20 years ago...blew out all the lines, put on new brake hoses. Was much better, then put on radials...stops perfect now. Good luck. Bill.
Just remember everything has to be equal on one side to the other. Make sure shoes are oil free no staining or contamination. Make sure they have the same amount of meat on left to right sides drums and shoes. New fluid also and make sure there are no leaks M/C and wheel cylinders. Other than that check out the lines if it still pulls ! Stewy
Adjusted each brake shoe up tight then backed off 6 clicks.
Car drives straight. Actually very good. Some play in steering standing still but steers just fine. Did check master cylinder and pressure holding is good. No pedal drop.
The clue is when pressing on brake pedal, most of the time you don't notice a lot of grab. Some times when you hit it hard the wheel is almost ripped out of your hand. Other times is just a mild pull.
Apparently the previous owner did a brake job so the shoes are new and drums were turned and look great. Spinning a drum does not show any high spots either. Wheel bearings are not great maybe should replace them as well,
I think the hose connection sounds like a suspecious area so I will try replacing them both.
Pull the drums and look at the wear pattern on the linings. If they do not show contact along the full length of the linings then they were not arced to the drums in which case they will do what you describe until they wear in to conform to the drums. Depending on how out they are it could take a short or a very long time to conform. It used to be standard practice to arc(grind) the linings to conform to the drums but you might have to do some serious hunting to find anyone that can or will do it anymore.
Car should have play in the steering. All C1's have a few degrees of free steering wheel play ! Check the hoses out ! If it still does the same after that. You might need to physically check the dimensions of each side. Do you think there could be a sticky wheel cylinder ? I set my brakes up with a brake vernia I also had trouble with the car pulling until I used this tool ! Try the hoses and let us all know what's going on ! Stewy
I would remove the shoes and put the left set on the right and right on the left wheel.
If it now pulls to the opposite side you know it is the brake linings.
Cost you nothing but some time. It is the only thing, except for the hoses, that you didn't change.
Joe
I would remove the shoes and put the left set on the right and right on the left wheel.
If it now pulls to the opposite side you know it is the brake linings.
Joe
Good idea, also check the brake shoes carefully for any dark spots which would indicate prior brake fluid contamination and could account for your problem as well. Peel back the dust boots on the wheel cylinders to confirm they are bone dry. Pilot Dan
While you have the brake drums off, check the backing plate nubs that hold the shoe in alignment. Sometimes they get grooves worn in them and that will cause a shoe to hang momentarily, just long enough to cause a swerve.
Do your brakes pull in one direction and then slowly neutralize or do they continue to pull hard in one direction until the next time you apply the brakes?
Will look at the shoes ware patterns. I looked at the shoes before and they were all OK then.
I put in new wheel cylinders all around when I got the car and found the initial brake pulling problem. After rebuilding with new parts the problem seemed to be better but not gone. However it come back just as bad as when I got the car.
Great idea to swap shoes and see if the problem follows the shoes. Will also look at backing plates for wear issues or any way its getting hung up there.
When I press hard and release the pulling stops immediately so its not likely they stick. When its worse, I can push harder and get more and more pull to the left just like the brake on the right is not working at all.
Should have it apart after the weekend and will post results and findings.
Thanks everyone!