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My car was sent off to have the wheels aligned this week and I have a slight problem. The mechanic tells me that he cannot get the left front caster and the right front wheel camber within the correct specs. He said that the caster issue is not that important as it only moves the wheel forward and back (?) but the camber issue needs attention. He said there may be a camber kit available for the car . They also said that they may be able to install a longer upper a-arm shaft so they can add more shims to correct the issue. I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar issue or knows about a camber kit availability and where to get it and would a longer a-arm be available for the car. Thank you for any input you have.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Oof.
First, are you confident in the quality and knowledge of the shop, including their ability on older cars? The comment to ignore the inability to set the caster would turn me off ("not that important? - really?")
Second, how close was it to being on alignment before they started - close or way out? They should have written down the "before" readings.
Third, do you need to get a second opinion? Perhaps from a specialty shop? It's a lot cheaper, and possibly better, than what is being proposed.
Fourth, does the car drive okay, and do the tires seem to wear evenly?
Lastly, and perhaps most importantly, how is your frame? Is there any possible history of frame damage (and why didn't the shop mention this?). There should be few to no cars that cannot be properly aligned with factory specification frames.
As 66jack has stated there is no 'offset' upper shaft for your car.
Did the shop give you and numbers? Ask for specific readings and post them.
I have an article I wrote about understanding front end alignment, if you want a copy send me your email address.
Joe
Very interesting comment from that link: "Normally, when using a stock cross shaft, you can not get enough caster without generating too much negative camber. The offset shaft fixes the problem. You can flip the shaft and pull the tire in for more negative camber so you don't have to use so many shims. This decision will be based of the frame condition or type of driving you intend to do."
So, Globalwest is saying that this is a known problem?
To begin, yes, the suspension is stock. I do have confidence in the shop as I've done business there for many years.
I don't recall how far out the camber was but he did have a printout of the before and after.
I haven't driven the car yet so I can't comment about that.
And finally, yes, there was some frame damage fro a previous accident. The car was put on a frame machine and straightened. I did consider this as a possible cause.
I may have misunderstood the a-arm vs the bolts. So if I was to get longer bolts for the upper shaft I may be able to correct the problem provided it's a small problem, correct? When I got the car there were quite a few shims in the upper a-arm prior to the disassembly and frame straightening.
Very interesting comment from that link: "Normally, when using a stock cross shaft, you can not get enough caster without generating too much negative camber. The offset shaft fixes the problem. You can flip the shaft and pull the tire in for more negative camber so you don't have to use so many shims. This decision will be based of the frame condition or type of driving you intend to do."
So, Globalwest is saying that this is a known problem?
The shop told me just what you said re: getting enough caster without generating too much negative camber. I only intend some pleasure driving, weekend and show stuff. No trips.
In addition to the offset upper a-arm shaft there may be eccentric a-arm bushings available that could help. I know MOOG had them for my 67 Plymouth GTX and I used them last winter when re-building the front suspension for it. I haven't found them for the Corvette - possibly the bushings are too small in diameter to be able to make an eccentric one work.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by Mikey Hawks
To begin, yes, the suspension is stock. I do have confidence in the shop as I've done business there for many years.
I don't recall how far out the camber was but he did have a printout of the before and after.
I haven't driven the car yet so I can't comment about that.
And finally, yes, there was some frame damage fro a previous accident. The car was put on a frame machine and straightened. I did consider this as a possible cause.
I may have misunderstood the a-arm vs the bolts. So if I was to get longer bolts for the upper shaft I may be able to correct the problem provided it's a small problem, correct? When I got the car there were quite a few shims in the upper a-arm prior to the disassembly and frame straightening.
Wait!
What settings is your mechanic calling "correct specs"?
If you have radials, you'll want somewhat different settings from the original specs, which were for bias ply tires.
Knowing all the numbers is necessary for a reasonable answer.
I did the 'longer bolt' thing on a 66 Mustang I auto-crossed and the bolt broke mid-course. Don't do it.
Make sure your guy is versed in these cars, has the right equipment and is doing a full four wheel alignment only THEN decide if you have issues. This machine local to me is the one the GM factory used on the line to calibrate others (according to JohnZ).
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Dec 11, 2016 at 10:55 AM.
To begin, yes, the suspension is stock. I do have confidence in the shop as I've done business there for many years.
I don't recall how far out the camber was but he did have a printout of the before and after.
I haven't driven the car yet so I can't comment about that.
And finally, yes, there was some frame damage fro a previous accident. The car was put on a frame machine and straightened. I did consider this as a possible cause.
I may have misunderstood the a-arm vs the bolts. So if I was to get longer bolts for the upper shaft I may be able to correct the problem provided it's a small problem, correct? When I got the car there were quite a few shims in the upper a-arm prior to the disassembly and frame straightening.
I don't recall how far out the camber was but he did have a printout of the before and after.
You should have left the shop with that printout that shows the initial and final alignment settings. If you don't have it go back to the shop as the data is probably still in the computer and post it here.
Trying to understand the problem much less a solution without the actual data is just pissing into the wind.
Anyone who takes a car to an alignment shop should leave with the printout as described above. If you don't, you have wasted your time and money.
I do alignments. The offset control arm shafts have been around forever to correct 'frame roll' common in big block A-body cars. A lot of times, it can be something as simple as an overlooked bad upper ball joint, causing negative camber (top of tire tipped in). A clue to a sagging frame is still having negative camber even with the shims removed. My suggestion would be to verify that the alignment tech is familiar with older cars, and have him do a 4 wheel alignment check, with printout. You will get your rear wheel readings, thrust angle, SAI readings (to verify bent or straight steering arms), cross-caster and cross-camber and toe readings. My gut tells me you have one or more worn parts and don't need off-set A arm shafts. Not with a small block. They are usually needed in heavily thrashed big block vehicles and in farm vehicles that get beaten off road for years.
I do alignments. The offset control arm shafts have been around forever to correct 'frame roll' common in big block A-body cars. A lot of times, it can be something as simple as an overlooked bad upper ball joint, causing negative camber (top of tire tipped in). A clue to a sagging frame is still having negative camber even with the shims removed. My suggestion would be to verify that the alignment tech is familiar with older cars, and have him do a 4 wheel alignment check, with printout. You will get your rear wheel readings, thrust angle, SAI readings (to verify bent or straight steering arms), cross-caster and cross-camber and toe readings. My gut tells me you have one or more worn parts and don't need off-set A arm shafts. Not with a small block. They are usually needed in heavily thrashed big block vehicles and in farm vehicles that get beaten off road for years.
Maybe, but my 70 Vette was a no-hit 350 CID with 10 years of Chicago area daily driving at the time (probably at around 165K miles), and after a complete front suspension rebuild with Moog parts, it still "needed" one. Solved the issue completely for a total of 247K daily driven miles, before I sold it.