Fuel Pump Leaking at Carb Outlet
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Fuel Pump Leaking at Carb Outlet
Hey guys
67 Vert with a 66 327/300 Carb-to-pan
I been noticing a gas smell in the garage, and tracked it down to the Fuel Pump "outlet" where the Carb line connects.
A little background is that mid summer I replaced the Carb on the motor with the correct 66 unit, and switched from a rubber pump to carb line to the correct steel one.
I tried "tightening" up the line, but its still leaking.
Any suggestions? Is there a fuel line equivalent to plumbers Teflon tape?
THANKS, in advance!
****UPDATE****
SOLVED... I think...
The Fuel Pump end of the Carb Fuel Line was probably not seated correctly. I followed the advice below, and clamped the inlet hose removed my front wheel/jacked up the car (to get better access) removed the line, inspected the line (it was chromed steel - at least a magnet stuck to it) seemed ok so I put it back on MADE SURE IT WAS SEATED SECURELY then tightened it.
I haven't started the car yet... as I did get some gas all over and I want it all to evaporate first, but the connection is dry so I am fairly confident that all is well.
67 Vert with a 66 327/300 Carb-to-pan
I been noticing a gas smell in the garage, and tracked it down to the Fuel Pump "outlet" where the Carb line connects.
A little background is that mid summer I replaced the Carb on the motor with the correct 66 unit, and switched from a rubber pump to carb line to the correct steel one.
I tried "tightening" up the line, but its still leaking.
Any suggestions? Is there a fuel line equivalent to plumbers Teflon tape?
THANKS, in advance!
****UPDATE****
SOLVED... I think...
The Fuel Pump end of the Carb Fuel Line was probably not seated correctly. I followed the advice below, and clamped the inlet hose removed my front wheel/jacked up the car (to get better access) removed the line, inspected the line (it was chromed steel - at least a magnet stuck to it) seemed ok so I put it back on MADE SURE IT WAS SEATED SECURELY then tightened it.
I haven't started the car yet... as I did get some gas all over and I want it all to evaporate first, but the connection is dry so I am fairly confident that all is well.
Last edited by Revfan; 10-28-2015 at 06:00 AM.
#2
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '12
I had a similar problem on the inlet side of the pump on my 63 using the brand new correct fitting that swivels. No matter how much I tightened it, it leaked between the fitting and the tube. Finally ordered another one, put it on and the leak stopped. I examined it and can't really see why it leaked, but it did. You might try putting another new fitting, or tube
#3
Melting Slicks
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I'd suggest removing the new line and checking the flared surface that interfaces with the inside of the pump. Use a flaring tool to make sure the inner face of the flare has no distortions and reinstall making sure the line is squarely seated and held that way until the fitting is tightened.
I had this problem just last week on a 72 LT1 I'm working on. The new line upon removal had a very slight imperfection on the flare surface which prevented a perfect seal. I think it may not have been squarely seated inside the pump when I tightened it the first time. Doing what I suggest above solved the problem for me. Dave
I had this problem just last week on a 72 LT1 I'm working on. The new line upon removal had a very slight imperfection on the flare surface which prevented a perfect seal. I think it may not have been squarely seated inside the pump when I tightened it the first time. Doing what I suggest above solved the problem for me. Dave
Last edited by dkleather; 10-27-2015 at 02:04 PM.
#4
Race Director
I'd suggest removing the new line and checking the flared surface that interfaces with the inside of the pump. Use a flaring tool to make sure the inner face of the flare has no distortions and reinstall making sure the line is squarely seated and held that way until the fitting is tightened.
I had this problem just last week on a 72 LT1 I'm working on. The new line upon removal had a very slight imperfection on the flare surface which prevented a perfect seal. I think it may not have been squarely seated inside the pump when I tightened it the first time. Doing what I suggest above solved the problem for me. Dave
I had this problem just last week on a 72 LT1 I'm working on. The new line upon removal had a very slight imperfection on the flare surface which prevented a perfect seal. I think it may not have been squarely seated inside the pump when I tightened it the first time. Doing what I suggest above solved the problem for me. Dave
I'd suggest holding the line with one hand, rocking it slightly to make sure its seated properly, holding it in that position, and using the other hand to start the nut and securing it finger tight before using a flare nut wrench.
Last edited by tuxnharley; 10-27-2015 at 03:15 PM.
#6
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Did you buy a stainless steel line or a carbon steel line
#8
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Stick a good magnet to it and see what happens
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
SOLVED... I think...
The Fuel Pump end of the Carb Fuel Line was probably not seated correctly. I followed the advice above, and clamped the inlet hose removed my front wheel/jacked up the car (to get better access) removed the line, inspected the line (it was chromed steel - at least a magnet stuck to it) seemed ok so I put it back on MADE SURE IT WAS SEATED SECURELY then tightened it.
I haven't started the car yet... as I did get some gas all over and I want it all to evaporate first, but the connection is dry so I am fairly confident that all is well.
The Fuel Pump end of the Carb Fuel Line was probably not seated correctly. I followed the advice above, and clamped the inlet hose removed my front wheel/jacked up the car (to get better access) removed the line, inspected the line (it was chromed steel - at least a magnet stuck to it) seemed ok so I put it back on MADE SURE IT WAS SEATED SECURELY then tightened it.
I haven't started the car yet... as I did get some gas all over and I want it all to evaporate first, but the connection is dry so I am fairly confident that all is well.
#10
Burning Brakes
Common problem, even with factory lines. Usually tightening it till it stops leaking works(sometimes requires alot of force) but sometimes no matter how tight you make it it still leaks. In those cases I use flare savers, basically a small cone shaped copper washer. Still have to tighten it alot with the flare savers but that usually will solve the problem.
#11
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Here's what the "flare saver" washer looks like.
#12
Safety Car
Thread Starter
I guess I spoke too soon!
I went and checked last night and its still weeping a bit (not as bad as before)
I am hesitant to torque down on the line in fear of stripping/breaking/causing more trouble.
Does anyone have a few of these flare savors lying around? I have no idea where I'd get em in Germany. I have a US PO Box on base and I'd paypal you compensation.
I went and checked last night and its still weeping a bit (not as bad as before)
I am hesitant to torque down on the line in fear of stripping/breaking/causing more trouble.
Does anyone have a few of these flare savors lying around? I have no idea where I'd get em in Germany. I have a US PO Box on base and I'd paypal you compensation.
#16
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