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If you plan on keeping it, do the smart thing (especially since it's a numbers car) and just rebuild it. This is mine from sitting 30+ years, ran when dad parked it. It's been garage kept since it was parked, but the intake valve was in the open position. The motor was stuck, I was in the same situation you were in, but figured why risk ruining the motor. Pulled it and took it apart at the motor shop to find this...
Piston came out fairly easy with a few light taps with a hammer, but just minor seize and light rust, the block had to go .030 over. Now if i had gotten it free and cranked it over, I could have ruined that cylinder. Which would just add to the rebuild cost.
Here's my brothers from sitting 40+ years
Yes, that's 'mouse food' in there, mice can get anywhere
How do you know that's the smart thing to do when you have no idea why it is stuck? Just curious.
Not here to argue...so please don't get that idea.
If the motor is actually stuck, something is not right. Something has worn, rusted. Can you unstick it with all the above suggestions...sure. Will it run good? maybe Could it have little issues, sure, can the little issues become worse.... see where i'm coming from? I spend way to much of my free time hanging out at the local speed shop helping with motors, and seeing stuff like this all the time. Worse yet, some matching number motors that are sitting in the junk pile, or become money pits to fix the damage caused by running it. It's just my .02 cents
About 40 miles West of DC. Small town called Warrenton. Lived here about 37 years. Pass through Richmond frequently. Planning to stop by Zip's for an exhaust system in a few weeks. Want to avoid the shipping charges. Have you dealt with them?
If you plan on keeping it, do the smart thing (especially since it's a numbers car) and just rebuild it. This is mine from sitting 30+ years, ran when dad parked it. It's been garage kept since it was parked, but the intake valve was in the open position. The motor was stuck, I was in the same situation you were in, but figured why risk ruining the motor. Pulled it and took it apart at the motor shop to find this...
Piston came out fairly easy with a few light taps with a hammer, but just minor seize and light rust, the block had to go .030 over. Now if i had gotten it free and cranked it over, I could have ruined that cylinder. Which would just add to the rebuild cost.
Here's my brothers from sitting 40+ years
Yes, that's 'mouse food' in there, mice can get anywhere
Oh my lord! I can imagine what you said and felt when you found this. I have ordered an inspection scope to take a look in the bores. If I see anything close to your pictures I will definitely pull.
Crackshot, you have made the right decision. Inspect and verify before tearing stuff apart. Water got into PBRmeasap's engine.....yours may not have that issue at all.
About 40 miles West of DC. Small town called Warrenton. Lived here about 37 years. Pass through Richmond frequently. Planning to stop by Zip's for an exhaust system in a few weeks. Want to avoid the shipping charges. Have you dealt with them?
Know of the area. Sorry you aren't closer. I'm across town from ZIP. ZIP is OK. They sell what they have. Most is good repop, you just need to check each item against the original - same with other vendors. I've know them from when Wayne worked out of the station wagon. You'll get good advice reading here on who mfgs good and not so good. The key is who makes it, not who sells it. If you look on line, ZIP tells you if it is in stock or not. Others, not so much. They are easy to get to.
Maybe I didn't use the right words. I agree with GTOguy, they give excellent service.
[QUOTE=PBRmeASAP;1593806838]If you plan on keeping it, do the smart thing (especially since it's a numbers car) and just rebuild it. This is mine from sitting 30+ years, ran when dad parked it. It's been garage kept since it was parked, but the intake valve was in the open position. The motor was stuck, I was in the same situation you were in, but figured why risk ruining the motor. Pulled it and took it apart at the motor shop to find this...
Piston came out fairly easy with a few light taps with a hammer, but just minor seize and light rust, the block had to go .030 over. Now if i had gotten it free and cranked it over, I could have ruined that cylinder. Which would just add to the rebuild cost.
Looks like it was rode hard and put away wet. No way that was running right when it was parked.
O/Ps car may only have some rings stuck to the cylinder walls which is not to hard to free up.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'13-'14,'19-'20-'21-'22
My first post in a number of years......................
In April of last year, I picked up my 62 from a buddy of mine who had a stroke 17 years earlier. Car had not been touched since the event. My buddy had for 34 years, had rebuilt the engine and trans, and had put only 28 miles on the baby. Well motor and clutch were frozen, to say the least. I filled with MMO and waited about a month before starting to work the engine. Following some advice on this forum, I finally got the starter to whirl her over and she finally started after 2 months with MMO. Smoked like crazy in my garage for another 3-4 hours, but she finally settled in. Now shows good compression and has run great for 300+ miles. But still holding my breath.................
I am of the opinion that soaking to get it unstuck is worth a try, as long as the car was stored out of the weather and there are no signs of infestation - it doesn't always work, but often it does. However I will say that for it to work you have to SOAK the piston & ring in the cylinders. You need to get plenty of Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it soak, enough to cover the entire piston. This may mean jacking one side of the car up at a time (remember it's a V engine so it's slanted). IMHO, if you are just spritzing some stuff in there that is just running down the piston and settling at the bottom (and right back out the plug hole on the 2 cylinders that are at or near TDC), then you're not really soaking anything. If you're not making a terrible mess, you're probably not doing it right! Just my $.02.
I've had pretty good luck with Zip. Spent thousands with them last year. About 4 months after buying SS brake lines I went to use them and found they were for non power brake car and I needed lines for power brakes. Zip had no problem exchanging them. Other than that I have never had to return an item. Even their reproduction front springs maintain the proper ride height which I was worried about because most repros sit too high.
bennettrp,, if you have 300 miles on it and it runs fine, you don't need to hold your breath. If it had bad bearings or scored cylinders/stuck rings, you'd know by now. Get out and drive it, and post more often!! Sorry to hear about your friend.
I am of the opinion that soaking to get it unstuck is worth a try, as long as the car was stored out of the weather and there are no signs of infestation - it doesn't always work, but often it does. However I will say that for it to work you have to SOAK the piston & ring in the cylinders. You need to get plenty of Marvel Mystery Oil in there and let it soak, enough to cover the entire piston. This may mean jacking one side of the car up at a time (remember it's a V engine so it's slanted). IMHO, if you are just spritzing some stuff in there that is just running down the piston and settling at the bottom (and right back out the plug hole on the 2 cylinders that are at or near TDC), then you're not really soaking anything. If you're not making a terrible mess, you're probably not doing it right! Just my $.02.
Great idea on jacking car side to side. Thanks much.