I'm thinking of adding air conditioning to my '66 coupe. Any suggestions on which kit to use? Any ideas what the cost might be for someone to do the installation?

Many thanks.

 

I have a 67 factory A/C coupe and the PO took the system off before I bought it. After several years looking for a factory system to add it back, I started looking at aftermarket system.
I narrowed it down to 2 systems (Old Air Products & Vintage Air). I went back and forth, with final decison with OLD AIR PRODUCTS. The reason was 2. Installing this system I could get a A6 compressor (old style) and I wouldn't lose part of my Glove Box.

The system is 3 years old now , and no problems yet.
So, my advice to you is to research and compare to what you like and read reviews.

 

I wouldn't use anything but Vintage Air A/C....you do lose about 1/2 the glove box depth (which I really don't care about); I installed mine in 4 days by myself as a 'first-timer'...

I live in Orlando and this is a pic on a 95* day rolling down interstate in the summer...

Its tight getting the evaporator under the dash but it DOES go and routing the 4 hoses through the PS fresh air vent is fun too...that's the only tricky bits...

Nuf sed...

 

I also installed a Vintage Air system in my 66 black/black coupe. I live up the road from Frankie and driving in the summer without it is awful, especially when we get our daily afternoon rain showers. It took me about 20 hours to install. I could probably do it in about 10 hours now. You should be able to down load the install instructions from the Vintage Air website and see for yourself if you want to tackle the job. Lastly, use the search feature on the forum. There is a wealth of information available. Jerry

 

I should add that the Vintage Air also give you kick-azz defrosters and heat. You should consider your electrical and coolant systems as part of the upgrade. I had my stock alternator enhanced internally to 70 amp output and put a truck clutch fan on the car. NO electric fans..

 

Frankie, what truck clutch fan did you use?

 

The Hayden 2747.....it rotates at a great percentage of full speed under all conditions and kicks in earlier in the temp range - also went with a 7 blade fan...

 

Hey Lucky Guy, I might add........I also added an electric fan w/tstat along with the engine fan.

 

My dad has a 67' 327/350hp Air coupe that the factory air half *** worked on. We used it for a summer and fought to keep it working, trying to keep A6 compressors alive(blowing seals), only to have the evaporator start leaking. Finally we switched to Vintage Air . The vintage air blows harder, colder and less drag on the engine when the compressor is cycled on. We get about 42-43* vent temps.

We have all of the factory stuff boxed up and ready to go with the car to the next "care taker".

For $1500, you can't beat Vintage Air for a car you actually drive.

 

Also went with VA in my '64. .. A couple of things the instructions said to do (6 inches cut off right side shifter console plate leg; **** mounting holes drilled larger to accept electronic control rotary pots; holes drilled to secure mounting brackets to Z bar).
I didn't do. Clearance is very tight with right side shifter plate leg left intact, but it will go The rotary pot stems were modified (ground/threaded) to accept the factory size **** holes. The evap brackets were installed resting on top of the Z bar. The only hole drilled was through the firewall, required to drain evap condensation.
​​​​​
As mentioned the hardest part of the VA installation is shoe horning in the evap case. Routing water and air hoses also fun.........especially with factory radio installed. ..

The standard factory 5 blade fan and fan clutch are being used. So far, these have been adequate. The exception is on very hot days (100+) when idling to​​​​o long. Two upgrade items to facilitate the VA installation that were added were a greater amp alternator (55 amp) and an idle stop solenoid.

BTW - Frankie, 39.9 on a 95 degree day..........impressive. .. Wish my system worked that good!
John

 

Yes. If you want to save your factory ***** then order some repros to drill out for the Vintage Air A/C controls....you CAN save the "X" brace in front of the radiator when mounting the condensor if you're tricky.

No way was I cutting an original (expensive) center console extension piece in my '63 -- as stated you can also make that fit back in unmodified...

 

I had a VA system put in my '67 convertible by the dealer where I bought the car as part of the deal before I took delivery of the car.

Considering all the air leaks in a convertible, it works well in my car but it doesn't push out air cold enough to hang meat like in Frankie's car.

I think I paid $2,500 or $3,000 installed, I can't remember but it doesn't matter. It wasn't a job I was going to attempt myself, the car I was buying didn't have A/C, and I won't own a car in Florida without it.

I upgraded my original 37 amp alternator to 100 amps and added a DeWitts radiator / SPAL fan combo. I don't use the fan much.

Steve

 

Installed va in my 67 big block a few years back.. Only way you can use that car in the summer.. Dewitts rad. Spal fan up graded my alt.96 amp 7 blade ac fan and a smaller big block ac water pump pully .. Is now ready for hot summer days..has worked great... Took a while to hook up .. Good luck

 

Frankie, I have also bought the Vintage Air kit for my 66 L72 roadster (not installed yet) and wondering why you needed to cut the X brace off the front of your rad support to mount the condenser?

I put the 3 mounting brackets on my condensor rad and it will sit on the front of my rad cradle without touching the X brace behind it. It probably clears it by 1/8" or so. Maybe BB rad cradles are different than SB ones on the front side. Bill

 

typically you want the condenser as close as possible , without touching, the radiator...

from the Griffin website:

There should be 1/4" – 3/8" (no more than 1/2") between the A/C condenser and the radiator. If there is too much space the air will go around the condenser. The condenser cannot go on the backside of radiator. Temperature of the air leaving the radiator is too high for a condenser to reject the heat required for proper A/C operation.

so, that is why the x-brace is often removed.



Bill

ps: I used a pusher fan in front of my condenser in my 62, therefore spacing is/was not an issue.

 

I dunno why but my '63s "X" brace was in the way big time. Trust me, I don't screw with originality if I don't need to... I've seen a dozen other midyears with the "X" brace with Vintage Air and a few that also had to cut them out. Not sure what the difference is...

 

Thanks Bill & Frankie. I did read somewhere (not in the VA install instructions) where you want the condenser no more than a 3/16" gap in front of the radiator. The way it mounts using the VA-supplied brackets on a BB midyear rad support, it results in a 1-1/8" gap. I could reverse the brackets and that would recess it in by 3/8", but it will still be 3/4" or double the recommendation ... and I would have to cut out my X brace to do it, which I really prefer not to do since that adds stability to the whole front end.

I think I will go with plan B which is to bend up 4 new brackets ... full length on all 4 sides so I can mount it without cutting my X brace, but when installed it will completely close in all gaps around it to force 100% air thru it. New brackets is a little more work to fab up, but much better I think than trying to stuff the openings all around with dense foam. Cheers, Bill

 

good plan... and if that doesn't work out, I suggest a pusher fan in front of the condenser; that way you can space it as far out as you want and not unnecessarily block air flow to the radiator.

Bill

 

Thanks Bill, but I'm hoping to avoid a pusher fan. Not sure we have the room for one anyway the way C2 hoods drop down into the gap when you raise them. Cheers, Bill

 

so do C1s...; you just need to drop the condenser/fan low enough to let the hood clear.

Bill