I decided to go with the Steeroids rack, so far has really bolted up cleanly to the existing holes. Probably more of a testimony to using a clean, straight frame though. Just a note, be sure to keep ALL the existing steering bolts as they look better to bolt on the side brackets IMHO.

 

Thanks for the info and the tip! It is one of those things on my winter list. The price seems reasonable. Your Vette is looking great.

 

Thanks! I see you're in NC, I'll be in Raleigh next week on biz and my daughter just moved home from Flat Rock, just south of Asheville.

I'm trying to keep the cost of my resto down but the steering is one area where I decided to spend a bit more to realize the upgrade since it's going to be a driver. The other area is the engine/trans, trying to make that choice now.

 

Where did you get your rack & pinion and the cost? Did it come with good instructions?

 

I'm located near Nags Head which is about 7 hours east of Ashville. I went with a 350 block with my 327 hump heads and stock manifold. Not much money in the motor but a good kick in the pants when you want it. Didn't have enough money to do an LS motor but talking to a friend who installed may fuel injected motors says he would take a carb over it every time. Just scatches his head when the fuelie won't start.
Bobonthis- Steroids is the name of the company and its around 1300.00

 

Got a link?

 

Bobonthis, XP Performance runs a special for Forum members on Steeroids products. Took about a week to get.

 

slalomfiend: Thanks again and if you got any pics of your setup please send. Any additional tricks you learned as well. When you put in the power steering fluid is there a procedure to get all air out - maybe in supplied instruction sheet? I have a 1967 convertible.

 

Now that the chassis is under sheets/complete and I'm trying to decide and find the engine/trans, I'm starting the body work. First is stripping the rear quarter panel for replacement and any final clean up on the body since it was already stripped by PO. Here is the quarter panel sans paint and ready for minor edge repair. I also went over to help a friend with a bit of welding work on his boat trailer and ended up with this super sweet mobile body lift frame, complete with electric hoist motor!! Perfect timing as I'll probably be lifting the body multiple time during the process!








I have a '67 complete front clip that I'm stripping as well to see how much of the glass I can use on the front repair.

 

I've been asked if I know who makes the lift I just got but it doesn't have any markings. It doesn't look home made. Does anyone have any insight as to who makes these? If anyone wants, I can take lots of pics and measurements...

 

Did you use that lift on the body? If so I would be interested.

 

I have a aluminum frame like yours. mine is really heavy duty. came from a old factory. its says spanco inc. gantry downington pa on it. Its a great tool to put engines, pull bodys etc. Harbor freight sells something like it also. not sure how good that one is. never used it.

 

Pierre, I just got it and set it up. I will use it to perform body lifts, I have a heavy duty cherry picker for any engine lifting. I'm going to love the electric winch...

 

As previously stated, I am wanting to keep the cost down on this build but have a fuel injected daily driver. I've been trying to decide on the LS vs other engine options and have decided to go with an LT1. Actually two '95 LT1's.

I want to keep the retro look and sound while getting the advantages of the fuel injection. Then I came across a super deal that sealed the decision for me... I'll be able to keep what I want from these to build the one I install and sell off the extra parts and keep the engine cost to a minimum.

The four bolt main engine has 75k miles, SS Hooker headers and aftermarket valve covers (with a bit of oxidation). The two bolt main has 35k miles and all the stock bolt ons and top end (this came from a Corvette but the block was swapped out at some point). I now have them all taken apart and all parts will be checked, cleaned, all new bearings/bushings and reassembled. Here are some pics of them. I'm going back with a mostly stock look with retro engine color but think I'll clean up and use the headers in lieu of the stock exhaust manifolds.








I know this is where I may lose you LS proponents, but have to balance the total build cost with what I know I'll need to spend to get the body right.

Should get everything back from the machine shop in a couple weeks, will post more upon reassembly...

 

great project you have mate

 

 

I've been helping my best friend Jim with his '59 Century Coronado restoration. Here's a few pics of how nice it turned out.












Since my last post, I realized one of my trailing arm housings was not lining up correctly. It had been tweaked at some point so off they both came to get all the guts put into new housings.

I also got the engine back from the machine shop with surprising news, the engine truly was a 35k mile engine! It didn't even need to be bored, just honed the cylinders and magnafluxed. It now has all new rings, bearings, seals and gaskets. I had the cam ground for a little more umph and the heads triple ground with new valve stem seals. Here are some status pics, I'll be getting the trans back in a couple days and want to be ready to set it on the frame as a unit.















Like I said in a previous post, I'm going with a bit of the old school look so orange block and pan with aluminum heads and intake. Should look pretty sweet on an LT1.

 

Got a few more hours on the engine so put the oil pan on for good, cam oil pump gear, heads cleaned and covered as well as the intake. Starting to look like an LT1.








Oh yeah, the motor mounts got painted and bolted on as well. I'll just keep working on the engine until the tranny is ready, then work to get them mated and mounted.

 

this is a great thread, awesome work!

 

Looking really good!