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There is a kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-WCFB-Phenolic-Carburetor-Insulator-Spacer-4-Barrel-Heat-Soak-Riser-Kit-/261913915174?hash=item3cfb492f26
It doesn't follow the figure "8" intake manifold patter for the bores but should work fine...you'll have clearance (I do on my '61) but used some crushed tin foil or modeling clay at critical air cleaner potential "touch points" to be sure.
It doesn't follow the figure "8" intake manifold patter for the bores but should work fine...you'll have clearance (I do on my '61) but used some crushed tin foil or modeling clay at critical air cleaner potential "touch points" to be sure.
I saw the kit on ebay but I'm not sure they will work.
The only other answer is to buy blank phenolic material and go to a machine shop with a cnc machine.
I made mine out of 1/4" Masonite. Used a hole saw and a coping saw and had them done in less than an hour. The carb bodies are MUCH cooler than the intake manifold, and so far, no percolation problems with terrible CA gasoline. And it's HOT where I am. Spacers totally work on these cars, with no downside.
I just put them on the 2 x 4 setup on my 59 and no issues s far. From everything I have read on the forum you will not be disappointed. You may need to change intake manifold gaskets too and there is a lot of information on the forum regarding this. Also, listen to Frankie as he knows what he is talking about.
Well - waaaay back about 1/2 decade ago before anybody made WCFB spacers I made my own out of phenolic stock bought from McMasters. That stuff is tough as all hell. Lots of time spent, drill bits and other tools ruined and muscle cramps...but I did get them done and they worked great. Later on a friend that had another friend that worked at Moog gave the guy one of my hand fabricated ones and he put it on some computer controlled fabrication machine and made 10 perfect sets in about 20 minutes.
I had about four of those pairs that I gave away over the years. Still got my hand fabricated ones though....they just have a warm spot in my heart I guess...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jul 12, 2015 at 07:55 PM.
'65 327/250 WCFB. Original carb. Been through leaded gas and then no lead and then E 10 for the last 30 years. Carb never touched.
Shut it off hot and restart 10-20 minutes later. Instant restart. Doesn't burble/gurble. I am seriously trying to figure out what you guys are doing to screw up a perfectly good WCFB?
I just put them on the 2 x 4 setup on my 59 and no issues s far. From everything I have read on the forum you will not be disappointed. You may need to change intake manifold gaskets too and there is a lot of information on the forum regarding this. Also, listen to Frankie as he knows what he is talking about.
Peter
I used the gaskets that block the heat passage on the intake, I also used two gaskets under each carb (per the service manual) which helped but didn't cure it completely.
Thanks for all the Help!
Last edited by wilson1959; Jul 13, 2015 at 03:41 AM.
'65 327/250 WCFB. Original carb. Been through leaded gas and then no lead and then E 10 for the last 30 years. Carb never touched.
Shut it off hot and restart 10-20 minutes later. Instant restart. Doesn't burble/gurble. I am seriously trying to figure out what you guys are doing to screw up a perfectly good WCFB?
I don't wish to be involved in a debate about it, but I feel the same way. I think a lot of problems are blamed on "percolation" that aren't. If adding the spacers fixed your problem, I'm happy for you. I've just never had the problem with over 60 cars (17 Corvettes) owned in the last 50 years. I guess I've been lucky, too.
Simple thermodynamics. Gas boils at X temp; carb reaches X+Y temp after a hot run; gas boils - carbs trying to venturi vapor instead of liquid.
Nobody "screwed up a perfectly good WCFB" or some other equally baseless allegation. Some apparently don't drive much (or at all), drive in cooler weather, or, don't make intermittent stops in their travels.
Also, some people, like myself, aren't running a stock 250hp engine on one carb. I'm running a 383 CID stroker with dual WCFB's, which can generate a bit more heat than a garden-variety 250HP job. Generally, I leave stock items alone. When modified, build to suit.