Originally Posted by Easy Rhino

Some folks may not want to fool with solid lifters.

Originally Posted by TCracingCA

If you dyno'd your engine, it would be 500+ hp, if you are making 414RWHP! Thus when you talk L-75, L-76, L-79, or L-84, you are only talking about 260- maybe 295 RWHP tops!

Ps if you have an engine and just plan a rebuild with some added prep- then you are not looking for Ideal HP! HP is created by flowing and maximizing the potential at a specific Cubic Inch. Therefore i see the max with reliability and tractability for a 327 being maxed at around 500hp on dyno for the guys that are going out to buy some new heads, a new cam! Even the old school Iron Bowties Phase 2's can easily be ported with reliability to make 500hp. Fopr a perfect nostalgic build, I would use an Iron bowtie block and not a production one, unless it was one of the truly high quality ones! I would iron bowtie head it and pick the cam of choice as per what you are looking for and then hang stock looking components to that base and have something better than stock, if you aren't numbers matching! I would honestly rather have top GM Bowtie performance parts (blocks and heads etc.) than a numbers matching stock engine or a butchered numbers matching engine filled with non NOS components. The simple fact you would be paying big money to find original edge orfice lifters and 30-30 cams etc or the L-79 components mades me sneer at those guys claiming numbers matching!!! while they mention there comp cams, edlebrock crap this or that! It is getting to be a rarity to come across a numbers matching engine that was assembled with all NOS parts! Therefore as soon as that in your build changes, then why stop there!

Originally Posted by TCracingCA

If you dyno'd your engine, it would be 500+ hp, if you are making 414RWHP! Thus when you talk L-75, L-76, L-79, or L-84, you are only talking about 260- maybe 295 RWHP tops!

Ps if you have an engine and just plan a rebuild with some added prep- then you are not looking for Ideal HP! HP is created by flowing and maximizing the potential at a specific Cubic Inch. Therefore i see the max with reliability and tractability for a 327 being maxed at around 500hp on dyno for the guys that are going out to buy some new heads, a new cam! Even the old school Iron Bowties Phase 2's can easily be ported with reliability to make 500hp. Fopr a perfect nostalgic build, I would use an Iron bowtie block and not a production one, unless it was one of the truly high quality ones! I would iron bowtie head it and pick the cam of choice as per what you are looking for and then hang stock looking components to that base and have something better than stock, if you aren't numbers matching! I would honestly rather have top GM Bowtie performance parts (blocks and heads etc.) than a numbers matching stock engine or a butchered numbers matching engine filled with non NOS components. The simple fact you would be paying big money to find original edge orfice lifters and 30-30 cams etc or the L-79 components mades me sneer at those guys claiming numbers matching!!! while they mention there comp cams, edlebrock crap this or that! It is getting to be a rarity to come across a numbers matching engine that was assembled with all NOS parts! Therefore as soon as that in your build changes, then why stop there!

Originally Posted by 65tripleblack

Yes, it chassis dynoed 414 RWHP on a DynoJet dyno, in 4th gear (1:1).
How do you figure 500 @ flywheel?

Originally Posted by 6T5RUSH

Easy Rhino,

I've got a 327 with solid lifters that in looking at the engine compartment she resembles an L76, 365 HP motor ('cept for the trained eye of the oil fill spout pointing the wrong way, ). Mine has the '70 LT-1 camshaft, lifters and intake. It's going on 10,000 miles since I've touched the lifters for an adjustment. Still has that sewing machine sound and luvs to rev in the 6,500 range. Idles nicely around town, good street manners. Polylocks do work well with this setup. I run mine on the loose side.

Just my experience on solids...your experience might vary.



Jim
In God We Trust!

Originally Posted by TCracingCA

A c2/c3 loses what, from about 18-22% drivetrain loss, you are pretty darn close, if not quite there. I would bet you are at at least 475hp.

I would say the basic good head porter without the special tricks and staying in the 2.02 range would be with the 461/186's about 450hp limit. We have a pair of 492's with offset valve train (wider intake ports) getting to 500+ (285cfm flow).

Alot of factors and I don't like equating cams, but just for conversation you would need at least what others call a 285 cam to approach that approximate power level-- therefore at flywheel I would say a 425hp can be done all day long without anything special. 450hp takes expertise and 475hp takes some tricks and 500hp takes more money!

Originally Posted by NormR

Hello and thank you. I have owned a 1978 and 1993 in the past but am starting over and looking for a 65 - 67 with a small block & 4 speed. I have been advised by several to stick with the 300 hp (or less) engine to avoid fuel related issues, such as engine knock, having to retard timing, etc. I am told the higher horsepower 327 engines have a higher compression ration and do not play well with today's fuels.

Is this good advice as it does limit my selection even further; any suggestions would be appreciated.

My goal is to find a car I can drive on occasion, exhibit at the local car shows and would present itself well if judged. I just retired and I can not think of a better way to enjoy myself.

Any help you could lend would be greatly appreciated.