Frame Paint Help Please
#1
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Thread Starter
Frame Paint Help Please
Started blocking the first coat of slick sand on the frame, will put one more coat and wet sand. What would you apply to the frame BC/CC or single stage spray can?
#2
Le Mans Master
Many opinions on this but if it were mine I would spray it well with epoxy primer- like SPI. It will be be durable and attractive for years to come and not have a greasy sheen. It is rock hard, airtight, and resists contaminants well.
Just if it were mine.
Just if it were mine.
#6
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Thread Starter
What are you insinuating by over restored? I could have painted my car and not touched the frame, new suit with muddy shoes!
Benton, here is a shot of the frame after I had it sandblasted. I sprayed black epoxy PPG, thought it looked good but didnt know how durable it would be.
Benton, here is a shot of the frame after I had it sandblasted. I sprayed black epoxy PPG, thought it looked good but didnt know how durable it would be.
#7
Le Mans Master
Sorry Jeht- it has epoxy already then slick sand to make it a little smoother and now you want to topcoat? I think I would once more do epoxy. Still my preference.
I used DP90 from ppg many years ago. They have improved it I believe and it was good back then. Nothing bad to say about it. I do like the SPI.
I used DP90 from ppg many years ago. They have improved it I believe and it was good back then. Nothing bad to say about it. I do like the SPI.
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Jeht (05-27-2016)
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Jeht (05-27-2016)
#9
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Thread Starter
Thank you. Is this product what you have on the frame in the pic? It looks like a semi rather than a flat color of the PPG epoxy. The color on your frame is what I'm looking for.
#10
Burning Brakes
Sorry Jeht- it has epoxy already then slick sand to make it a little smoother and now you want to topcoat? I think I would once more do epoxy. Still my preference.
I used DP90 from ppg many years ago. They have improved it I believe and it was good back then. Nothing bad to say about it. I do like the
SPI.
I used DP90 from ppg many years ago. They have improved it I believe and it was good back then. Nothing bad to say about it. I do like the
SPI.
#11
Race Director
FOR WHAT THIS IS WORTH:
Applying an epoxy primer before the 'slicksand' was a good move. NO DOUBT there!
Be careful of the thickness of your slicksand. Keep in mind you can stack layers and get the metal really slick and smooth...BUT...the downside effect of doing that is that it can chip REALLY EASY...and when you have body ground straps that need to be attached...you need to grind the stuff off to bare steel so you are actually getting a good ground....and then apply a die-electric grease to that area so the steel does not rust.
On top of the slicksand I would apply another coat of the epoxy if I did it that way.
The old school PPG epoxy.... where it is still mixed 1:1 is out there and in a commercial line....or you can use the SPI stuff ( I never had...but it seems to be good stuff) or the DP90LF.....or spray paint it with whatever you choose.
I PERSONALLY do not think PPG IMPROVED on the DP90...I think what they did was design it to comply with EPA stuff and make it so people in the industry would use it. What I used back when the stuff hit the market is NOT what they sell in the mainstream of products today. Going from a 1:1 mix to a 2:1 mix...and then the 402 hardener that came out for immediate mix and shoot.... instead of the 401 which made a person have to wait 30 minutes for the chemicals to induct with each other. I just like the old stuff myself....and I am not saying that the new stuff is crap...because it is not.
DUB
Applying an epoxy primer before the 'slicksand' was a good move. NO DOUBT there!
Be careful of the thickness of your slicksand. Keep in mind you can stack layers and get the metal really slick and smooth...BUT...the downside effect of doing that is that it can chip REALLY EASY...and when you have body ground straps that need to be attached...you need to grind the stuff off to bare steel so you are actually getting a good ground....and then apply a die-electric grease to that area so the steel does not rust.
On top of the slicksand I would apply another coat of the epoxy if I did it that way.
The old school PPG epoxy.... where it is still mixed 1:1 is out there and in a commercial line....or you can use the SPI stuff ( I never had...but it seems to be good stuff) or the DP90LF.....or spray paint it with whatever you choose.
I PERSONALLY do not think PPG IMPROVED on the DP90...I think what they did was design it to comply with EPA stuff and make it so people in the industry would use it. What I used back when the stuff hit the market is NOT what they sell in the mainstream of products today. Going from a 1:1 mix to a 2:1 mix...and then the 402 hardener that came out for immediate mix and shoot.... instead of the 401 which made a person have to wait 30 minutes for the chemicals to induct with each other. I just like the old stuff myself....and I am not saying that the new stuff is crap...because it is not.
DUB
#13
Le Mans Master
I agree it would be a shame not to treat the inside!
#14
Race Director
A messy job ( YES..I AGREE) and if the inside of the frame is a major concern of my customer....I would then now be able to suggest sending the frame off and have it dipped.
DUB
#15
Race Director
Had my frame acid dipped - then sprayed rust inhibitor (don't remember the brand) inside with a long spray attachment. Then shot it with DP90.
11 years later, it still looks good - very durable. In fact I went to strip some of the bumper mounts that were originally finished as above and that DP90 just doesn't come off. Amazing adhesion and durability.
Finish is satin.
11 years later, it still looks good - very durable. In fact I went to strip some of the bumper mounts that were originally finished as above and that DP90 just doesn't come off. Amazing adhesion and durability.
Finish is satin.
#17
Race Director
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In the industry, rust inhibitor wax is sprayed inside frame rails with a long tube to protect against corrosion. This started in the 1990's. As for me, the very thought of block sanding a frame is absurd. But then, I'm in California and am used to rust free old cars. For me, a spray bomb of semi-gloss chassis paint is fine. Looks appropriate and holds up. Over restored cars do nothing for me.
#18
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Thread Starter
In the industry, rust inhibitor wax is sprayed inside frame rails with a long tube to protect against corrosion. This started in the 1990's. As for me, the very thought of block sanding a frame is absurd. But then, I'm in California and am used to rust free old cars. For me, a spray bomb of semi-gloss chassis paint is fine. Looks appropriate and holds up. Over restored cars do nothing for me.
What you may find absurd is your personal opinion, you and BUBBA can spray bomb all you want!
Only reason the frame was sanded is to clean up imperfections from a 50 year old car which had been driven over the course of it's life. I'm not on here to get in a pissing/shouting contest war of words, I look for help and advise from fellow enthusiast.
#19
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Geez, take a ! GTOguy clearly stated he was expressing his own opinion, which is just as valid as anyone else's when opinions have been requested. Nobody is talking about a pissing contest except you, I don't understand your hostility.
#20
Race Director
The ONLY way to protect the inside of the frame is stated by DUB in earlier post. The magic wand is not not to protect if you are planning on doing it correct, it needs to be dipped.
What you may find absurd is your personal opinion, you and BUBBA can spray bomb all you want!
Only reason the frame was sanded is to clean up imperfections from a 50 year old car which had been driven over the course of it's life. I'm not on here to get in a pissing/shouting contest war of words, I look for help and advise from fellow enthusiast.
What you may find absurd is your personal opinion, you and BUBBA can spray bomb all you want!
Only reason the frame was sanded is to clean up imperfections from a 50 year old car which had been driven over the course of it's life. I'm not on here to get in a pissing/shouting contest war of words, I look for help and advise from fellow enthusiast.
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Jeht (06-05-2016)