I will admit that I used some BQuiet mastic mat on the floors of my Cobra replica but in hindsight I don't think I would do so again. Yes, it's probably about the tightest sounding roadster anyone would ever ride in but the mastic/asphalt based stuff is heavy, heavy, heavy. It adds a good deal of weight to the car if you get carried away with it. It can quickly cancel out the weight savings of those nice aluminum heads on the engine.

I was going to do the trunk area also but after realizing how heavy it was I skipped that after realizing how much weight I would be adding. Most performance enthusiast would not want to add weight to a performance car. In hindsight I wish I had installed Frost King on the floors as it probably weighs less than half the asphaltic sound deadner material.

 

with many of the others. If you don't mind adding another 100 plus pounds to your car and spending lots of extra cash use Dynamat.

I chose to use Frost King as well. While not high, it does have an R factor, is a fraction of the weight and cost and did help with noise.

I used it under my carpet which had jute backing AND foil in strategic areas with absolutely no issues.

IMO the installers either just don't want to be bothered or they're inexperienced in which case I'd be tempted to find someone else.

Gary

 

Curiosity has me looking at Frost King. Can any one supply a link...all I turn up is pipe insulation.

I don't see any Frost King product with adhesive backing for easy application.

Thanks..Stan

 

Stan,
I was also curious about Frost King products but could not find any info about sheet or roll products. Most of thier products are common home insulation items. Their stuff is good but I don't see any application information for automobiles.
I would like to know if the products are open cell polymers and also some technical specifications.
As you can probably tell I am a fan of Dynamat and know the owner of Dynamic Controls of North America who produces it.
He is a crazy car guy and I believe his products are excellent and made in the USA.
I must say I don't get any free, so I pay like everyone else...
Take care,
Bruce B

 

Nor can I? ..but I'm still looking.

 

I went to my local Lowes yesterday looking for frost king. All I found was fiberglass duct insulation. However, next to it was a product called Reflectix, which looks like EZ-Cool, aluminum foil both sides.

 

Yep that stuff is pretty common everywhere...probably ok for some things too.

 

I found it at Home Depot just now. Frost King EO.....comes in 12" wide , 1/8" thick 15 foot rolls for $18 and change. This is the stuff we used with good results.

 

HUH...that's odd. When I use both the DynaMat Extreme...which I was told by the company...it reduces 15 degrees Fahrenheit all by itself along with noise reduction...but applying the DynaPAD furthers helps out.

I used to use the DynaMat EXTREMELINER with the lead in it and it GREATLY reduced noise AND heat. The EXTREMELINER is not longer produced due to when Katrina hit...from what I was told...the supplier for the lead was lost and they came up with the medium they use in the middle of the DynaPad.

Once again....there is a person on the forum that can tell you FIRST HAND on how ell this system, works....even in the heat of the summers in the Carolina's and the factory A/C on where it is so cold in the car...he can sell ice cream out of the car... as he put it.

If you want to know...PM me...I will give out it name on the Forum

And ..if people take the time to look...the Dynamat extreme does not even come close to weighing a pound per square foot...and when you figure in the DyanPad...it is still no where close to that. I know that 36 square feet will do from the base of the windshield to the rear seat mounting bolts and have some left over. Odd thing is that worrying about this weight when no one even considers how much weight they are adding to their car when they do a full repaint with current materials. Worrying about the increased curb weight of a car that is not being raced and is driven on the street often times very limited is something that I just can not wrap my head a round. ONCE again...to each his/her own.

DUB

 

I believe this is it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-Kin...V516/100028603

This is what it looks like as installed by the manufacturer of my Cobra replica on the engine side of the foot boxes.

 

You are right on. Doing the whole interior of my 67 ragtop (pics above) maybe added 20-25 pounds to the car. Unless you race your car at Indianapolis in late May, don't worry about the additional weight.

 

what is the 'R" value? just saying it reduces temperature means nothing without an "R" value to judge its insulation capability.
Bill

 

The type you need is the "AIR DUCT" insulation Stan. So you'll need to look in the "heating and air" section. I've found to both at Home Depot and Lowes.

Gary

 

Dub,

With all due respect, that may be added weight for a convertible but it's another story if doing a coupe (including headliner) but do agree, each to his/her own.

Gary

 

Thanks for the link Dan...and Dub for the description

Stan..

 

Bill.

Not knowing if you possibly overlooked the third and fourth paragraph in post #29.

I am not concerned about an 'R' value. I go off of the 'real world' temperature readings. I do not nor never go by what some companies state what product can do. I take it with a grain of salt and test it and see if it comes close to their claims. SO...that is why I go by the 'real world' end results.

The person I referred to that can give you the 'numbers' you seek..I can give you if you want to know. But these 'numbers' will not be an 'R' value...but rather real world temp readings.

Gary,

I do agree....to..."each to his/her own".

I install the Dynamat products to the firewall and floorboards. I must have left that out in what I wrote.

On a 1963-1967... I do not apply anything to the underside of the roof...until I get feed back from the customer...and or test it so see if it is needed depending on the cars paint color.

If the heat that is radiating from the roof of a 1963-1967 Corvette coupe is that big of a concern for the owner.....when a person stops and actually thinks about it. Installing a heat noise barrier product between the headliner and the roof is going to be so minor in weight. I seriously doubt that this added weight would drastically raise the center line of weight....on car that is not being raced/autocrossed but rather enjoyed and driven with some common sense. And if it was being raced and autocrossed. Most of the interior would be ripped out to remove weight.

SO...it all depends on what a person thinks is best for them....and what they want. I have actually read where some people remove the sun visors to lower the centerline weight....on a street car. REALLY!

DUB

 

Now that's definitely on the ****-ridiculous end of the spectrum! That's what, maybe 8-10 ounces?

Gary

 

You would be surprised - there's a guy on the Cobra Forum building an ERA FIA for track work and he is replacing every component he can with the lightest weight parts he can find - and when he has to he fabricates his own. Then he weighs each item (diff cases, half shafts, caliper brackets, suspension bushings, carrier hubs, billet suspension components, etc, etc) photographs them on the digital scales and posts them in his build thread. I think he is shooting for a little over 2000 lbs when he's through. He's definitely in deep if anyone is interested in reading it.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-...ye-kansas.html

 

Dan,

Sure, I can see working on every bit of weight reduction in regards to a track/race car but, I just can't imagine removing the sun visors on the "street driven" car Dub made reference to. That's just asinine!

Gary

 

dynamat is greater density and is butyl, not foam