Looks like lacquer just like frankies does. I have not had success with a razor blade on more modern paints. I hate using chemical stripper, but sometimes it's the only option.

 

INTERESTING....It is cheap enough to give it a try if I can find it locally because I am not going to get it shipped in when I can get the Aircraft Stripper locally.


As for stripping paint with a single edge razor blade.

First it is always wise to drag the fresh razor blade backwards against your pants or a piece of cardboard to burnish the blade. IMPORTANT STEP!

And then..in the photo below is the type of razor blade scraper I use. Reason being I can bend the handle for inner curves and it holds the blade solid so when i get the correct angle...the paint just comes off..and it also reduces hand fatigue. It is a folding scraper where the razor blade portion gets stored in the handle.




DUB

 

PPG Concept single-stage

 

Glad you removed that poor quality paint. What did they repaint it with?

 

Make no mistake - my car might have had large sections done with a razor but that won't get into the tight corners of a 63's faux air scoops on the fender and behind the "B" pillar nor is it the best for the hood grille depressions.

So, yes, stripper was used on the tighter areas. My concern was that the belt-line ridges and other protrusions maintain their sharp, crisp look. I'm always afraid the shop dufus with a media blaster will pommel the car into a round blob....but I'm sure there are good, safe ways to do it.

As to paint I went with the body shop's recommendation - I trust them but want no crying about mis-matched products if warranty work is needed. I'm a big fan of "one neck, one noose" in such matters. I don't want to get into paint product wars on here but I examined several cars (including a Daytona Blue 64) done with the paint -- all were spectacular.

It is a single-stage paint and laid down beautifully. It dulled down in the door jambs and hood lip and looks like those areas would sail by judging.

 

That is a single stage paint, right?

 

You can get free shipping from Summit if you order $100.00 or more in parts. However, it appears Walmart offers it as well and i believe if you order it to your local store(if it is not available in store), the shipping is free.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/RUST-OLEU...&wl13=&veh=sem

 

Yessir.

It also had adhesion problems (hence the bubbles) so maybe it was more amenable to the razor blade technique.

I wasn't sorry to see it go...it was actually the wrong hue of Riverside Red. A VERY subtle nuance but off a wee bit just the same

 

Nope. Dupont ChromaBase is a BC/CC system. Hence the "Base".

 

I stand corrected, the car was done in Concept single stage....dug out the old can to be positive.

Chromabase was on another of my classics.

Prior post edited...
The paint wasn't the problem....the prep was bad...when the paint "lifted" bubbled, it actually had primer on the backside...

 

I bet that acrylic urethane was not cheap, and would love to know where your problem was with the adhesion. I wonder if the primer was sanded well enough before top coat. I feel for you to have to go to all this work because somebody did not do their job right but that seems typical in today's world with most everything and they all want big $$$ for what you get.

 

We have a winner...
We found some gnarly prep where the paint bubbles appeared (duh!)...
on both doors, down the stinger and around the rear windows...stuff you could dig out with a fingernail...

Which is why the car was taken down to bare glass and bonding strips (last 3 pics). Per the topic, whatEVER stripping method you used don't half-*** it

 

I wondered where you went. I can't believe a fireman "burnt a bridge".

 

I do the exact same thing. In the tight ares I know not to nick teh heck out of the body and use chemical stripper. I do sandblast some areas BUT I know how to do it without me having to spend time fixing what I damaged.

Just what I have seen in the past and what I noticed. I have seen these new age body fillers that are 'lightweight' and airy.... seem to fail and are not as solid as what I use.....kinda like priming on a sponge...so-to-speak.

so.....not wanting to stir up anything here...and just an observation....but in Frankies photo ( post#30---third photo)where he peeled the paint back on the passenger door...and then later a photo is posted (post#32---second photo) showing that there was a body filler in the same exact spot....causes me concern.

Knowing that the car is fixed and many speculations on what caused the initial problem to cause him to repaint the car...I can say that is why is stick with what I use to fix these Corvettes...and if others have great success using other body fillers that what I use...I am truly glad for them...but as like Frankie stated...it was bad prep....and in my book...anything applied to the bare fiberglass is a part of prep.

I know that more than likely every area that was bad on Frankies car may or may not have had that type of filler at the point of failure...but that still doe not dismiss it as being one of the things that failed.

The last two photos in post #32 show how a Corvette should look when stripped Other than some fine details I can see....which are no big deal and would be taken care of the further the car was prepped for bodywork.

I always love seeing them stripped like that because for me it is like a blank canvas waiting on me to do what I need to do to get it really right.

DUB

 

Also not trying to stir up anything, but since we are so far off topic anyway at this point....Frankie, are they going to remove the original bonding adhesive and back fill with new filler or leave as is? From what I have learned the hard way, it is best to dig out all of the bonding adhesive from the seams, then fill with Evercoat 870. I'd let it cure for two weeks, then sand and seal with a high quality epoxy primer. If you don't want seams that show up later or in sunlight, that is my recommendation.

Correction to original post....evercoat 870.

 

I simply can't say often enough that Burke's Corvettes has done a stellar job. Tim (the owner) is the only one who does the delicate stuff on my car... He actually argued me out of some shortcuts because I wanted the car back sooner. Between us we've scrounged, repaired, begged and did "comshaw" (for you Navy types) to get original parts from all over. From finding original 63 date coded one-year-only horns to saving the fiberglass headlight buckets to finding an original radiator support core and nose support rods (thanks Mike C for those last two!). An original 63 hood with the correct number of blocks (which is zero) for my VIN was shipped from Texas. An original headlight header bar that Tim told me I didn't really want to know where he got it.

The car will never be a 'no hit' car (we discovered it never was -- but that's another story) but it'll be a stunner.

Sadly, I think I won't be driving it as much as I did before and in more restricted venues. I won't relive this little piece of hell...

I will wait to see about the magazine article before posting my experience with NCM Insurance... In one line:

I couldn't have asked for a better insurance company.

 

All I use is the Evercoat Vette Panel Adhesive (pt# 100870 quart or pt#100880 gallon)

What I apply on top of VPA may be different than what other people use often times....depending if it is an SMC body car or polyester fiberglas body car.

I also allow the VPA to cure prior to applying any spray-able product on it. Either I put the body out in the sun and get it HOT or I also use my infrared heat lamps and cure it and get it hotter than the sun can get it...and I do that also when I laminate mat and resin whenever possible on my laminations depending on their location.

DUB