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Old Nov 28, 2014 | 08:41 PM
  #41  
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Dub Thank you for your advise. The guy who is going to spray the car said the front end needs to be done with 220 and then 320. He said the front is in very good condition paint wise. I trust him because A. He is not sanding and B. He has been painting cars for 40 years including corvettes. He is going to repair some cracks I have then spray epoxy then I get to sand some more and then another coat and sand then primer and skim coat over very minor scratches and dings. He said only when he is satisfied he will begin with the base coat. I have little experience but I have seen several cars including a black SWC and they are gorgeous and they have some age on them. I do appreciate everything you said but he is here and I do trust his wisdom.

PS did not take the house painter's advice

Last edited by mspry; Nov 28, 2014 at 08:44 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #42  
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Very productive day. clean inside and sanded with 220. Tomorrow 320. Too much sanding and I have to do it about four to five more times. I wll post pic's tomorrow.
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 08:48 PM
  #43  
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Great to see you really going after it!
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Old Nov 29, 2014 | 09:15 PM
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Its amazing when you do it yourself. I am sanding areas where no one would ever go. You get a lot of satisfaction from the shear creation you are making. Very magical!
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Old Nov 30, 2014 | 05:24 PM
  #45  
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Sorry guys no pic's today. A friend came over with a wheel puller so I replaced the rag joint and then I remembered I had a steering column wire harness which I bought about a year ago. Had to pull the steering column to get the wires thru the little neck hole. PIA but its done.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 08:11 PM
  #46  
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Finally got a hold of my wife's IPAD to take some pic's. Filled in the holes at the bottom of the windshield with JB weatherweld and did the floor board where someone wanted alot more air and rain to come in. First time using it and you can sand it. Made a new plate for the back out of heavier gauge steel. Pic of the new rag joint in place. Also did my column wiring too. Busy few days.






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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #47  
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 08:35 PM
  #48  
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Looking Good, keep it up!
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 11:07 AM
  #49  
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Looking good Marty . So glad to see you doing this yourself, as when it's finally done and you're driving it again you'll find a whole new level of pride in it. a feeling you just can't buy for any amount of money.

Russ
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #50  
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!
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 07:29 PM
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Do whatever he says. I am not there to see it....OBVIOUSLY....and if you are planning on keeping the paint on the front clip....and depending on what primer he plans to apply to the car prior to paint. I thought you were stripping all the paint off and starting fresh.

DUB

Last edited by DUB; Dec 4, 2014 at 07:03 PM.
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Old Dec 3, 2014 | 07:41 PM
  #52  
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DUB, I was going to strip it down but my painter said it was not necessary since it had only one paint job. I do very much appreciate your comments and advise.

Marty

Last edited by mspry; Dec 6, 2014 at 05:57 AM.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 07:05 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by mspry
BUB, I was going to strip it down but my painter said it was not necessary since it had only one paint job. I do very much appreciate your comments and advise.

Marty
He seems to have a plan in effect.

DUB
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 07:00 AM
  #54  
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I finished putting in a new steering tube and turn signal wiring harness. The best way to accomplish the job is to remove the drivers seat. That way you have all the room you need to be turned into a pretzel! Also working on the rear pannel behind the seat. Mine was beyond repair so I fabricated a new one in heavier gauge steel. Some one decided to fix the leaking windshield by drilling several holes in the drivers side floor pan. I used the same JB Weatherweld for filling rust spots around the windshield and it worked great. I will be fixing two cracks in the interior floor pan today. I need to recharge my batteries. This type of job is not for the faint at heart.
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 10:10 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by mspry
I finished putting in a new steering tube and turn signal wiring harness. The best way to accomplish the job is to remove the drivers seat. That way you have all the room you need to be turned into a pretzel! Also working on the rear pannel behind the seat. Mine was beyond repair so I fabricated a new one in heavier gauge steel. Some one decided to fix the leaking windshield by drilling several holes in the drivers side floor pan. I used the same JB Weatherweld for filling rust spots around the windshield and it worked great. I will be fixing two cracks in the interior floor pan today. I need to recharge my batteries. This type of job is not for the faint at heart.
Just think how much someone would charge you to do that it feels good to do some of these impossible jobs. I had to do the cluster and full harness on my first SWC after final paint and interior.
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Old Dec 6, 2014 | 09:07 PM
  #56  
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I really think they would just shut their eyes and cover all the problems up. Give you a shinny paint job and on the way you go. I know not all would but it but makes you wonder.
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by mspry
I really think they would just shut their eyes and cover all the problems up. Give you a shinny paint job and on the way you go. I know not all would but it but makes you wonder.
UNFORTUNATELY...many people/shops cause owners of Corvettes to have a concern. Sad but true.

It has everything to do with INTEGRITY, ETHICS and REPUTATION. If the person/shop has at LEAST these three qualities. It is a GOOD START.

Then comes DEDICATION, ATTENTION TO DETAIL, PATIENCE, FOCUS and the PASSION FOR EXCELLENCE.

If all of those are being applied that have been listed above (along with some others)...then the money a person spends on a specific repair will be directly proportional to how much or how many of these qualities are being used on that repair.

DUB
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 06:16 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by DUB
UNFORTUNATELY...many people/shops cause owners of Corvettes to have a concern. Sad but true.

It has everything to do with INTEGRITY, ETHICS and REPUTATION. If the person/shop has at LEAST these three qualities. It is a GOOD START.

Then comes DEDICATION, ATTENTION TO DETAIL, PATIENCE, FOCUS and the PASSION FOR EXCELLENCE.

If all of those are being applied that have been listed above (along with some others)...then the money a person spends on a specific repair will be directly proportional to how much or how many of these qualities are being used on that repair.

DUB
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 07:14 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by mspry
I really think they would just shut their eyes and cover all the problems up. Give you a shinny paint job and on the way you go. I know not all would but it but makes you wonder.
I was involved with mine several times a week checking progress
and seeing what's going on I was lucky a little stainless problem
in the end but as a trade off it was worth it . a true 10 paint job.

But you are right there is a certain breed that will screw you up if they can This is my third midyear paint job and I cant take the stress anymore I will quit while I am ahead. I striped my first one with razor blades back in the early 80s.
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Old Dec 8, 2014 | 06:13 PM
  #60  
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Most shops won't let you check on your ride. It is stressful but I seem to be over it and now trying to fix every little thing I see. I started in November and gave myself plenty of time to get it right the first or second time without worrying about a particular schedule. Right now I am looking into a bad repair on the passenger side. Slow and steady is my motto!
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