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The "X" brace wasn't that big a deal to me at the time as both sections had been broken at some point and re-welded; very weird and I don't know why...the car exhibited NO signs of front end damage; e.g. original headlight header bar, core support, etc..and original blonde factory glass on valence, tail light panels, inner fender skirts, 63 only control arms, hood surround, and pristine, original 63 fiberglass headlight buckets.
I have no explanation. Removing it got the condensor up near the radiator nicely. In addition you can add this top "gap flap"; used on later mid year A/C cars but works on a '63 with a little trimming, I run one...helps direct air flow more efficiently.
Dr. Rebuild has the correct versions, properly formed...if you get one order the 6 retaining clips (as shown in the picture)
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jan 3, 2017 at 10:40 AM.
Frankie, it looks like you have a 3/4" gap (maybe more) between rad and condenser. I'm impressed you are getting 40F blowing out. From the hot rod forums I've been reading about VA installs, they seem to indicate the condenser shouldn't have much air gap around the edges as air will tend to flow around the condenser and thru those gaps as its the path of least flow restriction. But with how your system is working, it doesn't seem to matter. Now one thing I'm thinking is you are taking this reading with the car sitting at idle? ... or was this while you were driving at cruising speed? I'm just curious to know if the condenser works as effectively at 60 mph when the air can leak around it?
I am planning to add the foam strips that 390hp BB cars use to close the gap between the rad support and the rad on the sides and bottom, and also that rubber flapper that goes on the top like you did. I need to put those on anyway just to force all the air coming in thru the rad. Cheers, Bill
Thanks Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; Jan 3, 2017 at 11:37 AM.
Bill, thats awesome! 38F ... are you serious. Should be icicles hanging from those vents!
38 on one, 32 on the other, both on the passenger side..., have never checked the 2 on the driver's side. BUT C1s are so leaky (air/water...) and with a BIG green house effect from the hard top windows, every little bit helps...
Bill
the rectangular outlet on the side of the console has since been replaced with an eyeball vent like the one on the left
38 on one, 32 on the other, both on the passenger side..., have never checked the 2 on the driver's side. BUT C1s are so leaky (air/water...) and with a BIG green house effect from the hard top windows, every little bit helps...
Bill
the rectangular outlet on the side of the console has since been replaced with an eyeball vent like the one on the left
You dudes in FL have this chit all figured out. Appreciate your help.
Up here in the frozen north, its only HOT in an L72 anytime the motor is running ... which is usually from April till Nov when it goes back for its winter nap. Bill
I had 2 65 coupes when I lived in Michigan; they were miserable in the summertime as there is very little air flow into/though them... a/c is a necessity in a coupe..
I dunno why but my '63s "X" brace was in the way big time. Trust me, I don't screw with originality if I don't need to... I've seen a dozen other midyears with the "X" brace with Vintage Air and a few that also had to cut them out. Not sure what the difference is...
I remember you mentioned about cutting the X brace on your '63. .. Having a likely similar radiator support frame and my car being a '64, I thought I would have the same problem installing VA. The condensor fit was close to the X brace but the VA supplied brackets allowed enough clearance between the two.
John
The temp shown in my pic is cruising down Rt 429 in Florida at about 65mph...now in my coupe I put foil insulation in the roof, floor and behind the dash up top...no extra in the doors. Just don't add A/C if you're considering flight judging..but that's a WHOLE other thread topic. FYI - I was just emailed some info from a midyear chapter judging where the total deduct was 135 points...
So the deduct for this mod can range from 12pts (seen with my own eyes on a '67) at a Regional to 135 points at a Chapter-judged C2. But, but, but -- the judging is against an "objective standard". I don't care if its 500 pts - but somebody needs to get their s**t together...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jan 3, 2017 at 03:56 PM.
The temp shown in my pic is cruising down Rt 429 in Florida at about 65mph...now in my coupe I put foil insulation in the roof, floor and behind the dash up top...no extra in the doors. Just don't add A/C if you're considering flight judging..but that's a WHOLE other thread topic. FYI - I was just emailed some info from a midyear chapter judging where the total deduct was 135 points...
So the deduct for this mod can range from 12pts (seen with my own eyes on a '67) at a Regional to 135 points at a Chapter-judged C2. But, but, but -- the judging is against an "objective standard". I don't care if its 500 pts - but somebody needs to get their s**t together...
Frankie, the points deduct spread is probably because different experienced judges are deducting as they find changes (we've made) to what came out of St. Louis ... you added this, you took that off, you moved this and that, etc. So everything we're moving, modifying and changing from "as built" standards is a series of deducts. Just my guess how you get to 135 points. Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; Jan 3, 2017 at 05:20 PM.
I remember you mentioned about cutting the X brace on your '63. .. Having a likely similar radiator support frame and my car being a '64, I thought I would have the same problem installing VA. The condensor fit was close to the X brace but the VA supplied brackets allowed enough clearance between the two.
John
Yes they do John ... but in doing so it leaves quite a gap for air flow to get thru. Bill
Frankie, the points deduct spread is probably because different experienced judges are deducting as they find changes (we've made) to what came out of St. Louis ... you added this, you took that off, you moved this and that, etc. So everything we're moving, modifying and changing from "as built" standards is a series of deducts. Just my guess how you get to 135 points. Bill
As stated, its just a warning to owners considering the changes. The ludicrous, indefensible 'point spread' is, again as stated, another topic...
The temp shown in my pic is cruising down Rt 429 in Florida at about 65mph ...(snip)...
I find that quite amazing Frankie ... you system is working really well indeed. But you did remove your X brace so your condenser has minimal air flow around it which is great.
Like I mentioned, I'm gonna make up new full-length mounting brackets for the condenser so I can avoid cutting my X brace, and close off all the gaps around the perimeter of the condenser for maximum flow thru it.
As you did, I am also going to install heat barrier insulation on my floors, firewall and doors to try to minimize the heat gain in the cockpit from a snorting BBC. Bill
My system is a freak...the certified guy that evacuated and charged the system was amazed at how 'tight' it all was...
Are you guys all using the Sanden compressor that comes with the VA kit? I have an A6 compressor I was planning to rebuild and use as I like the looks of it better than the new ones. I realize the new compressors are a little less drag on the engine, but then I have enough HP to spare Bill
Are you guys all using the Sanden compressor that comes with the VA kit? I have an A6 compressor I was planning to rebuild and use as I like the looks of it better than the new ones. I realize the new compressors are a little less drag on the engine, but then I have enough HP to spare Bill
Check to make sure that doing that won't affect the warranty on the other VA system parts.
Yes the Sandun is more efficient for cooling and less taxing on the engine.
I would bet it's less prone to leaks too and so doesn't require a shield to keep the hood from being ruined
.... I did read somewhere (not in the VA install instructions) where you want the condenser no more than a 3/16" gap in front of the radiator. ....
Now I am confused: Is the reasoning that in case of a 'close' condensor all air coming in from the front of the car will be pushed through the condensor (hence cool it) and then through the radiator, while if it's not close, air may bypass the condensor through the gaps on the side? And what about the electric fan that is hooked up to the condensor, that one seems to obstruct a large portion of the cooling air anyway (unless it is turning). Maybe I am stupid...