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Impossible Hubcap!

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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 05:52 PM
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Default Impossible Hubcap!

I mounted my spare tire (6.70x15 bias) on the rear of my '58 but have invented some interesting new profanities trying to get the hubcap on the wheel. It's a factory original cap with no distortions and it fit my other wheel perfectly. However, this cap will not go on this wheel. It's the old bump-in-the-rug problem: pound one side in, the other side pops out. I've used considerable force but stopped when I felt myself shifting into Dave the Destroyer mode.

Have any of you C1 guys had a hubcap that wouldn't pop in? If so, how did you persuade it?

I've tried liquid soap, sanding the rim, having my wife hold the seated half, etc. Nothing works.

I'm counting on you guys to keep my head from exploding! Thanks!

Dave
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 06:40 PM
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You HAVE ascertained that the wheel has the proper mounting 'nubs' around the circumference ? Correct ?

If the wheel is correct then I would refrain from pounding the edge with my palm (I've had some nice bruises from this). A rubber mallet works but can dent things -- the other alternative I know of is to get a fist sized gob of dum-dum and use it to whack the cap into place....less chance of dents but requires more "technique".
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 06:58 PM
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First I would look at the cap and make sure all the little tabs aren't bent, then look at the wheel to see if all the bumps are the same, with no rust. You could try a tiny bit of grease on the nubs. Then I would try another cap to see if it's the cap. Technique is important...put the bottom on first, (preferably with the valve stem on the bottom), and hold it with your knee and work your way up both sides until you get to the top.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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I saw someone long ago use a rubber mallet wrapped with a couple old tee shirts to ease a piece of trim into place. I thought "what the hell is that thing gonna do?" when i saw it.

I tried it out, made one up and i'll tell ya its the damned best homemade hammer i've made. kinda replicated that lower palm whack without the pain.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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My 65 has one wheel/hubcap like that....every time that I've had to put it back on, no single method works each time.

But it eventually goes on. The only tip I can offer from my experience is perseverance.

Last edited by champs65; Aug 6, 2012 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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I'm sure you know this, but are you hitting the cap at 90º to the wheel? This method will make it difficult to get the cap on.

The preferred method is to hit the cap on the edge, at an angle towards the center of the wheel. It deforms the sheet metal just slightly and snaps back over the nub.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:50 PM
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I'm wondering about this term "nub." This wheel is smooth all the way around the circumference where the lip of the cap meets the wheel. Also, my hubcap doesn't have "tabs." It's just a flared edge all the way around.

Do any of you have a picture of a '58-'60 wheel and cap edge? I believe that those years are all the same. Thanks for the responses, guys.

Dave
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by DEBrahms
I'm wondering about this term "nub." This wheel is smooth all the way around the circumference where the lip of the cap meets the wheel. Also, my hubcap doesn't have "tabs." It's just a flared edge all the way around.

Do any of you have a picture of a '58-'60 wheel and cap edge? I believe that those years are all the same. Thanks for the responses, guys.

Dave
the nubs are on the inside of the wheel rim, not on the edge, and if you don't have any.....wrong wheel. I think there are 5 or 6 "nubs" around the inside perimeter. Check your other wheels. AND, my mistake, the early cars have a flared edge like you say. I was thinking of my 66 caps, but those edges on the old ones can get bent out as well.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:02 PM
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If you spare doesn't have the nubs your hubcap will never fit properly.
Strangely, I don't have a close up picture of a wheel that I can share with you
...but you can look at your OTHER four wheels to see the 'nubs'.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Here is picture of the lugs/nubs that need to be on the wheels for the C1 full hubcaps to be retained on the wheel.

Make sure your spare wheel has the outer ones. There should be four of the outer nubs. The picture is of my 1960 corvette wheels.

The inner ones are for the smaller dog-dish hubcaps.
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Last edited by dharris45; Aug 6, 2012 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:09 PM
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Rob, I have three nubs on the raised circular rib that runs between the hub and the valve stem. They're in a triangular pattern.

There are five nubs (if that's what they are) in the circle described by the five lug nuts, one in between each two nuts.

I should have looked at one of the other wheels to see what, if any, differences there are. I'll do that tomorrow.

Why do such simple tasks turn into such big deals? Geez.

Thanks for your responses, Rob.

Dave
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by DEBrahms
Rob, I have three nubs on the raised circular rib that runs between the hub and the valve stem. They're in a triangular pattern.

There are five nubs (if that's what they are) in the circle described by the five lug nuts, one in between each two nuts.
None of those nubs, are the ones you need. Look in the upper-right corner of the photo in the previous post - that's what you need.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:15 PM
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That picture settles it. I don't have those outer nubs on this spare. All I have are the three inner nubs. Thanks, dharris, for that pic. Now I won't have to ruin my hubcap slamming it with a rubber mallet.

Time for new tires all around. Thanks, again, guys. I can sure depend on you for fast solutions.

Dave
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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I thought so !
Aren't you glad now that you didn't go 'medieval' pounding the hubcap on !?
Do NOT break the "Corvette Code" and tell your wife your mistake - especially since
you involved her in your efforts...
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 09:31 PM
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Over the years a lot of cars ended up with any old spare wheel and tire that would fit in an emergency. Especially recently when one of those original wheels will bring 100+$. By the way 55 and 56 Chev passenger car wheels will work as well...same set up.
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 12:30 PM
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Update: An observant gentleman on the NCRS board suggested that my "wrong" wheel might be an RPO 276 5-1/2" unit, which he says is valuable. Is there any way of verifying that possibility, short of removing the tire? Any idea of what it would b worth if it is an RPO 276 5-1/2"? Thanks.

Dave
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 12:41 PM
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Well - it seems, if real, they are pricey that is, IF you can sell them!:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...ide-wheel.html
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Yeah, Frankie, I saw that thread too. It made me dream of being able to pay for a new set of Diamondbacks and have lots of gas money left over!

Dave
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by DEBrahms
Update: An observant gentleman on the NCRS board suggested that my "wrong" wheel might be an RPO 276 5-1/2" unit, which he says is valuable. Is there any way of verifying that possibility, short of removing the tire? Any idea of what it would b worth if it is an RPO 276 5-1/2"? Thanks.

Dave
That was me . Photos below show an RPO 276 5-1/2" wheel, including how the spider was riveted to the rim (the standard 5" wheels were welded). RPO 276 wheels typically bring around $1,000 each these days.
Attached Images   
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 01:39 PM
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I should have made the "John" connection, John. :-) Thanks very much for those pictures. I took a closer look at my wheel and found some numbers, which may not mean anything, but here they are:

K169 [valve stem] 19 (on either side of the valve stem)

The K1 and 19 are also stamped one on top of the other on one arm of the spider (I think it's called). Then, on another spider arm there is a "3" and on another arm a "D."

I took a not-so-good picture of the back side of the wheel. It looks like the spider is welded in rather than riveted. Here's the pic:



Would this be a repro RPO 276? Thanks again, John.

Dave
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