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While it's uber cold out, I am cleaning and planning... Please take a look at my dash pads and let me know if I should coat with dye stain or bite the $$ bullet and replace. There is some dryness/discoloration due to age as well as some dents/creases on the inside surface (best seen in pic 5). This is a car that I plan on keeping and driving so that may affect the decision. How long would the dyed surface look nice?
I greatly appreciate your opinions, thanks.
Last edited by slalomfiend; Dec 21, 2017 at 02:29 PM.
While it's uber cold out, I am cleaning and planning... Please take a look at my dash pads and let me know if I should coat with dye stain or bite the $$ bullet and replace. There is some dryness/discoloration due to age as well as some dents/creases on the inside surface (best seen in pic 5). This is a car that I plan on keeping and driving so that may affect the decision. How long would the dyed surface look nice?
I greatly appreciate your opinions, thanks.
The dye is very cheap... I would clean them up and shoot them and see what you think. If you still don't like them, you are out a few hours of work to prep and shoot them.
As for how long they look good, I want to say my dad's were shot 8-9 years ago now and they still look great.
While it's uber cold out, I am cleaning and planning... Please take a look at my dash pads and let me know if I should coat with dye stain or bite the $$ bullet and replace. There is some dryness/discoloration due to age as well as some dents/creases on the inside surface (best seen in pic 5). This is a car that I plan on keeping and driving so that may affect the decision. How long would the dyed surface look nice?
I greatly appreciate your opinions, thanks.
I sprayed my 67 Teal interior maybe Thirty Years ago and it looks just fine. Keeping a car garaged has it's benefits. Al W.
AL KNOCK makes good parts, but nothing like original. Back in the day a good paint shop mixed up a quart of ''red'' for a 67 I owned. Those dash pads looked great in the Southern California hot sun for 12 years I owned the car. Check with AL KNOCK INTERIORS in El Paso, Texas and see if they make the dye. They have a web page here
Al has just redone the page and if you watch it, you will see the production in motion. I am sure you will need some of his products anyway. Send your seat to them, and they will make them as new including the springs and foam as needed.
I still prefer original if you can save it.
Last edited by jimgessner; Feb 7, 2014 at 11:19 AM.
Thanks Gents, I'll get the dye for sure to start with! If all I'm doing is the dash and dash pads, how many spray cans will I need? I will be getting new door panels, visors, etc. but will also dye the e-brake cover and a couple other small pieces.
Thanks Gents, I'll get the dye for sure to start with! If all I'm doing is the dash and dash pads, how many spray cans will I need? I will be getting new door panels, visors, etc. but will also dye the e-brake cover and a couple other small pieces.
Most guys are using SEM or the interior dye from Corvette America.
One guy posted on the e-brake cover.
Lightly scuffing the old finish with Scotchbrite and cleaning the surface with SEM 38373 SEM SOLVE so as to not destroy the molded in grain pattern. Then sprayed two light overlapping coats of interior dye and let dry overnight. Then finished with one coat of Corvette America interior satin clear which mimics the original finish perfectly.
I'll be doing this method on my 67's e brake and seat backs.
I'd skip the Scotchbrite if I was doing the dash pads.
Finally got the front clip off and exposed the A pillars. I knew the bottoms of the A pillars were solid but wasn't sure of the upper portions. I found a whole lot of green primer and not much surface rust at all, wonders never cease!! I was expecting the worst in those upper pockets since this was a northern NY car but all I found was minor rust scale and LOTS of tree seeds! How in the name of Grace does all that work it's way in there??? I'll get the A pillars and front mount brackets all cleaned, rust prepped and epoxy primered this week. Then the new front clip attachment can begin.
Last edited by slalomfiend; Dec 21, 2017 at 02:32 PM.
I cleaned up the A pillars and cowl areas, removed all the rust scale and treated it. Then a really good coat of epoxy primer to seal it from the wet stuff. Now begins the front clip fit process...
Last edited by slalomfiend; Dec 21, 2017 at 02:34 PM.
Bill32, it is Elkhart Blue/teal interior. It'll have the BB hood so the accent color is Lynndale Blue on the hood. I also painted the calipers Lynndale. I'm debating on the soft top color, white shows so much and it really won't be used that often. I saw a teal soft top on this color combo and really like it so I may go that way. Plenty of time to decide though since it's still in body work! Here are a couple of pics from the net that show the difference. Opinions???
Last edited by slalomfiend; Dec 21, 2017 at 02:37 PM.
I like the Teal and Lyndale combo also. I saw the one shot showing the leaves up in the frame at the windshield base. How do you think leaves would be able to get into that pocket? Dennis
I like the Teal and Lyndale combo also. I saw the one shot showing the leaves up in the frame at the windshield base. How do you think leaves would be able to get into that pocket? Dennis
Though the cowl vents. Also a teal top was offered on all three blues in 67
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by slalomfiend
Bill32, it is Elkhart Blue/teal interior. It'll have the BB hood so the accent color is Lynndale Blue on the hood. I also painted the calipers Lynndale. I'm debating on the soft top color, white shows so much and it really won't be used that often. I saw a teal soft top on this color combo and really like it so I may go that way. Plenty of time to decide though since it's still in body work! Here are a couple of pics from the net that show the difference. Opinions???
Been a while since I posted, had my head into the project and work. I finished the '49 Ford truck, showed it and won Best in Class in early May 2012 then was able to clean up the garage and get the Vette moved home from storage. I built a body cart and transferred the body in July.
I knew the '67 frame was toast but wanted to break it down and save/sell anything that was worth anything. Most everything was rusted to the point that the frame flexed when we lifted the body off. I photo documented everthing and began the bag/tag process.
Here is how bad the frame was, the PO had weld plates applied to half the frame just to keep it together.
I picked up a really nice '75 donor frame/rolling chassis and started to break it down as well... more ziplocks!!
I am converting the '75 frame to match the '67, so the body mounts are getting moved/transferred. I set up the frame, laser leveled and then set up a datum frame out of unistrut. This was really great as you can bolt it all together and still see the center lines on the reference holes and body mounts. Here is the way I sectioned the frame to splice on the '67 rear frame sections.
Here is the pass side frame section during pre-fit.
The '67 frame is wider and the '75 is taller so I had to cut out wedges and re-shape to mimic the original frame transitions
Here is the rear part of the frame all tacked up
Top welds done and ground smooth, I also wire wheeled the '75 frame - gotta love the new smooth/shiney steel!!
The inside frame line is nice and straight, I'm very pleased with how it's turning out!
I'm also full welding the frame and adding a removable trans crossmember that I picked up from Craigslist ($120). I'm fabricating the side rail brackets from the ends of the '75 fixed crossmember and modifying the front side tabs to match the 90 degree shape.
Last night I repaired the #4 body mount holes that had some rust wear and tacked in the patch where the fuel line exits the front kick up. I'll try and get some more pics posted as I progress. I've got all the suspension parts cleaned/sandblasted and rust prepped, just have to catch a nice warm day to get them primed and painted. I hope to have a new rolling chassis in a month or so.
You're obviously doing and amazing job...great skill level!!
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Dashpad dilemma
Dennis
