A good motto to have.

DUB

 

UPS showed up with my re-chromed bumpers from Virginia Vettes. Thank you Dick great job especially on my banged up front passenger bumper!

My hands tell the story. Really good cut on my thumb.

 

Not that my advice matters...I would mask them off to protect them and they would get fitted to the car to make sure that there are NO SURPRISES when the car is all painted and then they do not fit quite right. ESPECIALLY if they were damaged and repaired. It does not take much to throw off the angles on how they fit. And the time spent when it is in the pre-prime stage IS THE TIME to do this...and I am commenting from experience when I ASSUMED that the bumpers were fine...only to find out otherwise when they were being installed.

DUB

 

You're advice does matter a great deal. I've been reading your reply and threads for some time now. You are very informative with a wealth of knowledge. I have great respect for all you have to say. I'm an old street rodder and prime fit, and prime fit again. Not right adjust and prime fit again. Not done until it fits and looks right. Then paint, cut and buff. Thank you!
Al

 

DUB That is a GREAT idea. I am still in the sanding stage. I should be done tomorrow and take your advise this weekend! Thank you for helping me along. There are so many things to think about when you have everything in pieces.

 

Thanks....I do my best when I can help out. AND I appreciate you taking the time to respond...because coming from someone who does custom work...on a high level...we know what needs to be done that is often times overlooked to time not spent...and that is when problems can start. ASSUMPTION is the MOTHER of ALL....F-ups. Sorrry ...no other way of putting it.

Such as making a splash shield to protect the top hood surround (above the front tires) so rocks do not create 'star burst' cracks in your paint...if your tires pick up a rock and sling into the panel.

TRUST ME....Seeing a star burst crack in your paint ...and then realizing what it is going to take to get it repaired and RIGHT...will make you WISH you can turn back time and install these shields. So spending 10-15 hours or whatever is a 'drop in the bucket' to what it would take to fix the star burst crack in your fresh paint job. DO NOT ask me how I know this. EVERY Corvette up to a 1984.... when painted.... gets these shields( NOT an OPTION.....MANDATORY...and depending if it a Top Flight car or whatever will depend how I install them. because if they do not want them....and they get a starburst and it could have been prevented....well...let me 'say'...they will REGRET their decision to NOT have them in. SERIOUSLY REGRET IT!!!!

DUB

 

Dub,

Where can you get the splash shields for the front tires on a '66?
Thanks.

 

I make them. and they go ABOVE the tires ...IN the wheel house area....so the tires can not damage the top hood surround ABOVE the tires.

DUB

 

Dub,

Thanks for your response.
Do you sell them? Have any pics? Tires don't rub?
Only for the fronts? Sorry, so many ?'s.

PM me if you like.

 

NO...the tires can not rub...They are above the tires.

I have been told by people to manufacture them...but you can make them yourself. many do out of materials that they can pick up. I make mine out of fiberglass and bond them in on cars that are not being judged.

NO need for the rear...the severe angle of the quarter panel protects it.

DUB

 

Thanks for the info, Dub.

I can't do squat myself, only drive 'em!
I'll try to find a fiberglass craftsman here in Austin.
Any pics of one, if possible, before installation would be most helpful in translating to someone doing the work for me.

Merry Christmas,

 

All you are trying to accomplish is making a shield...that goes from end to end INSIDE your wheelhouse area...above the tire...about an inch BELOW the top hood surround ...so IF a rock gets picked up by your tire...and gets slung...it hits this shield. I start the shield at the top edge of the bonding strip and go over to the other side of the inner skirt ...and from front to back....leaving a little bit of space so it does not damage the rubber seals that are stapled to you inner skirt...or should be.

I have had customers make their own out of that super dense Styrofoam about 1 inch thick ...also ABS plastic that was heated and bent.

NOT rocket science.

DUB

 

Thanks, Dub, for the directions. I'll pass it on to my resto guy. We'll try to get something made up for rock protection.

 

Been working on my house for the past week since my neighbors fire. It did about 12 grand worth of damage to mine and I decided to repair it myself with the help of a friend. I have just about finished it except for the drywall and trim. I should be in full swing with the vette this weekend.

 

Finally got back to work. As you can see a lot of glass work has to be done. It will be my first time. I know the key is to have a clean area for the glass to stick to so this coming tuesday I will be applying it.

 

Oh yeah, hooked up my new compressor today. For those of you who can see the price of painting a car just goes up and up so keep it in mind before jumping into it.

 

Good to see you have survived the holidaze and are back at it Marty.
If you wouldn't mind, I would like to make a couple small suggestions on your compressor setup. I think you had the right idea with the water separator, but plastic pipe isn't really very good at allowing the air to cool, which is the idea behind that type of system. also, at least the last leg should be galvanized anyway because you end up pulling on the hose and have the risk of breaking the plastic pipe.
the other thing I would suggest would be to turn the (galvanized version) whole wall mounted assembly 90* so the long legs are vertical, then install petcock drains in each leg. this lets you drain each leg and keeps the last leg much much drier for the separator to catch the last drips.
You certainly had the right idea, just could use some fine tuning to be more efficient IMHO.

Russ

 

Russ, thank you for your suggestions in rearranging my piping. I have a hose reel but I like your idea of having it sturdy because i can see myself snapping it. I do have one question about the glass. I plan on putting a small patch over the holes and then on the second application of the glass put a larger one. Wanted to know your thoughts.

 

Yup. works for me. or put a patch on the back side and let the resin gel a bit first. then do the front side with progressively larger patches (1 back and 3 front side)

Russ

 

Slow is Smooth...Smooth Makes FAST!