When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Maybe, but my 70 Vette was a no-hit 350 CID with 10 years of Chicago area daily driving at the time (probably at around 165K miles), and after a complete front suspension rebuild with Moog parts, it still "needed" one. Solved the issue completely for a total of 247K daily driven miles, before I sold it.
I'll take ten years of daily driving in the Chicago area up to 165k miles a good candidate! When the frame shop 'rolls' the frame back into it's oem position, the A-arm mounting areas are known to re-settle into their previous inward position sometimes. Just about all the cars I've seen that had slightly sagged front frames that HAD the offset shafts installed never had an alignment issue again. Once the frame sags somewhat, it tends to stay there.
And all the same alignment measurements are taken on a C1 as a C2.....the numbers may be different, but the printout and diagram posted is exactly what a professional shop will provide after performing a wheel alignment. The illustration posted applies to just about every car on the road. Old and new.
Thanks for all the input from everyone. Here is the printout and the suggestion from my shop as to the best fix. They say the offset shaft is not enough and I should use the adjustable control arm. Thoughts?
Thanks for all the input from everyone. Here is the printout and the suggestion from my shop as to the best fix. They say the offset shaft is not enough and I should use the adjustable control arm. Thoughts?
how does it drive/handle right now after the alignment you show in the report above? all of the parameters, except for caster, seem to be within spec.
Bill
PS: that is a cool looking a-frame....; what's something like that cost?
I did install the offset shaft on my 64, and I have plenty enough thread on the standard A arm bolts to get the settings right, including higher than standard 3.5° caster for my Borgeson PS. If your shop says that caster is not very important I would prefer my mother to align the wheels. She turned 89 today
I did install the offset shaft on my 64, and I have plenty enough thread on the standard A arm bolts to get the settings right, including higher than standard 3.5° caster for my Borgeson PS. If your shop says that caster is not very important I would prefer my mother to align the wheels. She turned 89 today
caster is important for self-centering of the steering and stability, but is not an absolute necessity; but I wouldn't want to do without a certain amount of it...
Thanks for all the input from everyone. Here is the printout and the suggestion from my shop as to the best fix. They say the offset shaft is not enough and I should use the adjustable control arm. Thoughts?
Your caster is WAY off. You want POSITIVE caster. Your readout shows negative caster.
How many shims do you have at each location?
I find it difficult to believe that both sides could have THAT much positive camber and THAT much negative caster. If only one side was that far off I might suspect a tweaked frame, but BOTH sides...
There is definitely something rotten in Denmark.
The suggestion that the upper controls arms were incorrectly installed side to side is a good start. Get together with another C2/3 and visually compare. Look at your AIM and note that the right/left upper control arm/shaft assemblies are different part numbers.
What maintenance/restoration history do you have on the front suspension?
Although no expert in C2's, if the A-arms are different, it's where I'd start. Some caster is needed to stabilize and center the car and for steering wheel return. Negative caster like that shown would give the car the stability of a bicycle with its handlebars and forks flipped backwards....not good in a performance car.
