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The best penetration oil can be made from ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone. That might free it up if the cylinders aren't rusty. It may take weeks. I have seen a few older engines brought back to life this way without teardown. !
I've read this a bunch of times and I have tried it on small parts but have found the acetone and tranny fluid DOES NOT STAY MIXED (think oil and water). After a short period of time, you have distinct separation. So, for a long term soak how can that work? I never had good results on the tough jobs even though others say they have.
From: Middle TN by way of KY, OH, VA, IL, CA, FL, NY, SC, HI
Originally Posted by Pilot Dan
I've read this a bunch of times and I have tried it on small parts but have found the acetone and tranny fluid DOES NOT STAY MIXED (think oil and water). After a short period of time, you have distinct separation. So, for a long term soak how can that work? I never had good results on the tough jobs even though others say they have.
I am a huge proponent of ATF/acetone penetrant, and I agree. I mix it and use in the 2 oz containers, and if it's not kept agitated it stratifies very quickly, separating the ATF and acetone.
For a stuck engine, I would just use any low viscosity lubricant over a long period of time.
I successfully used marvel mystery oil squirted down the cylinders in my 38 Chev coupe that had a stuck engine after sitting for 30 years. After a week or two of oil soaking,
I removed the inspection cover and used a long heavy flat blade screw driver to begin to pry the flywheel one direction ,then the other. Soon it was free and turned easily.
With a little gas down the carb and a good battery it started and ran OK. Later I did have to change a bad head gasket and the cylinders looked good with no pitting.
The old coupe had been sitting outside for 30 years but it was in the fairly dry climate here in eastern Washington. Good luck, Doug
Last edited by Workin On 59; Jan 4, 2017 at 07:14 PM.
Reason: typo
One other suggestion.. you might step up from the MM Oil to something with a bit more 'kick'.. Nothing to loose, right? Maybe PB Blaster?
When I had stuck intake valves, it took 4-5 applications of PB Blaster and tapping with a hammer (24 hours between sessions) to break them free... and they were stuck so hard it bent the pushrods like twigs.
I have unstuck many engines that went on to years of service. Trans oil in each cylinder, remove plugs and work back and forth on crank pulley. Don't force, little bit at a time. If you can't move with crank pulley, try suggestion above on flywheel teeth. And, try to find what condition it was in when parked. Spun bearing? Forget it.
I had kroil in my stuck L79 for over a year and it did not break my rust loose. There have been tests done that show the 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF worked better than all sold products. Worked wonders for me. I am a believer now. It broke down the rust in my cylinders. I had the heads off and it worked very well. PB blaster was a distant 3rd place behind Kroil.
My car sat in the original owners garage for 28 years before I bought it.
His brother in law asked to borrow his carb off the car for his Vette. It sat with no carb most of a year. 25 years ago. That was enough.
I also got about 2 pounds of corn nuts and acorns out of the exhaust right under the manifolds.
Forum comidians knicknamed my engine Mighty Mouse at the time.
This was about 6 mos ago. There are pics posted in this forum.
My car sat in the original owners garage for 28 years before I bought it.
His brother in law asked to borrow his carb off the car for his Vette. It sat with no carb most of a year. 25 years ago. That was enough.
I also got about 2 pounds of corn nuts and acorns out of the exhaust right under the manifolds.
Forum comidians knicknamed my engine Mighty Mouse at the time.
This was about 6 mos ago. There are pics posted in this forum.
I like the borescope idea and taking the trans out of the equation. Easy enough to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate. The best penetration oil can be made from ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone. That might free it up if the cylinders aren't rusty. It may take weeks. I have seen a few older engines brought back to life this way without teardown. The odds are against you, but it may work out. Whatever you do, don't force it....but it sounds from your posts that you already know the right technique. Good luck, and keep us posted!
Unbolting the torque converter from the flex plate is not going to be easy if the motor is locked up.
Borescope like FTF said.
How many miles on it and how did it run before it got parked??
Maybe just take off the heads to get the birds eye view into each cylinder.
Engine has about 80k on it and as far as I know ran well when last parked about 30 years ago. Car has always been kept indoors. Kinda figure if I have to pull the intake and then the heads for a look I will pull it first. Car has factory AC, PS, PB so its kind of a crowded engine bay. Oh well!
The old myth (maybe true) was that you could pour Coke in the cylinders and, given enough time, the carbonic acid would eat through any corrosion. So, you wind up with pitting in the cylinder walls and even if it starts you're delaying the inevitable most likely.
If you post your location somebody nearby may have an inspection camera...if near Orlando you'd be welcome to borrow mine. Harbor Freight has them for $70. I use it to inspect frames, hinge pillars, plumbing inside walls, dryer vents and amateur proctology.
Considering that last use, you may not want to borrow mine
Best laugh I've had today!
I shopped some for borescopes and have seen prices from $50 to $500 but had no idea how expensive I would have to go to get one that worked. If your Harbor Freight unit works well I will purchase one. I am in VA so not close. Thanks for the offer on borrowing. By the way I am having a colonoscopy next week. Maybe I can get a two for one price.
For a few more bucks you can get the Aardvark and it works off your smartphone. A longer 'gooseneck' and you can take and keep videos. I've used it to inspect some C1/C2 frames for friends' pre-purchase inspections...
All you guys are great! A bunch of good ideas. I plan on keeping the car in the family and perhaps drive it a couple thousand miles a year. My dad bought the car used in 1969 so it has a lot of sentimental value. My three sons will have to draw straws for it some day. I had someone local suggest the acetone and trans fluid mix so will try it and pick up an inspection scope from Harbor Freight to take a gander inside as well. I have not looked for a local Vette club yet but will shortly. Will keep everyone posted.
For a few more bucks you can get the Aardvark and it works off your smartphone. A longer 'gooseneck' and you can take and keep videos. I've used it to inspect some C1/C2 frames for friends' pre-purchase inspections...
Thanks for the info on the Aardvark. I will check it out before making a decision. Being able to refer to the video later sitting at the kitchen table with a beverage in hand could be handy.
