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mine is the curved blades and is kinda sorta quiet; and, brick wall or not, for whatever reason, it works... I have NO overheating or cooling problems
I wish I could tell you the brand, but it was generic and a long time ago and I've slept a couple of time since; but the condenser is only 14 inches tall and if you look at the pictures you can get an idea of the shape and then do a google or ebay search for a curved blade pusher fan.
Bill
Bill
Thanks Bill, if it works, no need to question
I will first try as Frankie did and see how that goes: a 7 blade fan, a more aggressive clutch (or clutch eliminator) and without the electric fan.
By the way: anyone ever tried the clutch eliminator (is hard mounting the fan to the waterpump, so engine speed and fan speed always one to one)
Yes - I ran an eliminator in the '61....you'll have more noise but it'll work fine. You still want the fan blades 1/2 way into the shroud. Problem with electrical fans is current draw and how to wire it; binary or trinary switch and prob need a beefier alterntor.
I wouldn't put a flex fan on a dog sled....nearly lost a thumb to one and it wasn't even moving...when they are moving they can be like a bad Kung Fu movie (The Flying Guillotine) if a blade comes off...
My personal opinion but others can do as they like...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jan 6, 2017 at 07:48 AM.
I wouldn't put a flex fan on a dog sled....nearly lost a thumb to one and it wasn't even moving...when they are moving they can be like a bad Kung Fu movie (The Flying Guillotine) if a blade comes off...
My personal opinion but others can do as they like...
Ok boyz ... I've been fiddling with sheet metal lately. I didn't really want to cut out my X brace in the rad support, and I'm hoping to avoid needing a pusher fan, so ...
I decided those 3 little brackets (in the forefront of 1st pic) Vintage Air sends with the kit were not gonna be acceptable as too much air can leak around the condenser when it sits over 1" off the rad support.
So I bent up 4 new metal brackets to mount the condenser. Its basically sitting about where the VA brackets position it, but my new brackets completely close in the air gaps all around. So nearly all frontal air has to go thru the condenser first, then the rad. The only leakage from the front-side will be the little cut-outs I made for attaching the pipes to the condenser. I had to bend both end brackets up twice to get them to fit perfect. On the backside, the condenser sits a little under 1/4" above the X brace.
I still have to add the 3 foam strips to the inside of the rad support plus the rubber flapper thingy Frankie mentioned to the top.
Fyi in the event it helps others so inclined to do something similar. Bill
Last edited by NightshiftHD; Jan 15, 2017 at 02:55 PM.
Hey Lucky Guy, I might add........I also added an electric fan w/tstat along with the engine fan.
sorry to revive such an old thread but I've been thinking of adding a electric fan as my 327/300 runs too hot around town or stopped traffic. What kind of change did you see in adding the additional fan?
Thanks
sorry to revive such an old thread but I've been thinking of adding a electric fan as my 327/300 runs too hot around town or stopped traffic. What kind of change did you see in adding the additional fan?
Thanks
Don, is yours an A/C car too? Whenever a car is running hot, there is a reason and the solution is to fix that problem. Throwing an electric fan on the problem may provide some help, but to my way of thinking its throwing money at the wrong thing. My $0.02 for whatever its worth. Cheers, Bill
These A6 style compressors use the double lip front seal to address the issue of oil leaking from the front seal (and onto the underside of your hood).
There is also the aluminum PRO6TEN compressor as an option for a compressor that looks like an A6 compressor.
I can't imagine the pain of changing plugs with one of those big A6 style compressors on the car. With aftermarket air you're not fooling anyone anyway so I don't see the point...
It would be interesting to see if these units got the same NCRS deduction as the Sanden units...
I can't imagine the pain of changing plugs with one of those big A6 style compressors on the car. With aftermarket air you're not fooling anyone anyway so I don't see the point...
It would be interesting to see if these units got the same NCRS deduction as the Sanden units...
I have so much 'stuff' under the hood that it takes me 6 hours to change sparkplugs....
Bill
Don, is yours an A/C car too? Whenever a car is running hot, there is a reason and the solution is to fix that problem. Throwing an electric fan on the problem may provide some help, but to my way of thinking its throwing money at the wrong thing. My $0.02 for whatever its worth. Cheers, Bill
Nah, you're right.. I should really get to the root of the issue. Car runs normal temps in everything but stop and go so I've not been too bothered but I guess bothered enough to ask Thinking I should change the thermostat, water pump (both are very old) and check the timing beyond that ?? Radiator is a new Dewitts. Engine has about 3,000 miles on rebuild and runs strong. Oh, and no A/C yet but will need to get this issue resolved first.
Last edited by don lemelin; Sep 13, 2018 at 09:57 AM.
The thermostat is prob no help, the water pump might be....repro or badly rebuilt pumps can have overly thick casting impeding flow or a bad rebuild can have one of those impellers made out of a Coke can...
I'm thinking of adding air conditioning to my '66 coupe. Any suggestions on which kit to use? Any ideas what the cost might be for someone to do the installation?
Many thanks.
I paid someone 1200.00 to install Vintage AC in my 62. The cost of a larger fan, clutch and other asssorted items like pulleys, mounts etc were, of course, extra.
In the end total cost out the door was about 4500.00 which included ALL parts, wiring changes we decided to make, freon, coolant etc.
Eddie