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Pulling engine

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Old May 12, 2015 | 11:10 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Thomas66
Does anyone have any thoughts on this wear? I am thinking that it was a bad case of miss alighment of the roller tip . I am going to get a set of adjustable guides when it all goes back together.
It looks to me like the hammering of the hardened roller tip that was probably harder than the valve it mushroomed it. Somewhere you had lost valve lash and it ran that way long enough to mushroom the valve. It appeared you had similar thread exposed past the nut from the picture. I would inspect the lobe lift and base circle diameter on the cam to determine if it wore incorrectly causing the lash to open up. You should inspect both ends of the push rod as well for wear. The top end looks ok. But compare it to others.

Valvetrain issues are tough to diagnose sometimes. Good luck.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:25 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Jackfit
Hi, here are a few pictures of my install, I did it by myself. I also used guide pins in the bottom two holes of engine to help line up bell housing. Taking out radiator / water pump gives much more room. It was not hard to install. Had to do it two times because of other problems...





Notice guide pins in engine







Just curious.

It looks like you did not use the chains to lift the engine from the intake lift plate. Any particular reason why you hooked the chains up to the side of the engine instead?
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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:51 AM
  #23  
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Hi, in order to have the leveling rig work you need to be at the ends of the engine . If I'm the middle you can not hold engine in tilt position

Jack
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Old May 13, 2015 | 09:14 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Thomas66
Thanks everyone! The cam swap will be done with the engine in the car. I still have to get that ordered. It is true. There really isn't a reason for me to be in a hurry.
After looking at that valve tip damage you better pull the other rockers and check all the valves.

If you change the cam back to the factory stock L-79 (which is a good idea) you had better change the valve springs to stock and have the rocker geometry checked by someone. IMO, you have a rocker geometry problem that could be caused by the studs, push rods, rockers, guide plates, or a stack up of all of them, that rocker wants to walk off the edge.
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Old May 13, 2015 | 08:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by tbarb
After looking at that valve tip damage you better pull the other rockers and check all the valves.

If you change the cam back to the factory stock L-79 (which is a good idea) you had better change the valve springs to stock and have the rocker geometry checked by someone. IMO, you have a rocker geometry problem that could be caused by the studs, push rods, rockers, guide plates, or a stack up of all of them, that rocker wants to walk off the edge.
The other valves look ok. It wasn't hard to see the damage to the one pictured when the rocker was still in place. The rocker was not centered laterally. Facing from the passenger side it was to the right.

During the first start-up, the engine would not fire after many attempts. I had forgotten that on my engine I had to re-clock the ignition wires in order to achieve the required advance. Otherwise the vac can limited movement. I wonder if the delay started the cam off badly. Once corrected I ran the engine at 2,100 rpm's for twenty minutes. The oil was Red Line break-in. After break-in I used Rotella 15-40.
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